[jerick70]

@Heavyboxer one thing that you said earlier about your computer being "jittery" has me wondering if you have an issue somewhere in your system. It's possible it's the power supply not being powerful enough. But it could be many other things.

 

[gLer]

@Heavyboxer one thing that you said earlier about your computer being "jittery" has me wondering if you have an issue somewhere in your system. It's possible it's the power supply not being powerful enough. But it could be many other things.

@Heavyboxer are you running other tasks at the same time as listening to music? Even on my 3.4Ghz quad core i7 iMac with 32GB RAM I still have glitches if I try listen to high-res or upsampled music while doing some heavy lifting (photo or video editing). Which is why I just switched over to a dedicated Mac mini music server that does nothing else but process music.

 

[Heavyboxer]

@Heavyboxer one thing that you said earlier about your computer being "jittery" has me wondering if you have an issue somewhere in your system. It's possible it's the power supply not being powerful enough. But it could be many other things.

@Heavyboxer are you running other tasks at the same time as listening to music? Even on my 3.4Ghz quad core i7 iMac with 32GB RAM I still have glitches if I try listen to high-res or upsampled music while doing some heavy lifting (photo or video editing). Which is why I just switched over to a dedicated Mac mini music server that does nothing else but process music.

Thanks for all the troubleshooting.

I'll look into upgrading my power supply to perhaps a 800w (if I can fit the darn thing in my micro case) when I'm back from my business trip in 2 weeks.

As for jitters, it happens quite a bit when playing Assassin's Creed Origins on full/max resolution. My bluetooth keyboard/mouse started to cut out too, so changed to wired peripherals since and it seems alright.. but game still sometimes freezes for 3~5 seconds, then all is normal again. (PC temps show acceptable levels)
FYI, I did not overclock my PC, as the room got super hot in summer, and will push for 5Ghz after a month when it gets chilly. (I have tried it, and seems to hit 5Ghz easy using the stock Asus 5Ghz overclock profile)

That being said, when its time to listen to music with my R-28, I lay back in my chair, legs on the table, eyes closed... there is hardly anything else going on in the background.(well, except Bitlord for those hard to get shows over here)

 

[wietschebehr]

Lemme see now...



CPU : coffeelake i5 8600k
Cooler: corsair H80 v2 water AIO
M board : Asus strix z370-i
RAM : 32Gb 3xxx (upgraded from 2× 8Gb 2400Mhz)
VGA : MSI 1070Ti gaming D5 8Gb
HDD: Nvme samsung 1Tb x 2 (started off as a single 512Gb but quickly ran out of space)
Power: Corsair tx550 gold
Case : Fractal Node 304

I usually use a PC for about 6~7 years, so i try to maximize as much as I can when I buy a system. My weak link is my monitor, a cheap $300 32" that was plenty for me previously... but I can see tearing sometimes and I might just get that changed too at a later time.

I am a regular Foobar2000 user. Assuming that you were only busy figuring out the R28 and fixing the sound and not doing anything else in the background with the GPU, that PC used very little power to do what you were trying to do. Its not the PSU. Although, I do agree with previous comments, get a 700w+ PSU, and see if you can get a very low electrical noise power supply. I run a 1080ti with the rest almost exact spec as yours, but with a 750W PSU.

It is definetely a software issue you have there. Foobar is very powerfull if you can wield it properly and customize everything, including the looks, to your liking. Else, rather stay away and use the suggested alternative players. You can follow the very good guides here and try one last time to get Foobar2000 to work:
https://diyaudioheaven.wordpress.com/digital/pc-software/

But then I suggest looking at your drivers, connections, OS settings and music player to find the issue. I am using a Raspberry Pi to play DSD to my DAC and the NFB1 amp with zero issues, and the Pi CPU does not even break a sweat. Its not your hardware (if all parts are in working order and not something wrong with). You can test it very easily by just removing the GPU and other "useless" hardware temporarily and just play music to your DAC. I predict you will have exactly the same issues. If not.. well, let hope this is not the case..

When using optical you must limit the sample rate to 96khz in the software and give it exclusive access to your Amenero audio device. In some cases 192khz work, but the official rating is 96khz. I reccommend USB if you don't have power noise issues, and like it was suggested, use USB2. USB3 can be very noisy. I myself use optical sometimes but that is because my tube amplifier picks up serious noise from my PC when I make any electrical connection to my PC. And then I get all the symptoms you get if I don't put in that 96khz cap and downsample everyting higher than that. I actually also upsample to 96khz to simplify things as I found no difference in sound quality otherwise and because for some bizarre reason my motherboard optical out can't produce 88.2khz, but everything else below 96khz in multiples of 44.1 and 48 has no issue. In your case with Windows set to a fixed 96khz and using Windows Media Player that uses Direct Sound, and it works 100%, its indicating even more towards your player settings.

I want to suggest an unconventional alternative playing method, just to test your R28, if you are willing. If you have an Android phone, get the USB Audio Player Pro app and get a USB OTG cable for your phone and plug your DAC directly into the phone USB port via the OTG cable. Play some music and have a listen how good it actually sounds. This method uses the DAC exclusively and you don't have to install drivers. A good check. But if you are not comfortable with this just ignore the suggestion.

Hope this helps. Not trying to upset the other guys that tried to help, just giving my opinion and view on where to focus to solve this.

Cherrs,
W

 

[vica1]

R 28 with clear cover and jumpers replaced for push buttons

 

[Heavyboxer]

R 28 with clear cover and jumpers replaced for push buttons

Very clean & cleverly done!

 

[alota]

R 28 with clear cover and jumpers replaced for push buttons

WOW! you made this work?

 

[gLer]

R 28 with clear cover and jumpers replaced for push buttons

That’s awesome! Can you clue us in on how you made the clear cover, and also the jumper replacements?

 

[FinBenton]

That looks amazing allthough someone in china is probably having a heart attack when its not fully shielded

 

[vica1]

Thank you guys. Cover is 2mm plexi glass, cut out with laser. Jumpers are not totally replaced, but only connected with cable to the push buttons.

 

[gLer]

Thank you guys. Cover is 2mm plexi glass, cut out with laser. Jumpers are not totally replaced, but only connected with cable to the push buttons.

You should cost it and offer it as an upgrade kit for R-28 owners (pre-cut plexiglass top, jumpers/cables/push buttons).

 

[gLer]

That looks amazing allthough someone in china is probably having a heart attack when its not fully shielded

Is plexiglass a bad idea compared to the aluminium top?

 

[Heavyboxer]

You should cost it and offer it as an upgrade kit for R-28 owners (pre-cut plexiglass top, jumpers/cables/push buttons).

I'd buy a kit pronto.

 

[FinBenton]

Is plexiglass a bad idea compared to the aluminium top?

I dont think it will make any difference in most listening environments but yes ofc grounded metal shielding around electronic components is technically better.

 

[jerick70]

Thank you guys. Cover is 2mm plexi glass, cut out with laser. Jumpers are not totally replaced, but only connected with cable to the push buttons.

If buy a mod kit if you offered it. Very cool.