Well...I need to A/B them with and without but initial impression is that this is pretty good. Doesn't seem to open them up but I feel like the bass is better...hitting a bit lower. Seems to also take the slightest edge off the top end, which isn't a bad thing. Needs more testing with the amount of fill but I think this has some potential for an easy do it as needed mod.
I'd appreciate it, I'll probably still try it myself next week when I have time. It just seems odd to me that a headphone transducer would respond negatively to it when all other (namely subwoofers and midranges) speakers respond better.
The Grado drivers, as well as many other headphone manufacturers' drivers, are designed to have good frequency response in an open baffle (meaning an open enclosure which Grados have). Full-size speaker midranges and woofers typically need an enclosure (and tuned ports) to control driver movement. The fiber inside speaker cabinets helps to eliminate standing waves and reflection from the back/inside of the enclosure. I think fiber and other dampening material is more important in closed headphones but you might have some interesting results when tuning an open can with it.
Yeah. It definitely changed them. Not for worse either. Not sure if better, but different. I guess a lateral change. If your Grados are already busted open, I'd say it's worth trying. I mean it takes a couple seconds and is 100% reversable.
So yesterday accelerated my DIY project plans for modding when I fell roller blading and upon falling tugged the left cable and it stopped playing through the left channel. (Yes I use my grado sr-325is as my portable headphones with the extra cabling in a second pocket) After prying open the cups (hot water method) I immediately saw the issue with the wire. (I was lucky the damage is easily repairable)
To repair I cut the wire in two (at the location of damage) and soldered each wire back together using silver, taped each wire individually, then together (ground with ground, power with power) then around all four. I think this will be more than enough to protect the newly soldered components.
I decided to go with dynamat on the backplate, I wanted to experiment with poly fill but had plenty of dynamat and no poly fill. Laws of college students state that the $5 on a pound of poly fill is better spent on 5 meals. Besides, aluminum housing deserves aluminum materials, so I covered all the interior walls that are plastic with dynamat(which is a product of tar-like rubber and aluminum sheet meant for cars mostly). I also chose to do alternating hole punches (5 total)
Removed grill cloth on front.
I removed the button to simplify the aesthetics on the outside and then used electrical tape on the bowls. The overall product of my labor.
Glad you could fix them and doing it yourself besides. If I lost my 325's I would be extremely upset. I got some 225i's just in case that should ever happen (Just to pull me through until I could get the 325's replaced or repaired)
Glad you could fix them and doing it yourself besides. If I lost my 325's I would be extremely upset. I got some 225i's just in case that should ever happen (Just to pull me through until I could get the 325's replaced or repaired)
That is exactly how I felt! But without the 225i, I REALLY did not want to have to go back to my bose oe.
After opening the cable up I was disappointed by how small the wiring really is the insulation is a bit misleading IMO) I would have to guess it was 22 awg or smaller with 4 runs(2 power 2 ground) to each can. Is that how small all headphones make their wiring? Probably the next thing to go.
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