Calling All "Vintage" Integrated/Receiver Owners
Jan 31, 2012 at 8:12 PM Post #4,006 of 19,145


Quote:
Are there any sound quality difference for a can in different volume levels? (Some Akers claim that some speakers sound good at low level, but I think speakers are more space depending.)



Humans perceive different frequencies that are the same loudness to be different volumes. That didn't come out clearly...
 
For example, if you play a 4000 Hz tone and a 40 Hz tone both at 80dB, the 4000 Hz tone will be perceived as being louder.
 
This is why bass sounds better when music is played loud, and the bass seems to disappear when music is quiet. It's also why so many people are damaging their hearing today...
 
Jan 31, 2012 at 9:23 PM Post #4,007 of 19,145

 
Quote:
You really like neutral sound! How do you compare SX-1010 to your Marantz (2285?)?  I know you like your Marantz also. What's difference between these two warm sound receivers to you?
 


The Marantz is indeed quite warm.  Maybe even warmer than the SX-1010.  But it has a very musical nature.  I like the 2285, the SX-1010, and the Sansui 9090DB all about equally, and I like the SX-1250 just a little more, and the SX-1980 best of all.
 
 
 
Jan 31, 2012 at 9:47 PM Post #4,008 of 19,145
Hmm, I'm wondering if the replacement caps are coloring the sound. Warm is the last word I would use to describe the 1010 I had. I found it to be a shade warmer than neutral. But much closer to being classified as neutral than warm. It was nothing like my marantz and not even as warm as the kenwood 9600 I had which was just a little warm as well. It actually was a little analytical with my he-6.
 
Jan 31, 2012 at 10:50 PM Post #4,009 of 19,145


Quote:
With closed headphones there are, but from my experience its not that noticeable.

Quote:
Humans perceive different frequencies that are the same loudness to be different volumes. That didn't come out clearly...
 
For example, if you play a 4000 Hz tone and a 40 Hz tone both at 80dB, the 4000 Hz tone will be perceived as being louder.
 
This is why bass sounds better when music is played loud, and the bass seems to disappear when music is quiet. It's also why so many people are damaging their hearing today...


That's good to know! Well, I will stick to my listening level. I don't want to damage my hearing just for bass.
wink.gif

 

 
Quote:
 

The Marantz is indeed quite warm.  Maybe even warmer than the SX-1010.  But it has a very musical nature.  I like the 2285, the SX-1010, and the Sansui 9090DB all about equally, and I like the SX-1250 just a little more, and the SX-1980 best of all.
 
 


That's what I call a Pioneer fanboy!!
beyersmile.png

 
Quote:
Hmm, I'm wondering if the replacement caps are coloring the sound. Warm is the last word I would use to describe the 1010 I had. I found it to be a shade warmer than neutral. But much closer to being classified as neutral than warm. It was nothing like my marantz and not even as warm as the kenwood 9600 I had which was just a little warm as well. It actually was a little analytical with my he-6.

Yes, I will agree with you mostly . Skylab is talking warm comparing to 1250 and 1980. IMHO, the typical brand list form warm to neutral is: Marantz=or >HK>Sansui=or>Kenwood>Pioneer=Yamaha (as same time lines). Of course, early models are warmer than late model as same brand. Yamaha seems no change in models. I just don't know why Kenwood is not hunted by member here, they sound damn good!!
 
 
 
Jan 31, 2012 at 11:12 PM Post #4,010 of 19,145
With output impedance ratings that are all over the map, I'm amazed that anyone can make consistent observations.
 
Matching one of these beasts with a modern headphone and getting predictable results (satisfactory results would be too much to hope for) must involve some degree of mystical arcana and blind luck.
 
On the bright side, they do look bitchin !  
wink.gif

 
Jan 31, 2012 at 11:42 PM Post #4,011 of 19,145


Quote:
 
Yes, I will agree with you mostly . Skylab is talking warm comparing to 1250 and 1980. IMHO, the typical brand list form warm to neutral is: Marantz=or >HK>Sansui=or>Kenwood>Pioneer=Yamaha (as same time lines). Of course, early models are warmer than late model as same brand. Yamaha seems no change in models. I just don't know why Kenwood is not hunted by member here, they sound damn good!!
 
 


Pretty much follow my experience with the vintage gear I've owned. My sansui is warm, but not as warm as the  marantz. But much warmer than the kenwood which was slightly warmer than the 1010. But even with using the modern amps I've own or heard, I would still say the 1010 I had was much closer to neutral than warm. It's even bright sounding compared to some of the modern headphone and speaker amps I've listened to. But mine was stock and a lightly used mint piece. So I could see the sound changing with a recap.
 
I would have liked a little more warmness from mine which ultimately was one of the reasons I got rid of it. So I might prefer the one Skylab has to the one I had(if they do indeed sound different, but maybe not). But still a great sounding receiver and one of my favorites. Well I could say that about all of them. As different as they all sounded the one thing they all had in common was great sound. I've just been having so much fun going from one to the other and finding some really good gems along the way. I could never afford to go through as many modern amps as I have with these.
 
 
Feb 1, 2012 at 12:55 PM Post #4,012 of 19,145


Quote:
 
Yes, I will agree with you mostly . Skylab is talking warm comparing to 1250 and 1980. IMHO, the typical brand list form warm to neutral is: Marantz=or >HK>Sansui=or>Kenwood>Pioneer=Yamaha (as same time lines). Of course, early models are warmer than late model as same brand. Yamaha seems no change in models. I just don't know why Kenwood is not hunted by member here, they sound damn good!!
 
 


Right!  I agree with that.  Of my own receivers, from warm to neutral:  Marantz 2285 > Sansui 9090DB > Pioneer SX-1010 > SX1250 = SX-1980
 
 
Feb 1, 2012 at 12:57 PM Post #4,013 of 19,145
my pioneer is starting to cut out on the left channel.
it gets quiet and staticy.
at first it was only if using the aux input.
but now its with the tape in as well.
 
where would one start to research or find info about what could be wrong?
 
Feb 1, 2012 at 1:30 PM Post #4,014 of 19,145
You need to deoxit all the switches and pots.  It's hopefully just that.
 
Feb 1, 2012 at 2:19 PM Post #4,016 of 19,145
the one pot or switch i suspected was the actual power on/speaker selector pot.
it gets scratchy when switcher from speaker a to speaker b to a+b to off.
 
 
Feb 1, 2012 at 2:42 PM Post #4,017 of 19,145
Power off, unplug, wait overnight, and then open it up, spray deoxit, and work each control multiple times immediately upon spraying it.  Then move on to the next one.
 
Feb 1, 2012 at 3:15 PM Post #4,018 of 19,145
does a place like Ace or home depot carry deoxit?
or would i be better off just ordering it online?
 

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