[djmuzi]

My NX1 was probably a year or so inside the shelf and now it seems that the battery has died
Any suggestions for replacement or throwing it in the bin?

 

[tansand]

After playing with it, it seems alright. I tend to listen to my cans at low volumes so bass gets lost anyways, which is why I was worried about roll off

2 things
25% or less volume gives a big channel imbalance, (pretty normal on lower end amps from my experience)

And I actually use low gain for my Ethers CX. Unless I turn my Bluetooth down. The bass roll off is noticable, but on very very few tracks while on high gain. A frequency sweep best I can start noticing is around 45 hertz. Realistically you will very rarely run into that day to day


One thing I sure as heck notice is how awful the DAC is on this cheap Bluetooth dongle (I have a btr1k coming)



Bbuuuuuuuuuuuuttttt I still like to tinker heh

This is what I used - WIMA MKS2B041501E00KSSD from mouser.com (can't get a link to work) Much more extended highs than stock, counterintuitively seems like less bass than the stock blue ones, those have more but looser bass.

No complaints, but a better mod is to remove the switches and hard wire them to flat and 0db gain. Better soundstage placement and detail. You should to insulate the end of the board from the case with very thin plastic. Don't lose the little frosted pieces for the leds. Clip the switches off with a very fine pointed little cutter after removing the battery from the board, is easiest, it's double stick taped on.

 

[tansand]

My NX1 was probably a year or so inside the shelf and now it seems that the battery has died
Any suggestions for replacement or throwing it in the bin?

Anyplace that can fix cell phones should be able to replace it for you. Don't throw it away, if the price of repair is too high give it to them, or someone else!

 

[SeEnCreaTive]

This is what I used - WIMA MKS2B041501E00KSSD from mouser.com (can't get a link to work) Much more extended highs than stock, counterintuitively seems like less bass than the stock blue ones, those have more but looser bass.

No complaints, but a better mod is to remove the switches and hard wire them to flat and 0db gain. Better soundstage placement and detail. You should to insulate the end of the board from the case with very thin plastic. Don't lose the little frosted pieces for the leds. Clip the switches off with a very fine pointed little cutter after removing the battery from the board, is easiest, it's double stick taped on.

I wonder if putting small caps on, but then turning on bass boost could work to flatten the response.....

Are the switches that lossy? That's crazy.

I wonder if a fancier pot would do anything

 

[tansand]

The pot is nice, it's a rather impressive looking 10k alps, and I don't think anything else would fit..The wimas are bigger 1.5uf vs 1uf for the stock ones, but they're the same physical size. If you wanted more bass, probably the best solution is to short them with wires like a few posts ago if you don't need the DC blocking. I have no problems with the amount of bass myself. The switches are decent, nickel over brass, no steel, but they're in the feedback loop which means the sound goes through the contacts millions of times (or whatever). I think the best sound I get out of the NX1s is both the wimas and the switch mod, but I need to have the dc blocking so I can't replace the caps with wires.

 

[Nsalman]

Just received my nx1s. Been lurking in this thread. Thank you for the inputs. Seemed to work fine with my oldie senn m1. Source is just a redmi note 6 pro. Thanks again.

 

[VDRIVN]

Just got the NX1A second hand on the classifieds for $20.
After giving it a thorough cleaning (inside and out) I gave it a quick listen and it sounded flat and kind of tinny to my ears. First setup was Flac on the Onkyo android player on the galaxy s10+ connected via USB to THE FiiO Q1MKII acting as a DAC, then line out to the NX1A, on the Fiio F9 IEMs.

After reading the thread I decided to do the capacitor mod but for the life of me couldn't find a small piece of solid copper wire at a quick glance, so I decided to just use solder to connect the pins.

Yeah, I know I did a sloppy solder job but I didn't have any patience on this :-D

I'm now listening on the following setup: iPod classic Gen. 5.5, rockbox, FLAC, The NX1A connected via 3.5mm. Headphones: Sony MDR1A.
I don't know if it's placebo or a combination of the already warm sounding Wolfson-laden iPod 5.5gen and the MDR1As, but I feel the sound is so warm and rich, akin to the signature sound of tube amps. I've bumped the trebble +2db in rockbox and the sound is just perfect!

This listening session has went way beyond the allotted time, I'm enjoying this sound so much! It's so rich and warm, it's like the headphones are pouring warm caramel into my ears. I'm loving it!!

PS. I keep the NX1A on low gain even on the MDR1As, which the Q1MKII struggles a bit to drive properly.

 

[smy1]

does anybody know what size screw are those small sets on the back are? lost one, so i am looking for one and what type of replacement charger do i need for the topping nx1?

 

[SeEnCreaTive]

@tansand

I see you used 50v is there a specific voltage they have to be? I know nothing of caps heh

Edit: Some research is showing voltage rating is literally just that, the maximum voltage the cap can handle. But it will only supply what it is charged to

I'm guessing film would be best?
And it looks like the nx2s uses 1.5, and the nx3s uses 2.2uf

 

[xeizo]

I never found much use for my Topping NX1, it doesn't do much for higher impedance cans imho.

It all changed when I bought the Sony MDR-1AM2 cans, they are only 16 Ohms and are a challenge to drive with a straight curve for most headphone outs. Putting the Topping NX1 in between, as a buffer if you like, on low gain makes a massive difference on all my headphone outs. It has a fantastic synergy with the MDR-1AM2, very clean in all registers and a large soundstage.

Only real weakness is the RF sensitivity for 4G if using close to a phone, it should be possible to shield in some way. Amazing, it took only five years until I found a use for it

 

[SeEnCreaTive]

Whelp running my ether CX straight from my BTR1k sounds a million times better. Night and day

My only guess is those caps.

What is are the risks of no DC blocking?

 

[Podster]

Just received my nx1s. Been lurking in this thread. Thank you for the inputs. Seemed to work fine with my oldie senn m1. Source is just a redmi note 6 pro. Thanks again.

The NX1s is a killer amp, a true upgrade to the original NX1 which I also have as well as the sweet NX2, congrats

IMHO Topping amps are very hard to beat for the price

 

[Manuelseth34]

Ive been using the nx1s with my shanling m0 and my tinhifi t2s everyday since i received the amp. I havent modded it yet cause most music i listen to the megabass to me is boosting the right frequencies to give drums lil extra punch and bring out the bass guitar and give balls to the rythmn guitar

 

[Manuelseth34]

My setup for now

 

[willyboyaudio]

Hey Folks, I got the itch and almost bought some new caps to mod my NX1S. Before I jump on the purchase, I figured, why not do some measurements if DC offset is really an issue with my players. In short, it’s not. With iPhone line out adapter, iPad Pro, HP ProBook, MacBook Pro, DC offset is only ranging from 9-15mV. I decided to just bypass the caps. DC offset is still within the safe range. No worries here.

Do I notice any different from that 2.5dB roll off at 20Hz? Not with my earbuds, but maybe with my headphones. Or if I use it as a buffer in my speakers system. However this gives me a peace of mind. I know (supposedly) my NX1S is not cutting any frequency, and I’m free from phase distortion.

Since I see this is frequently asked, I attach a photo showing the two links to bypass the input caps. Please see where the two lines point at.

If there’s any correction please let me know. Thanks!