ATH-M50 Removable Cable Mod
Mar 12, 2013 at 8:40 PM Post #272 of 801
Just finished mine
I HIGHLY recomend you just scrap the wires that are connected and rewire the 3 colored wires (leave the black one)
The wire connected has some kind of white thread (insulation?) that prevents most solder from sticking to!
Makes it a HUGE pain in the butt
I almost quit because of it, then i decided to rewire (cut up an old ethernet cord, works well for wire when youre desperate) 
the whole rewiring + attaching / finishing took only 20 minutes compared to the previous 3 hours of trying to get solder to stick the stock wires! 
 
Mar 14, 2013 at 5:54 PM Post #273 of 801
The thread is actually to relieve tension on the cable in case it gets pulled hard, because the wires are so thin they might break if it wasn't there. I'm not sure why but I had a big hassle getting it soldered too....maybe if I would have used flux it would work better.
 
Mar 16, 2013 at 1:05 AM Post #275 of 801
Just finished mine with mini xlr to 1/4 TRS and mogami cable.  It wasn't the easiest thing in the world but I managed it over the course of a couple hours.  The mini TRS still required a bit of grinding on the plastic driver housing, and I ended up replacing all of the wires except the ones coming from the right cup.  I accidentally reversed left and right on the female TRS (It's easy to get mixed up if you don't pay close attention to the numbers), but that was an easy fix once I realized I'd done it.
 
I'll post some pictures when I get a chance (I didn't take any in progress ones though).
 
Mar 16, 2013 at 6:29 PM Post #276 of 801
Quote:
The thread is actually to relieve tension on the cable in case it gets pulled hard, because the wires are so thin they might break if it wasn't there. I'm not sure why but I had a big hassle getting it soldered too....maybe if I would have used flux it would work better.

That threading gave me such a headache. I would highly recommend everyone just rewires it. Its really easy 
 
Apr 2, 2013 at 7:17 PM Post #277 of 801
ATH-M40fs:
I was concerned that the chassis wouldn't line up well since the cable opening as it was at an angle and not flat like on the M50's but once I removed the rubber gromment that sits at the base of the cup (the hole where th cable feeds through) I found that it's perfectly suited to use a jack with. It was basically made for this mod to be done which surprised me. The 40fs's don't require the driver housing to be chopped so it was actually simpler than this thread describes. Album of the finished product below:
 
http://imgur.com/a/UCxyc
 
Thanks for the inspiration. I think I'll do this to just about every set of wired headphones I own. 
 
Apr 6, 2013 at 3:57 PM Post #278 of 801
Ok, so I just finished my mod last night. Parts took longer than expected to ship but at least I got it done. Just one problem, I occasionally get no sound coming from the left ear cup. Anyone know what I might have done wrong? Hope I didn't mess up any of the wiring. I'll try to upload some pictures of the inside of the cup a little later.
 
Apr 11, 2013 at 1:15 PM Post #281 of 801
Alright, before I do this mod I want to check that I'm getting this right:
PH-666J-B.jpg

so the tall silver metal is the one I attach with the black wire, the gold metal is the one I attach with a red wire, and the shorter silver metal is the one I attach with green wire?
also, do I need to apply flux to the metals that I'll be soldering or is it okay? Thanks.


So, this is indeed the correct wire-to-pin setup?
 
Apr 25, 2013 at 2:02 PM Post #282 of 801
Hi everyone - Long time lurker, but I have been following this thread closely to do my mod.  I finished my mod, ordered some beats cables and can't be happier. 
L3000.gif

 
The result of my mod is my avatar pic, and if I can figure out how to post the pics of the process here I'd be glad to do so!  I'm not sure if I can't post pics because I'm new 
confused_face(1).gif

 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top