The Stax Thread III

[SolarCetacean]

Rumor mill:

I talked to Stax's Douglas Ip at CanJam NYC this weekend and he mentioned a few things about Stax's upcoming plans.

First, they plan for an SR-007 successor this year, something to slot in where the 007 used to be. I tried to ask if they would maintain the 007's tuning, and maybe he didn't quite understand my question, but he said something along the lines of "the 007 has a dark sound, but with the new model, you can add some brightness to it with the T8000 amp". Not sure what that's supposed to mean, other than the T8000 making things sound brighter.

Second, the option boards for that expansion slot on the T8000 should be released sometime this year. I saw pictures of those boards (DAC and phono stage) last year.

I listened to the T8000 with the X9000 for a while and I concluded that the amp indeed made things brighter. The percussion had some more boominess, like there was a boost to the upper bass and the treble had more sparkle. The boomy bass could have a bit of a "cinematic" effect, like those movie theater dramatic "BWOOAAMMM!!!" effects, or less charitably like a car subwoofer, but it didn't sound as "solid" as on a BHSE. The added treble sparkle is a matter of taste, I don't mind it, but it's not as crisp and well-defined as on a BHSE or Aeras. It's almost like each treble note is smeared a bit so it occupies more of the sound.

And I know we like to make fun of Stax for their overpriced (for the performance) amps, but they're still a far cry from the Hifiman Shangri-La Sr amp, which is a $32K abomination of sibilance and harshness. This might be an unpopular view in The Stax Thread, but I am a big fan of the Hifiman Shangri-La Jr. I listened to it and the Shang Sr side-by-side on the Shang Sr amp at CanJam and it sounded terrible. I started with the Sr and thought it was really rough with treble spikes and sibilance everywhere, so I switched to the Jr for reference and it was rough too! The Jr's amp was no better, the Hifiman amps just make the treble very strident, piercing, and sibilant in addition to being weak in bass and limp in percussive impact. And the Jr's amp was so weak that I got it to clip. The T8000 might make bass boomy and highs sparkly, but it's nowhere near as bad as the Hifiman amps.

 

[mbrennwa]

electrostatic direct-drive amplifiers are by far the most problematic and hardest to keep running 100% problem free.

Interesting! What kind of issues or failures did you experience?
I'd be surprised if high voltage or heat are the sources of those issues. Hot amplifiers have been around for years, and they work well and reliably if designed and built well. The same can be said for high-voltage tube amps, which tend to keep working for many decades.

 

[TheAbyss2022]

First, they plan for an SR-007 successor this year, something to slot in where the 007 used to be.

 

[Kunal1991]

Direct upgrade path from STAX L300?

This is my bedroom setup for relaxed listening with the occasional glass(or bottle) of wine
It's a year old now, and the only Estat I own.

Couple of days back, I swapped out the bundled SRM-252S energizer for a Topping EHA-5. I use crossfeed and bump up the sub bass by 2db at 20hz. This gives bass a more rounded texture and makes the thin vocals somewhat fuller sounding. DSP is also why I stuck with the Mojo 2 and didn't upgrade to a Qutest.

After swapping the energizer, I noticed additional control in the lower treble and sub bass. It sounds less harsh at the top end and the clipping at higher volumes is pretty much gone.

I'm confident this energizer should be adequate for something like a Nectar Hive-X or Stax L700 at reasonable volumes.

What should the upgrade path look like?
My budget is 2000USD, but I could stretch it by a bit

 

[Billy the Mountain]

Hi folks, long time lurker first post.

After acquiring a modded 007A 2.95 from Mjölnir Audio aka Spritzer about a year ago i’ve been looking for an amp to power the beast as my Stax 400S wasn’t up to the job.

With the help of this thread and multiple threads on Head-Case I decided on a KGSShv Carbon and contacted Søren Brix if he would be willing to build me one.

The amp landed here a few weeks ago and after settling in it transformed the headphones.

From a boomy sound with a presentation that was all over the place into a tight, expanded and a very enjoyable listen that just lets the music flow and lets me connect on a real emotional level to the performance - pure bliss, although I hate the hyperbole, it is what it is.

So, thank you all for your insights, signing off and back to lurking, cheers!

 

[hutzelmeier]

Layman's question: Why are there so many aftermarket amplifiers, but (almost) no aftermarket headphones? Because you can't get the components for headphones on the market, but you can for amplifiers? Or is the assembly that much more difficult? There are people in Europe who will repair our Stax headphones and even replace the membrane, so it can't be too difficult?

 

[Rob80b]

Direct upgrade path from STAX L300?

I'm in the process of doing the same thing, almost went for some SR007MKII but after reading more they may be the wrong path for my preferences.

I'm confident this energizer should be adequate for something like a Nectar Hive-X or Stax L700 at reasonable volumes.

What should the upgrade path look like?

I've added thicker pads and the MKII headband assembly to my L300 but If you like the intimacy of the stock pads, the thicker pads may not be to your liking as it puts the sound more as arms length, my preference.
I've also just added the SRM400S and that made IMHO a big improvement all round over the SRM252S, better bass, image layering, cleaner and no distortion at volume. Not sure how the Topping EHA-5, which I was also considering, compares.

My budget is 2000USD, but I could stretch it by a bit

If you like the HD660S2 maybe something like the SR007 might be the way to go?
Come to think of it the L300 actually replaced my HD660S2.

 

[Svperstar]

Audio is strange. If I were going just by read impressions of 009, I'd be 100% certain to hate it.

For sure. I loved the HD650 which is seen as warm, as well as the LCD-2 and LCD-2 Classic. Both are excellent headphones. So you would think I only like "dark" gear but no. I have a pair of Grados lying around and the sound is fine but the cable is the worst monstrosity in existence making it almost unwearable, not the hot Grado treble.

 

[Lucikun]

Direct upgrade path from STAX L300?

This is my bedroom setup for relaxed listening with the occasional glass(or bottle) of wine
It's a year old now, and the only Estat I own.

Couple of days back, I swapped out the bundled SRM-252S energizer for a Topping EHA-5. I use crossfeed and bump up the sub bass by 2db at 20hz. This gives bass a more rounded texture and makes the thin vocals somewhat fuller sounding. DSP is also why I stuck with the Mojo 2 and didn't upgrade to a Qutest.

After swapping the energizer, I noticed additional control in the lower treble and sub bass. It sounds less harsh at the top end and the clipping at higher volumes is pretty much gone.

I'm confident this energizer should be adequate for something like a Nectar Hive-X or Stax L700 at reasonable volumes.

What should the upgrade path look like?
My budget is 2000USD, but I could stretch it by a bit

My L700 MK2 sounds fantastic on the EHA5, so definitely works with the L700. Even though people say the L300/L500 are really similar to the L700, I found the L700 MK2 to be a fairly big upgrade to my previously owned L500 MK2. Heck, I didn’t even like the 500 whereas I love the 700.

 

[Kunal1991]

If you like the intimacy of the stock pads, the thicker pads may not be to your liking as it puts the sound more as arms length

Yeah that was exactly what I suspected..
For throwing out a soundstage, I've got my 800S on tubes.
Part of what makes the L300 so special for me is it's HD6xx style of vocal presentation (albeit to a lesser degree). That coupled with it's resolution is almost perfect...

If you like the HD660S2 maybe something like the SR007 might be the way to go?

Would you describe the 007 as a more resolving 660S2? I like the L300, but still keep the 660S2 because I love it's presentation. It's better than the 600/650/6XX in my books.

Between the L700 and the SR007, I know many who would go for the lambda because they find the 007 sounds too much like a "normal" headphone. Thoughts?

 

[SolarCetacean]

Between the L700 and the SR007, I know many who would go for the lambda because they find the 007 sounds too much like a "normal" headphone. Thoughts?

For the L700, yeah, it has a presentation that is basically unique. In particular, I haven't heard its spatial presentation anywhere else (except other L-series Stax). The 007 has more normal soundstage.

 

[Kunal1991]

I found the L700 MK2 to be a fairly big upgrade to my previously owned L500 MK2

In what ways, if I might ask?

 

[Philimon]

Because stupid double post feature I am posting here for more reach and feedback instead of editing my post in the slow moving poor man’s Stax thread.

==============

@ludoo @gammi

252s vs SRD-7

^ averaged frequency response measurements, modded SR-X1, graph to highlight the differences only

Did I notice a difference subjectively? No.
The measured difference in high frequencies appears to trend with others within this thread whove measured and compared SRD7mk2 vs Stax amps. I suppose this possible tonal difference may be a pro or con depending on user and system.

I did notice that the 252s (with uprated power supply) could seemingly get louder than my SRD7mk2 (modded and paired with Schitt Rekkr 2W @ 8ohm) based on how much pre-amp (Saga2) volume was needed to reach 90dB. I intend to sell SRD7mk2 and save on desk space, dm me if interested, Ill create a classified soon.

==========

I want to padroll SR-207 so started by creating a pad adapter for common 100mm round pads.

Having previously owned the SOCAS pad adapter for L500, I assumed that the procedure would be the same which involves unscrewing the stock pad mount. And so I removed stock pads and screws from 207 but I was unable to get the stock pad mount to come off. I figured maybe it was just stuck from overfill adhesive from the stock pads. But after some prying then quick investigating I saw SOCAS x07 series pad adapter instructions were different and doesnt call for unscrewing anything but just stickying the pad adapter on to the stock pad mount. Does this mean I cant easily remove stock pad mount and should just do as SOCAS recommends?

Not a big deal to just adhesive the new pad mount on except that it adds an extra few mm to pad depth. I just like the idea of having them screwed-in.

Test fitting:

^ Oval pads make more sense for the shape of Lambda enclosure so will try that next. I just have so many more spare round pads to choose from that I wanted to try those first.

 

[yaluen]

And so I removed stock pads and screws from 207 but I was unable to get the stock pad mount to come off. I figured maybe it was just stuck from overfill adhesive from the stock pads. But after some prying then quick investigating I saw SOCAS x07 series pad adapter instructions were different and doesnt call for unscrewing anything but just stickying the pad adapter on to the stock pad mount. Does this mean I cant easily remove stock pad mount and should just do as SOCAS recommends?

Most likely stuck due to adhesive yes. x07s have drivers screwed onto the mounting plates, probably why SOCAS opted for a stuck-on solution.

 

[ericj]

Layman's question: Why are there so many aftermarket amplifiers, but (almost) no aftermarket headphones? Because you can't get the components for headphones on the market, but you can for amplifiers? Or is the assembly that much more difficult? There are people in Europe who will repair our Stax headphones and even replace the membrane, so it can't be too difficult?

Building excellent headphones involves a large amount of secret sauce. Getting the frequency response exactly how you want it is not a straightforward process. There are reasons for the FR curves being shaped the way they are. Do you know how to get that notch at about 7khz to reduce ear-burn from canal resonances? I don't.

I am skeptical of repair houses just replacing membranes with just off-the-shelf film. You can do it and the tricks to match the tension across two drivers are simple but it's probably not going to sound exactly the same as the driver did when it was new from the factory.