it is stated on their site that a resistor just needs to be soldered on, i emailed King-wa about it and he said they will post instructions on the site soon on how to do it. He also said to ask for the resistor when ordering the DI DSP and they will send me one.
Well i Sold My PSU, that was quick!. Got a maxed out order now: New DI-DSP (both clocks upgraded) and the New DI-PSU. came to $328 US shipped to Canada.
Well i Sold My PSU, that was quick!. Got a maxed out order now: New DI-DSP (both clocks upgraded) and the New DI-PSU. came to $328 US shipped to Canada.
i dont know for sure if i could even hear the difference, however i like having the peice of mind that the usb to coax convertor is not the weak link in my system.
I mainly wanted the new version for the A-sync 24/192 over USB as that is relatively unheard else ware right now.
The ability to play with upsampling just by changing driver settings is also very appealing to me, compared to changing jumper pins in the old DI.
plus the Digital Interface is relatively cheap compared to the audiophilleo models, at $579 and $949!!!
I think Kingwa answers that question in his FAQ - from memory he says that it is not a huge difference, and that it depends on the quality of the power coming out the USB ports of your computer. With the DI version 1 I dound it very very difficult to tell the difference and I don't think I would have passed a blind test. You can always try the DI v2 and then buy the PSU if you think there is room for improvement later.
i dont know for sure if i could even hear the difference, however i like having the peice of mind that the usb to coax convertor is not the weak link in my system.
I mainly wanted the new version for the A-sync 24/192 over USB as that is relatively unheard else ware right now.
The ability to play with upsampling just by changing driver settings is also very appealing to me, compared to changing jumper pins in the old DI.
plus the Digital Interface is relatively cheap compared to the audiophilleo models, at $579 and $949!!!
Considering how small differences in transports are meant to be (unless your DAC has pretty poor digital input design) I don't think it's wise to spend big on transports. But if you do have a system that you are not considering changing, then transport can be moderately effective upgrade. I do like the I2S feature also.
Please..............believe me, using battery to drive the old DI makes a day and night difference. This is why John Kennedy modded hiface is a huge success and now audiophilleo has using almost the same philosophy to build the new power pack. According to some reviews, the PSU does not make a large improvement and I did not buy it. (Kingwa, please forgive me, I love your products).
IMHO, PSU is a bit pricey and not as simple as battery. You might need to match it with a good quality power cable to sound good and a good quality power cable cost a lot.
Can you give us some information on how to use a battery to drive the DI?
I can atest that using the PSU to power my Olimex USB Isolator, using a good DIY power cord I've made and the Teralink DC Copper Cable, the improvements compared to using the PSU to feed the DI are big, the biggest being the expansive soundstage.
I've tried this 2 days ago to confirm that I have the same opinion now than when I used this combo the very first time.
Has anyone actually found a suitable battery like the one here?
I've found some suitable 7.4V batteries for reasonable prices (around $30 for 6600mAh -- good for all day) but they all seem to have bare wire ends and I have not seen a single one with built-in barrel connectors of the pictured battery. I also noticed the battery shown has the wrong voltage and when I asked where to find suitable batteries, Kingwa didn't have much help to offer since he was finding them through some Chinese site. He also said they couldn't sell them direct because EMS/DHL have issues shipping batteries overseas.
also the question is - how to control battery charge.
as i remember, batteries drop voltage when losing charge
without any indicators i might forget to recharge it, anyone might. and WILL FORGET sooner or later.
and giving too low voltage to the DI might harm it, right?
To answer kr0gg above: as long as you buy batteries that say they have "PCB" or a "protection control module/PCM" or some variant thereof, you should not have to worry about undercharging the batteries. From what I've seen, most of these PCMs trigger a cutoff when voltage reaches 5V, which is still within the DI's input parameters. That is probably why Kingwa insists on 7.4V and not something like 6V. You're not going to find any inexpensive batteries with a charge indicator or anything, so you'll just have to wait til it stops working or periodically recharge (not a problem with Li-Ion since there's no memory effect).
are you going to order one?
i've got the old PSU at the moment, so i'll get batteries only if they will be reported as an improvement by someone like you
are you going to order one?
i've got the old PSU at the moment, so i'll get batteries only if they will be reported as an improvement by someone like you
Yes, I ordered a 5200 mAh and a charger with protection circuitry from the same seller for $49.90 total. I'm planning to see how it works and post results with the DI and then again when I get my DI-V21.
Kingwa must be talking about some low capacity batteries or something when he says you can find them with charger for $15. There's about an $8 premium for the barrel connectors from what I've seen comparable battery packs selling for with bare wire ends. I think that's a pretty fair price to pay regardless, and $50 is less expensive than the power supply anyway.
Edit: I wonder if the Olimex Isolator will work with the DI-V21 (at 24/96 and lower, anyway).
quite frankly, I really wouldn't advise to use no-name chinese batteries: http://www.nikonusa.com/Service-And-Support/Service-Advisories/h0ndzaip/EN-EL15-Battery-Recall-Service-Advisory.html
even those that went through the QA of serious manufacturers can give problems, so no-name stuff on ebay directly shipped from China? hummm.
Kingwa also provides a killer looking Class-A PSU with 0.3mV ripple for pretty cheap, sounds good to me..no overheating issue, no flat batteries, very low ripple = win win
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