[gLer]

Thanks for the swift reply! So would you say that the harshness I'm hearing around 1 and 6 kHz will most likely be due to the cheap DAC/amp in my audio interface?

I've read that, if you were to create an analogy for the R2R, that it would be more like listening to vinyl, or something analog as opposed to something super precise and digital. That's all good with me as I like warmer, more organic signatures, but aren't the LCD-2 already supposed to be warmer cans? I don't want to overdo it. Also I've read about the clicks that the R2R produces because they couldn't include some sort of mute circuit in that design, whereas in the NFB they could. Have you heard this yourself? I'm wondering if the safer bet is the NFB, as it has jumpers for different signatures (maybe the R2R does, too), so I could always adjust things to get my preferred tone I guess. Thanks.

Difficult to say where the harshness is coming from until you try a different source/amp. Also we each hear differently, so what's harsh to you might be fine to me, and vice versa. Only trying different links in the chain will solve the problem; such is the beauty/frustration/cost of this hobby of ours. As for warmth, I wouldn't worry about that. The latest version LCD-2s are far less warm than say the 2C or older non-fazor (and even early revision fazor) models. And the AGDs aren't that warm that you'll suddenly overdo it; in fact the R2R-11 has a jumper you can set to make it 'warmer', which most people leave alone. The 'pops' in the R2R-11 are a thing of the past with the new firmware (if you buy new, you'll get an up to date model). The NFB-11 doesn't have this issue, but I believe some units mute the first second or so of the track during changes. which can be even more frustrating. I don't have experience of the different NFB filters, but as I said, my preference is R2R for the sound signature, and I can live with a few quirks to get that. May I suggest taking your LCDs to an audio store that stocks some decent demo amps and dacs, if only to hear the difference and determine if it's the source or the headphones that are causing your discomfort. I suspect its the source, but you never know.

 

[neonjung]

Difficult to say where the harshness is coming from until you try a different source/amp. Also we each hear differently, so what's harsh to you might be fine to me, and vice versa. Only trying different links in the chain will solve the problem; such is the beauty/frustration/cost of this hobby of ours. As for warmth, I wouldn't worry about that. The latest version LCD-2s are far less warm than say the 2C or older non-fazor (and even early revision fazor) models. And the AGDs aren't that warm that you'll suddenly overdo it; in fact the R2R-11 has a jumper you can set to make it 'warmer', which most people leave alone. The 'pops' in the R2R-11 are a thing of the past with the new firmware (if you buy new, you'll get an up to date model). The NFB-11 doesn't have this issue, but I believe some units mute the first second or so of the track during changes. which can be even more frustrating. I don't have experience of the different NFB filters, but as I said, my preference is R2R for the sound signature, and I can live with a few quirks to get that. May I suggest taking your LCDs to an audio store that stocks some decent demo amps and dacs, if only to hear the difference and determine if it's the source or the headphones that are causing your discomfort. I suspect its the source, but you never know.

Great idea. There is a Richer Sounds just down the road from me and they have a bunch of different amps in, I know for a fact they have the Mojo in, so I could have a listen to them through that. Also thanks for the R2R info, very useful!

 

[Hifiearspeakers]

Difficult to say where the harshness is coming from until you try a different source/amp. Also we each hear differently, so what's harsh to you might be fine to me, and vice versa. Only trying different links in the chain will solve the problem; such is the beauty/frustration/cost of this hobby of ours. As for warmth, I wouldn't worry about that. The latest version LCD-2s are far less warm than say the 2C or older non-fazor (and even early revision fazor) models. And the AGDs aren't that warm that you'll suddenly overdo it; in fact the R2R-11 has a jumper you can set to make it 'warmer', which most people leave alone. The 'pops' in the R2R-11 are a thing of the past with the new firmware (if you buy new, you'll get an up to date model). The NFB-11 doesn't have this issue, but I believe some units mute the first second or so of the track during changes. which can be even more frustrating. I don't have experience of the different NFB filters, but as I said, my preference is R2R for the sound signature, and I can live with a few quirks to get that. May I suggest taking your LCDs to an audio store that stocks some decent demo amps and dacs, if only to hear the difference and determine if it's the source or the headphones that are causing your discomfort. I suspect its the source, but you never know.

This makes me want the LCD 2 more. I find the Audeze house sound to always have too much recessed upper mids and treble, which is why I couldn’t keep the LCD X. If these have some sparkle in the areas your describe, then sign me up!

 

[neonjung]

This makes me want the LCD 2 more. I find the Audeze house sound to always have too much recessed upper mids and treble, which is why I couldn’t keep the LCD X. If these have some sparkle in the areas your describe, then sign me up!

I wouldn't worry one bit about recessed upper mids and highs, at least not with my ears and this particular pair of LCD2F that I have. I have a very analytical ear though. Depending on the track, I'm often finding I need to cut 1 kHz a little bit, sometimes 3-6 k. Not much though, so it's nothing major, and actually when I'm listening at more "sensible" levels I don't feel the need to EQ that region at all. Bear in mind my lower quality interface on DAC and amp duties though, so YMMV. Overall I'm really impressed and content with the sound of these, and I've rejected many other cans before these bar the hd600's, haven't heard the X's but I can't see me needing them after getting the 2's.

 

[Hifiearspeakers]

I wouldn't worry one bit about recessed upper mids and highs, at least not with my ears and this particular pair of LCD2F that I have. I have a very analytical ear though. Depending on the track, I'm often finding I need to cut 1 kHz a little bit, sometimes 3-6 k. Not much though, so it's nothing major, and actually when I'm listening at more "sensible" levels I don't feel the need to EQ that region at all. Bear in mind my lower quality interface on DAC and amp duties though, so YMMV. Overall I'm really impressed and content with the sound of these, and I've rejected many other cans before these bar the hd600's, haven't heard the X's but I can't see me needing them after getting the 2's.

I really liked the X. If it just had some upper mids/lower treble and a little more upper treble extension, I would still own them today. I’ve heard different opinions on the 2 Fazor. Some say it has the most upper mids and treble of the LCD line and some say it’s the same. I hope it has the most.

 

[Damien Chung]

This makes me want the LCD 2 more. I find the Audeze house sound to always have too much recessed upper mids and treble, which is why I couldn’t keep the LCD X. If these have some sparkle in the areas your describe, then sign me up!

If you could, get a pre fazor LCD 2, they are just so smooth and lush.

 

[DefectiveAudioComponent]

Difficult to say where the harshness is coming from until you try a different source/amp. Also we each hear differently, so what's harsh to you might be fine to me, and vice versa. Only trying different links in the chain will solve the problem; such is the beauty/frustration/cost of this hobby of ours. As for warmth, I wouldn't worry about that. The latest version LCD-2s are far less warm than say the 2C or older non-fazor (and even early revision fazor) models. And the AGDs aren't that warm that you'll suddenly overdo it; in fact the R2R-11 has a jumper you can set to make it 'warmer', which most people leave alone. The 'pops' in the R2R-11 are a thing of the past with the new firmware (if you buy new, you'll get an up to date model). The NFB-11 doesn't have this issue, but I believe some units mute the first second or so of the track during changes. which can be even more frustrating. I don't have experience of the different NFB filters, but as I said, my preference is R2R for the sound signature, and I can live with a few quirks to get that. May I suggest taking your LCDs to an audio store that stocks some decent demo amps and dacs, if only to hear the difference and determine if it's the source or the headphones that are causing your discomfort. I suspect its the source, but you never know.

As I have perhaps mentioned before, the early LCDs had very dense dust collectors, resulting in a very dark sound. Pad swapping has dramatic effects. Mine sounds glorious, but I am considering to use a new material (micro suction) to make the origial pads swappable with new pads, to be able to enjoy that very dark sound at times. The new pads are much better overall though.

 

[DefectiveAudioComponent]

Does anyone with lcds have rusting on the screws on the outer plates of each sides. Cuz my 2.2s are rusting, and i have no idea how to get rid of it.

The screws are rusting as well? Do you have a photo?

 

[CoCostanza]

Hey,
How much will the earpads break in with time and usage? Right now I think they seal way too much. They sound best when I lift them like 1 cm away from my ears. The bass goes from boomy and muddy to a real clean bass. Also a lots of details dissapear. Like pink noise sounds like brown noise untin I lift them.
Its not a small change, its a big difference. So big that I think maybe earpads break in wont fix it?

 

[Sotiris]

As soon as you change the terrible default cables , you will have a new better phones.

I just plugged pure silver lavricables 20 cores and its a new experience.....

 

[DavidA]

Hey,
How much will the earpads break in with time and usage? Right now I think they seal way too much. They sound best when I lift them like 1 cm away from my ears. The bass goes from boomy and muddy to a real clean bass. Also a lots of details dissapear. Like pink noise sounds like brown noise untin I lift them.
Its not a small change, its a big difference. So big that I think maybe earpads break in wont fix it?

You might want to try Dekoni replacement pads or one of the various ones from ZMF

 

[AnnaMarieR]

Sounds like my problem. Im gonna check it out and play a little more with the adjustment.

And I still havent tried them with an real amp. That could fix it. Fiio e12as output power is just 0.4W

With this issue, Ihad similar running through a Yamahe CDS2000 H/P outlet , when tried on Schiit Lyr it was great, underpowered is really not good

 

[CoCostanza]

With this issue, Ihad similar running through a Yamahe CDS2000 H/P outlet , when tried on Schiit Lyr it was great, underpowered is really not good

I got the Ifi ican se and its much better but its still there. Specially the bass. Right now Im waiting maybe its the earpads that needs to break in or something.

 

[CoCostanza]

Will the bamboo need oil treatment as well or is it just the rosewood? Because I didnt get any oil in the packaging.

 

[Dnguyen926]

How much will it cost to send a pair back to Audeze to repair a crack in both the wood cups? It is a pair of rosewood lcd 2.