Audio-gd Phoenix balanced headphone amp.
Apr 30, 2010 at 3:04 PM Post #2,717 of 3,352
Quote:

Originally Posted by SoupRKnowva /img/forum/go_quote.gif
hey Peete, would you be willing to write down a list of quantities and sizes for all the new capacitors you bought to replace the ones in the Phoenix? just to use as a parts list for someone not quite a technically inclined as yourself? And i know you used larger sizes in the PSU section for more filtering, but are you going to keep the sizes the same in the amp section of the unit? Also i was curious about gauges and lengths of wire that you used in the rewire of the whole thing as well. or do you think that it would be ok to use all one gauge, like 24 or 26 awg? im fairly partial to the SCSCag wire that cryparts has which only comes in those 2 sizes, which is around 10 bucks a foot. Do you think i should just stick with the mundorf like you used?

Im just curious because i think that ive finally decided that i want one of these beasts, and i like what you've done with your mods, so im going to contact Kingwa about me sending all the parts and just having it built with the new caps and wire in it already :D and since i dont have one i cant go look for myself. also need to discuss having a lower gain put in for my jh-13's

thanks ahead of time, i dont think im the only one in the thread that appreciates what you've done.



Quote:

Originally Posted by lmswjm /img/forum/go_quote.gif
X2


Looks like a Photo annotated write up like the Franken-Zero is being called for!
 
Apr 30, 2010 at 5:54 PM Post #2,718 of 3,352
Curra and I were chatting about the mods (Phoenix and RE1),parts list last weekend so he suggested a spread sheet to list all of what I have done and plan to do in the coming weeks (sizes, values etc). Everything needed to bring the units up to the latest rev (Max mod I call it) if others wish to follow suit.

I'll let you guys know when the Phoenix sheet is ready. Should be sometime this weekend.
smily_headphones1.gif


Peete.


EDIT: It's done ! PM me with your email address if you want the Phoenix BOM pdf.
smily_headphones1.gif
 
Apr 30, 2010 at 7:18 PM Post #2,719 of 3,352
Quote:

Originally Posted by Pricklely Peete /img/forum/go_quote.gif
Curra and I were chatting about the mods (Phoenix and RE1),parts list last weekend so he suggested a spread sheet to list all of what I have done and plan to do in the coming weeks (sizes, values etc). Everything needed to bring the units up to the latest rev (Max mod I call it) if others wish to follow suit.

I'll let you guys know when the Phoenix sheet is ready. Should be sometime this weekend. :)

Peete.


EDIT: It's done ! PM me with your email address if you want the Phoenix BOM pdf. :)



haha i shoulda known you would be ahead of me on that one peete :)

so how do you feel about the wire thing i was talking about?
 
Apr 30, 2010 at 8:38 PM Post #2,720 of 3,352
Quote:

Originally Posted by SoupRKnowva /img/forum/go_quote.gif
haha i shoulda known you would be ahead of me on that one peete :)

so how do you feel about the wire thing i was talking about?



24 awg is a good size for the back panel I/O but I would go with regular 5N solid silver 22 awg or bigger for the DC lines (internal and cables).

10 bucks a foot seems a little steep ...the Mundorf stuff is 4.20 a foot (24 awg) while the 5N 22 awg silver is around the same range (under 5 bucks a foot).

The pdf BOM has everything listed but no instructions.

Cap sizes in the amp section will not change for the smaller caps used (100uf Nover replaced with Nichicon 100uf 25V KZ MUSE ) but the 5 larger caps (4 in the head-amp section, 1 near the acss stages) are swapped out for 2200uf 25V and 1 2200uf 35V Nichicon FG (fine gold). It's easier to explain if you are familiar with the internal layout.

Peete.
 
Apr 30, 2010 at 8:59 PM Post #2,721 of 3,352
Quote:

Originally Posted by Pricklely Peete /img/forum/go_quote.gif
24 awg is a good size for the back panel I/O but I would go with regular 5N solid silver 22 awg or bigger for the DC lines (internal and cables).

10 bucks a foot seems a little steep ...the Mundorf stuff is 4.20 a foot (24 awg) while the 5N 22 awg silver is around the same range (under 5 bucks a foot).

The pdf BOM has everything listed but no instructions.

Cap sizes in the amp section will not change for the smaller caps used (100uf Nover replaced with Nichicon 100uf 25V KZ MUSE ) but the 5 larger caps (4 in the head-amp section, 1 near the acss stages) are swapped out for 2200uf 25V and 1 2200uf 35V Nichicon FG (fine gold). It's easier to explain if you are familiar with the internal layout.

Peete.



No pichures with foolproof instructions!
 
Apr 30, 2010 at 9:03 PM Post #2,722 of 3,352
Quote:

Originally Posted by Pricklely Peete /img/forum/go_quote.gif
24 awg is a good size for the back panel I/O but I would go with regular 5N solid silver 22 awg or bigger for the DC lines (internal and cables).

10 bucks a foot seems a little steep ...the Mundorf stuff is 4.20 a foot (24 awg) while the 5N 22 awg silver is around the same range (under 5 bucks a foot).

The pdf BOM has everything listed but no instructions.

Cap sizes in the amp section will not change for the smaller caps used (100uf Nover replaced with Nichicon 100uf 25V KZ MUSE ) but the 5 larger caps (4 in the head-amp section, 1 near the acss stages) are swapped out for 2200uf 25V and 1 2200uf 35V Nichicon FG (fine gold). It's easier to explain if you are familiar with the internal layout.

Peete.



oh got ya, i think then that ill just stick with the mundorf you used since it doesnt cost too much, and you say it sounds good. And ill probably buy and extra 25% of everything in case its bad or they screw something up while building it, and have them throw anything extra back in the box when they ship it too me.

and again thanks for all the effort you put into this peete :D

Edit: and you havent actually done the cap upgrades in the amp portion yet right? might wait to see how much awesomer it gets with those :wink:

Edit2: i guess its just because i dont really know anything about electronics, but are the bypass caps mandatory? does it have those to begin with? and the caps that were bad in the first 10 units, would you not recommend using better versions of those anyways? even though the new ones kingwa is using are good? Sorry for all the questions, i jsut want to know whats up before i order anything :redface:
 
Apr 30, 2010 at 9:17 PM Post #2,723 of 3,352
Quote:

Originally Posted by SoupRKnowva /img/forum/go_quote.gif
oh got ya, i think then that ill just stick with the mundorf you used since it doesnt cost too much, and you say it sounds good. And ill probably buy and extra 25% of everything in case its bad or they screw something up while building it, and have them throw anything extra back in the box when they ship it too me.

and again thanks for all the effort you put into this peete :D

Edit: and you havent actually done the cap upgrades in the amp portion yet right? might wait to see how much awesomer it gets with those :wink:



Correct...I haven't completed the amp section yet but I plan on it very soon. I have no idea what the amp section mod should add but I think it's reasonable to expect a small increase in refinement. I'll leave it at that until I can evaluate it first hand :)

Peete.
 
May 5, 2010 at 11:53 PM Post #2,725 of 3,352
You might as well get the Phoenix if you have the HD800.
 
May 6, 2010 at 2:20 PM Post #2,726 of 3,352


 
Quote:
You might as well get the Phoenix if you have the HD800.



Do you really think the Phoenix would work well with the HD800?  I would like to try the HD800 balanced, but I wonder if the Phoenix will work best with the HD800.  (I already have balanced cables for the HD800.)  In SE my HD800s work very well with the Corda Opera which is know as a warm amp.  Unless I have misread, most reviewers feel the Phoenix is completely transparent, maybe even a tiny (very tiny) bit thin.  I am guessing my T1s would work great with the Phoenix, but I am reluctant to reterminate my cable which is more difficult with the T1 than the HD800. 
 
May 6, 2010 at 10:13 PM Post #2,728 of 3,352
When I heard phoenix + hd800 + dhc complement ... was the first time I had that bass! My tube amp in singleend is not able to give that bass ...
I should get my phoenix next week. I will be able to tell more ...
 
May 6, 2010 at 10:36 PM Post #2,729 of 3,352

 
Quote:
 


Do you really think the Phoenix would work well with the HD800?  I would like to try the HD800 balanced, but I wonder if the Phoenix will work best with the HD800.  (I already have balanced cables for the HD800.)  In SE my HD800s work very well with the Corda Opera which is know as a warm amp.  Unless I have misread, most reviewers feel the Phoenix is completely transparent, maybe even a tiny (very tiny) bit thin.  I am guessing my T1s would work great with the Phoenix, but I am reluctant to reterminate my cable which is more difficult with the T1 than the HD800. 


The HD800 + Phoenix combo is a great one and I base my opinion on others and on mine. Thanks Pompon for letting me try your HD800 on my Phoenix at Salon Son & Image.
smile_phones.gif

 
May 8, 2010 at 12:09 PM Post #2,730 of 3,352
So has anyone used the phoenix balanced in to balanced out with a IEM? Im not worried about noise, but about how much volume control ill be getting. jh-13's are 28 ohms with 119db/w. In the thread some people mentioned with denons the were only able to use like the first ten steps.
 
And another question, why if the amp has a built in phase splitter would the gain only be 50% when using single ended input? all 4 channels would still be being used. I understand if you're using single ended output why that would change.
 

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