The Stax Thread III
Mar 4, 2017 at 1:33 AM Post #11,283 of 25,493
When MK2 versions come out can MK1's be sent back for update?



How long are the standard cables? Can they be extended?



Finally - how is service in the USA? I keep on reading about shoddy distributors - and that the current distributor is now no longer? Do they usually need service - or more or less fairly reliable?



Incredible how my only demo was a brief 15 minutes at CanJam yet the 009's remain permanently etched in my mind.

 


If you want to upgrade between versions, SOP is just to sell your old pair and then buy a new one. Much less hassle and more economical. STAX hold their value pretty well. If STAX has to completely replace a driver they can't repair then they'll put a set of whatever the current equivalents are in it though.

Standard cables are 2 meters. You can buy extension cables of varying sizes, but due to the way electrostatic headphones work, this is harder on the amp to drive the headphones. Doesn't matter much for a big amp, but noticeable on the smaller ones.

Service in the USA basically consists of shipping them back to the factory in Japan right now.
 
Mar 4, 2017 at 3:59 AM Post #11,284 of 25,493
Thank you for the replies
 
Mar 4, 2017 at 9:37 AM Post #11,285 of 25,493
I have a Stax STM-T1W, and would like to confirm that the line voltage is set correctly for use in the US. 
 

 
 
Can anyone provide (or point me to) instructions for reading/changing the line voltage setting for this amp? It appears that the selector may need to be pulled out and re-positioned with the arrow pointing toward the 117 position in order to change the setting, but I'd like to confirm that before I start pulling on it.
 
Thanks for any info.
 
Mar 4, 2017 at 10:32 AM Post #11,287 of 25,493
Kevin, thanks much for confirming that the selector is meant to be pulled out (unplugged) - it looked like that, but I wanted to confirm.
 
Is it possible to explain how to confirm whether the transformer wires have been cut? A label on the back of the amp says "100V Only", however the seller (a fairly well known seller) assures that the circuitry is in tact, and the selector just needs to be set appropriately.
 
I'd prefer to be sure before plugging it in :)
 
Mar 4, 2017 at 12:58 PM Post #11,288 of 25,493
Does the L700 pair well with Mjolnir kgsshv mini?

I wouldn't advise that pairing because the L700 is a bit hot on top even on a Carbon (even the 009 sounds more relaxed there). You'll probably want a warmer amp. I liked it on the KGST. Love it on the Carbon, but not the best for marathon sessions.
 
Mar 4, 2017 at 6:44 PM Post #11,289 of 25,493
I wouldn't advise that pairing because the L700 is a bit hot on top even on a Carbon (even the 009 sounds more relaxed there). You'll probably want a warmer amp. I liked it on the KGST. Love it on the Carbon, but not the best for marathon sessions.


Thanks for the advice. Was seriously thinking of the mini/L700 combo as a decent beginners rig without spending too much. So it's either a warmer amp or a darker can like the 007..

Would the BHSE/L700 combo sound bright similarly?
 
Mar 4, 2017 at 7:12 PM Post #11,290 of 25,493
  Kevin, thanks much for confirming that the selector is meant to be pulled out (unplugged) - it looked like that, but I wanted to confirm.
 
Is it possible to explain how to confirm whether the transformer wires have been cut? A label on the back of the amp says "100V Only", however the seller (a fairly well known seller) assures that the circuitry is in tact, and the selector just needs to be set appropriately.
 
I'd prefer to be sure before plugging it in :)


If any wires have been cut, it will be on the secondary (output) side of the power transformer.  After you set it for the appropriate voltage, just plug it in and flip the power switch.  If the wires have been cut, no power will go into the amp, so it won't even turn on.  If it turns on, the wiring is intact.  Won't harm the amp either way.  You CAN damage the amp if you plug it into 117VAC power while it is set for 100VAC, because that will result in the power supply voltages being too high.
 
The other way is to look at the power transformer and see if all the wires are intact, but that involves removing the cover and knowing what you are looking at.  Much easier to set it for the voltage and see if it turns on.  Quick yes:no answer with no detailed knowledge needed.  Don't overthink it.
 
Mar 4, 2017 at 9:54 PM Post #11,292 of 25,493
Okay I have been listening a lot since I received the srm 007TA on Wednesday and whoever said electrostats could not do bass? Mine hit hard, and hit low with no apparent distortion. bass extension is very similar to a good pair of Audeze lcd-2s I had back in the day. Really impressive!
 
Mar 4, 2017 at 11:41 PM Post #11,293 of 25,493
It seems that Mjolnir are making a number of different amps - each one a Kevin Gilmore design? What is the difference between all the versions listed on his site?

All of the Mjolnir amps are designed by Kevin Gilmore, that's what the KG stands for.
 
The original electrostatic headphone solid state amp was the KGSS (Kevin Gilmore Solid State), designed in the 1990s - AFAIK nobody is building these anymore.  At one point HeadAmp built them (they now build the Aristaeus and Blue Hawaii Special Edition).
 
An update of that was the KGSSHV (HV for high voltage) with improved third stage and higher voltage transistor output stage, and better PS in the full size versions.
 
The most recent all solid state design is the KGSS Carbon, using Silicon Carbide MOSFETS with a more linear output stage, more expensive than the KGSSHV, most advanced power supply in the full size versions.  This is reportedly the best sounding and roughly the same level as the BHSE, although some regard it as the same level as the DIY T2. I haven't heard any of them other than the BHSE, and the number of persons that have compared them AND commented on the internet can probably be counted on the fingers of both hands.
 
The mini versions of the above use a more basic regulated power supply, which may cause some losses in dynamics and soundstage - how significant this is to you depends on your sensitivity to those difference.  Note that the Stax amps all have a passive HV power supply (the more recent ones have a 7815/7915 IC regulated PS for the low voltage front end).
 
The KGST, as spritzer put it, is "a Stax SRM-007t made with no cost or retail considerations."  It uses single (6S4A) vs double triode tubes (paralleled 6FQ7) which can take more voltage and power, and AFAIK his version uses the more basic regulated PS.
 
The Octave is an all tube amp that is a balanced upgrade of Gilmore's all triode stat amp.  It's still a good design but doesn't have the ability to drive the more difficult headphones that the other KG designs have.
 
AFAIK, all the Mjolnir amps are made with balanced XLR inputs, so if you want to use RCA you'll have to get a RCA to XLR converter.
 
Mar 5, 2017 at 7:07 AM Post #11,295 of 25,493
 
If any wires have been cut, it will be on the secondary (output) side of the power transformer.

 
no that is not how they did it.  They clipped the 120v primary wire on each of the 2 windings leaving 2 x 0-100v windings
 
most of the time you can get at the wires and repair them.
 
If the sticker on the back says 100v only, then the primary wires are probably cut off.
 

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