Audio GD NFB-11.28 vs R2R 11

I'm glad you're enjoying it! I'm lucky that my R2R-11 pairs well with my Eikons, LCD-2Cs and my AFC. Pretty much reached my end game haha.

 

Excuse me, off ropic.

Are the Eikons worth their price over the lcd-2cs? They look so high-end and high-valued even at that price. They have grabbed my attention. Which headphone set is your most often used?

 

After reading most of the posts in this thread, I thought I would share my experience. I ended up ordering the NFB-11.28 for a bedroom setup, primarily for TV listening on headphones, and some music listening. Currently I have an old Audio-GD Sparrow > HD598se headphones that I use, but I'm giving it to my GF, hence the new purchase. I thought that since it was more for TV and Movies, that the crisper NFB would be the better choice.

Well I received it a couple of days ago, hooked it up to the TV's optical output that i have been using to the Sparrow, and it worked great, and provided a much more 3D/layered sound, which was terrific. But, sadly the next day, it started to cut out every 2 seconds. Tried restarting everything, different cable, moving it closer to the TV using a shorter cable to see if the long cable was the issue, but no luck. It would work perfect with a CD player optical out, and coax worked great from both the CD player, and the Schiit Eitr from my laptop.

So after trying everything I could think of, and all Kingwa could recommend, I'm sending it back, and exchanging it for the R2R 11. Apparantly the ESS chip can be sensitive to optical signals. Not sure exactly how or why, but we're hoping the R2R will function fine with my TV's optical out. /crossing fingers.

So, even though I had already joined to team of this thread title, I'll actually be getting the version everyone seems to prefer, and I'll share my opinions of it after some break in time. I'll be able to compare it to my Office desktop setup, which is a Schiit Eiter > Bifrost Multibit > Valhalla 2 > Senn HD600 & Hd650's.

If for some reason the R2R 11 dislikes optical, look for it to be listed for sale here, at a discount. Though I truly hope it works great!!

I apologize if I rambled a bit.
Shel

 

I did try mine with an airport express and had no issue. So you should be fine. It is good to use a toslink made out of glass. Transmission is usually better with them. But i used a plastic one and it was fine. Some cable won't work with the r2r 11 (or nfb-11.28) cause the toslink connector in a bit recessed. Some of my cables would not clamp properly,

 

To me they are a tier above the LCD-2C but compliment it well because of how close to reference and tonally correct the headphones are. They are extremely detailed, have great separation, have really good sub-bass/bass extension and quite a decent soundstage for being a closed back but they respond more like a semi-open pair of headphones so there is a small amount of sound leak out of them.

Usually I grab the Eikons first but they can get quite fatiguing because of how much detail they have so eventually I'd switch over. They sound amazing with every genre hence why I could never buy the HE-560s. I didn't pay full price for mine, I got it at B-stock Atticus pricing so for me it was even more worth it considering this headphone is on the same tier as the HD800s, Clear and other TOTL priced headphones. No headphone is gonna give you double the performance for twice the price so you kinda just gotta let yourself be wowed rather than try and critically find all the little details every second. Definitely at my end game.

 

Disclaimer, I do not believe that I have golden ears, or anything close to it, I just enjoy various music.

I have an NFB-12.1 and just received my NFB R2R-11 a few days and have left it on playing music since then. I cannot tell a difference between them, sound/tonal quality wise. This is using the R2R-11 in the stock "Neutral" setting and 12.1 with settings on the unit on OS 8, and Filter 2, using 44/16 flac files as well as spotify premium, all on windows 10 being driven through Coax on the R2R-11 and optical on the 12.1 from an ASUS Xonar DG soundcard through ASIO with fidelify and foobar2000.

I have a little AV switcher connected to both amps which is connected to my Aeon Flow Open headphones, no tuning filter used in the Aeons for this. Connecting it this way allows me to volume match, by ear, to the best of my ability and switch back and forth immediately between the 2 amps as they play the same song at the same time.

The biggest or at least noticeable difference, even without quick A/B switching is using the "Warm" jumper setting on the R2R-11. This, to my ears, rolls off the treble a little and raises the low end a little, it seems to make everything sound a little fuller. Again, nothing crazy, just a slight change

Since I enjoy a non-fatiguing sound, I think I will keep the R2R-11 and leave it on the "Warm" setting.

That's my experience, I'll do some more listening/comparing over the weekend.

 

I decided to add an aftermarket power cable to the Audio GD R2R-11.
This was the first time I have poked my head down this rabbit hole,but to my ears it makes a pretty significant improvement,most noticeably in the mids,separation and bass.

Its not a night vs. day difference and I still feel it sounds fine without a 14awg power cable but for a relatively small investment I think its worth it.

 

I still cannot believe that a power cable would change/improve the sound...
With Eitr it does (which I didn't believe also) as there the data flow is improved...but with electricity/power supply???

 

Feel free to disbelieve after you try one. You can return it if you do not like it.
Without being specialist in the matter I think it is the good shielding that counts and in both directions, also protecting the usb/rca cables from leakage from the mains.
Again, I accept the opposite point of view and would not like to argue over this topic.

 

I also run the Eitr in my system and bought that on a whim,and like you wasnt expecting much,and knew if it did nothing I could sell it for little loss rather quickly.Of course as you know the Eitr helped quite a bit. Same goes for this power cable.for $35.00,its a no-brainer,and if all else fails and you dont hear a difference send it back to Amazon.Im guessing after you hear the difference you wont send it back.

Just trying to help.If youre a non-believer,thats cool too.I have no vested interest in trying to sell cables.

 

ok thanks I will think about it. But I have a question: If I have such a cable do I need to plug it also in a separate power supply? Because I don't have enough in the wall. I currently use power strip to power PC, Eitr, NFB, R2R etc. Does this cable make sense with a power strip or do you also have to plug it into a single wall socket?
Thanks!

 

I use it from the same strip also, like you I do not have separate sockets.

 

Same.Plugging it into a power bar that my vintage receivers,Eitr,tube amp are also plugged into,nothing high end.

 

Ok regarding Eitr: here you use the provided power cable?

 

Could you guys show me link to an EU version of one of those supposedly better power cables. I seem to only find US versions when I search for something similar to the ones you're mentioning here.