Bad news: The April update on Pixel 4 series does NOT fix the problem. (sigh)

No. Someone asked this on their FB page and Ampio replies as "The DAC/AMP can only works as a receiver, not a transmitter". Although I can relate to your need of USB LDAC transmitter; it would be good to see such products, but there are none AFAIK.

Just got M1 VS-1880 today. The local price is ~140USD, with promotions. I'm pairing it with Sony XZ premium (aptX HD / LDAC) and ASUS Z500KL tablet (aptX). The fun of VS-1880 is that it supports all major BT audio codec to date. The XZp can change the codec on the fly in developer options, so...

I thought I've found the end game portable pair, but the lost headphone changes that... Just tried some Westone (W30,W40), some Sony (XBA-A2,A3,Z5) and SE846 (black tube). I'll try 846 with blue tubes later, not enough time today.   But well... let's keep the thread to the X5ii. :p

Well the Fiio states the heat will not damage the player. If you're concerned, you can set the gain to low for less heat and longer battery life, in the price of the sound quality. You can always try for yourself. I was pairing it with a SE535 (not LTD), and found the low gain mode has less...

Well It sounded the same to me. I've even tried to install the Gen3 driver for Yggy; It works but can't find difference either.

Did you tried to contact Schiit? USB is convenient when it works, but it does not always works... :p

Hi, Just follow the instruction. My procedures on Windows 7 SP1 x64:   0. Uninstall the Schiit USB audio device in device manager, choose the "uninstall the driver too" (note: maybe not necessary, just my own habit) 1. Uninstall the old driver from control panel. I chose not to reboot...

OK thanks!

I'm using stock tubes now, and have no idea about tubes lol My music genres are: classical, folk metal, J-pop, movie/anime soundtracks, etc. So I think it's good to keep the sound signature neutral. Any suggestion? welcome ;)

Bifrost Uber into Valhalla 2, driving Beyer T1. Usually the pot in 9:00 ~ 11:00, unless playing albums with low volume. BTW, both of my 2 24bit albums has lower volume. Not sure if there's a relation though.

Just received my Uber upgrade today, for the last board was lost somewhere in Indianapolis by FedEx. The bad weather is the blame, I guess! Schiit and FedEx arranged to send another one.   I'm so far surprised by the difference that Uber makes. Everything is more resolved, bass is more...

T1 has a coin-sized vent, covered with metal mesh. This thread (http://www.head-fi.org/t/612796/guide-how-to-properly-dampen-your-beyerdynamic-t1) has some picture inside the cup, FYI.

Well it seems that the cable is not a good match for the setup... Change with another (unbranded, who knows?) cable improves the problem. But since the uber analog is still in US, supposedly trapped by the bad weather, I'll have to start the cable hunt after the upgrade arrives.

Just upgraded from a pile of Fiio (E17+E09K) to a pile of Schiit (Valhalla 2+Bifrost USB Gen2, w/o uber) to drive my T1 No.23xx. Listening to classic or soundtrack definitely improves; female vocal is great too. But I just start to listen to metal, Chthonic that is (usually categorized as...

For that I can say: no. I was using Beyer T1 + Fiio E17+E09K combo. Just bought Valhalla 2 recently to replace the E09K. The stage opens up a bit, much better lower bass, but almost no resolution improvement. I think the latter is caused by E17.   It's still a bang for the buck, just not...

I already have a T1 and looking for amp / DAC for it. Using Fiio E17+E09K now, the sound is slightly warm, but lacks dynamic, sometimes a little boring. I'm planning to get a W4S uDAC (not uDAC HD), with a tube amp (Schiit Valhalla 2 or Crack+Speedball). Anyone has similar setting or...

I did have some problem with T1, since I'm wearing glasses and the legs kinda poke into the headphone cup  But after some trying. I finally find a good spot wearing T1 and glasses at the same time.   On the other hand, for me HD800 is harder to find a good spot since its cup is much larger...

Thanks for the info! So iBasso do change the pin soldering at some point between 4~6th batch. It's a bit too long after my mod too, so it's possible they're using the same way as mine now. I'll have to use the fingernail to push the pin before closing the cover :p

The mod of course void the warranty, but since I've broke the warranty sticker inside earlier...... Don't try this if you can't stand the warranty void. I'm uncomfortable about the grounding pin, so I just move it to the other side. Like this: (Sorry for my ugly and lazy drawings!) The pin...

Yeah T1 deserves decent source, but the price is still a concern. That's why we welcome different reviews with different sources.   I for one set the source budget limit, AMP + DAC, at USD 1400 which is the official price of T1. (I bought mine @ ~USD 900 though) Yeah I know there are better...

What source you used to pair with O2 / T1?   O2 has a configuration that includes the ODAC in the O2 AMP case. Not bad as a entry level neutral source.

In fact, from what I've read on T1-related discussions, some people thinks O2 pairs well (in its price range) with T1. I've tested the O2 with DT880 32ohm, and I do think it's a deal for the price. Then again, that's his opinion (rant?) that we can agree / disagree upon. Maybe someone can buy...

In theory, the grounding pin should contact with the back cover so the cover becomes part of the circuit ground. This (should) make the device more RF / static-proof. But if you open the case, you'll see that the pin feet is NOT directly under the hole for the pin.

I had s similar problem that I think is static-related. The player screen goes black when I press the power to wake it up. The backlight is on, just no screen. The only way to make it work again is force poweroff (button or battery pull). The front hardware button and touch control(!) still...