[kkl10]

nevermind

 

[demevalos]

I'm looking to mod my T1 Gen 1 to have dual detachable cables. I opened them up and found this:

https://i.imgur.com/ns17p7c.jpg

It appears that there's a bare copper wire that runs all the way down to the sleeve on the TRS, along with the negative connection (brown in this picture).

Does anyone know if this bare copper shield wire is necessary? Can I just hook up the + and - to a TS female?

 

[439598]

They are the ends of the shield twisted into a wire, heat-shrinked and joined to the metal driver casings, yes you can cut it and ignore it. If you really wanted to you could use TRS plugs and use the extra terminal to keep this connection between the shield and driver casing but doubt it does very much at all.

 

[demevalos]

They are the ends of the shield twisted into a wire, heat-shrinked and joined to the metal driver casings, yes you can cut it and ignore it. If you really wanted to you could use TRS plugs and use the extra terminal to keep this connection between the shield and driver casing but doubt it does very much at all. The shield is there to pick up interference, if anything you may want to keep that away from the driver.

Thanks so much. I actually am using TRS females, but the cable I'll be using is 4 pin xlr at the amp anyway, so I'd have to wire and specifically make a cable for them. I'll try it without the shield first and see how it goes.

 

[439598]

4 pin xlr has a 5th connection for a shield if your cable is actually shielded but if its already wired with TS male plugs then still nothing you can do with the extra wire from the driver

 

[demevalos]

4 pin xlr has a 5th connection for a shield if your cable is actually shielded but if its already wired with TS male plugs then still nothing you can do with the extra wire from the driver

I haven't done the mod yet. I'll be using TRS female jacks in the mod, so I was thinking of wiring them like this - Tip = Channel+, Ring = shield, Sleeve = Channel-, so that way I can use my already-built dual TRS 3.5mm (which is only wired on Tip and Sleeve) to 4 pin XLR cable, and then can also build a new cable that uses the shield as well.

 

[439598]

I haven't done the mod yet. I'll be using TRS female jacks in the mod, so I was thinking of wiring them like this - Tip = Channel+, Ring = shield, Sleeve = Channel-, so that way I can use my already-built dual TRS 3.5mm (which is only wired on Tip and Sleeve) to 4 pin XLR cable, and then can also build a new cable that uses the shield as well.

If you connect the TRS jack's ring to that shield wire that will connect it to the sleeve of TS plug carrying the negative signal, which you dont want to do.
If you want to do something with TRS jack's extra connection I recommend connecting both ring and sleeve to negative side of driver, so at least you will have a very slightly lower impedance connection for negative signal since both contacts will connect to the plugs sleeve.

 

[demevalos]

If you connect the TRS jack's ring to that shield wire that will connect it to the sleeve of TS plug carrying the negative signal, which you dont want to do.
If you want to do something with TRS jack's extra connection I recommend connecting both ring and sleeve to negative side of driver, so at least you will have a very slightly lower impedance connection for negative signal since both contacts will connect to the plugs sleeve.

Ahh now that's a good idea. Thanks a bunch for the help!

 

[elwappo99]

Hi all,

Just thought I'd post this to help anyone who might want to disassemble the sliding kits off of the T1's for whatever reason.

I am able to remove the outer cover, by sliding in 2 pieces of thin plastic (i.e. credit cards, etc) cut to 1.5cm width; between the outer cover and the internal slider piece.
Once fully wedged in there, it will flex the outer cover enough to disengage the clips and allow the outer cover to be slid down and off. This should not result in the clips being damaged, but I wouldn't recommend doing it multiple times though.

This shows how the slider pieces somewhat disassembled:
https://s4.postimg.org/qbnylrrlp/IMG_6110+[1280x768].jpg

This shows how I placed the plastic strips to disengage the clips and slide the outer cover off:
https://s4.postimg.org/7i25ortdp/IMG_6108+[1280x768].jpg


Cheers

Can anyone upload these again? Thanks

 

[XLR1]

EDITED 11/2/19 - I just got a Beyerdynamic A2 Headphone Amplifier. It is a few years old and I bought it used (since it was reasonably priced and quality amps tend to last for many, many years). I bought it to have multiple setups in my house and in particularly to use with my Audeze LCD-3 classic. I have read that they are a great match. They are! The A2 is a very good amp, very clean with a large sound stage. Consistent with reviews I have read, the amp is slightly bright. However, the Audeze LCD-3C is slightly dark; treble is all there but a little repressed. IMO, these two mate extremely well.

I have a T-1 Gen 1 that does not get much use, but of course I had to try it with the A2. They work great together. IMO, my T-1 Gen 1 has always had a spike at 8k which the amp does not fully correct. Once I EQed down the spike a little, the paring is outstanding! The T-1 will get a lot more use going forward.

 

[Bruc3]

Guys im about to pickup a used T1 gen1 for $350 USD, it has serial 64xx.

Is this a descent buy?

Anything I should be aware of with the 64xx serial?

Owner claims he bought in 2014.

 

[trellus]

Guys im about to pickup a used T1 gen1 for $350 USD, it has serial 64xx.

Is this a descent buy?

Anything I should be aware of with the 64xx serial?

Owner claims he bought in 2014.

Hopefully someone else can chime in about the serial number range, as I don't know anything about mine, but I bought mine used (serial number 48xx) for $390 just last month, and that seemed to be itself slightly below what I saw other used gen 1 T1's going for even on Head-Fi, and they were higher on eBay.

So, I would consider $350 to be an excellent buy, with the caveat being the condition of the earpads, headband and cups, and sliders, basically, the condition. Mine came in pretty good condition overall.

 

[XLR1]

If in very good condition, that is an excellent buy, IMO.

 

[Bruc3]

Thanks guys, I will check the headphone thoroughly, if all looks good I will purchase.

I also just purchased replacement earpads anyway, as I am sensitive to use earpads someone has already used.

 

[eeagle]

Guys im about to pickup a used T1 gen1 for $350 USD, it has serial 64xx.

Is this a descent buy?

Anything I should be aware of with the 64xx serial?

Owner claims he bought in 2014.

I've been following this thread since buying my T1 Gen 1 new in Jun 2015 and not noted any S/N related sound difference discussions. My S/N is much higher 23xxx on left earpiece. It also came in a nice silver metal covered carrying case which I rarely use as the T1's are used on a daily basis. The gen 1 has a permanent 6.5mm SE connector/cable and a real leather headband that the gen 2 does not have. I would guess the lower S/N would mean the HP you are considering is older than my 2015 model, or that lower S/Ns were marketed outside the US. I would say the price being asked is a fair one.

The BeyerDynamic Amiron Home Tesla 250 Ohm Headphone has recently sold for $299 by BuyDig.com in the US and is an exceptional deal for a new Tesla technology HP.