[nulk1]

I gave a link...?

Yeah Sorry I Saw That After And I DIDNT Know How To DELETE The Comment

 

[bugo57]

Yeah Sorry I Saw That After And I DIDNT Know How To DELETE The Comment

Oh, no problem, nevermind...

 

[wolfetan44]

Can I use a 4 pin mini XLR for this mod or is it too big?

 

[PETEREK]

Like I said in the DIY questions thread, it's probably going to be too big if you dont want to affect the sound in that cup. You could probably modify an in-line mini xlr connector and mount it to the headphones so it looks like the M50x design, that wouldn't take up any of the inner cup volume. It could look pretty sweet to if you can pull off the mod.
 

 

[davidwyl]

Use this chassis and jacks... no need to cut the internal case and very minimal in size.
With locking features , which it good to have

 

[PETEREK]

I wouldn't call that minimal at all, but it does look like a nice jack. If you don't mind having the 3.5mm jack sticking out like that, that would be the best connector to use. I personally like the lower profile outer look.

 

[davidwyl]

It does sticking out abit for the locking mechanism...on the internal side this chassis doesn't take away much space.

Sent from my GT-N7100 using Tapatalk

 

[bugo57]

Use this chassis and jacks... no need to cut the internal case and very minimal in size.
With locking features , which it good to have

 
I saw this mod before I bought my chassis, but its to expencive and bulky... So at the end I have gone with my chassis and it was cheap, and the cutting was easy because I've used the soldering iron for that and it came out nice and tight, and didn't changed the sound...
So im happy.

 

[wolfetan44]

So what's the best thing to use for this detachable mod?

 

[supjj]

Use this chassis and jacks... no need to cut the internal case and very minimal in size.
With locking features , which it good to have

Nicely done, I did a similar mod using a modified inline locking jack.   Like  yours it moves the bulk of the jack outside of the driver casing to minimize the need to remove a bunch of the material inside.
 
The part I used was http://www.markertek.com/Connectors-Adapters/Audio-Adapters/3-5mm-Adapters/Calrad-Electronics/30-297.xhtml
 
As I mentioned, I modified the jack by cutting the threaded barrel portion off to create lock ring.
It hard to explain but when I get my comment count up enough for upload privileges, I will post pictures.

 

[drangel1]

Based on all the information in this thread (appreciate all the contributions), I attempted this mod last night. I used the Parts Express jack, and everything was soldered up and working fine until final assembly. Now I'm not getting any sound at all from the right driver. I did a quick continuity check and all seems to be okay (jack to left driver, jack to red/black "passthrough" to the right driver). I've tried the same source, but multiple AUX cables, with the same result. Can someone help me identify the issue and what to check next? Thanks in advance.
 
EDIT - False alarm, loose connection into the source.

 

[silenz]

could you provide a link to that chassis/jack? thanks

 

[wolfetan44]

I don't want to ruin my girlfriend's M50's, so I'm going to ask before doing any rash things.. How do I take off the rubber thing where the 3.5mm female plug is supposed to go?(the one that makes it detachable.)

 

[Kamakahah]

I don't want to ruin my girlfriend's M50's, so I'm going to ask before doing any rash things.. How do I take off the rubber thing where the 3.5mm female plug is supposed to go?(the one that makes it detachable.)

I think you're talking about the rubber grommet where the cable passes through the cup?

If that is the case, it just pulls out along with the cable after you desolder the wires from the driver.

You won't hurt anything by taking it out, but by that point that you remove it, you'll have already desoldered the cable so you'll have already committed to the job. Commit bro, commit.

 

[PETEREK]

The way I forced myself to do my detachable mod on my first DT770 was cutting the cable. Haha