There are actually six wires running through the cable. This allows you to terminate into single-ended, 3-pin XLR or 4-pin XLR. This link ought to help you figure out which wires are which and how to wire an appropriate balanced connection. (See post 10 for explanation (linked) and 12 for pictures.)
Thanks
Have they change cable since then?
Because I can't discern those colors in my T1's cable (I haven't cut the plug though).
I can discern a white wire (instead of green) an I think that I saw a blue wire too.
As a side note,
Has anybody used t1 with nfb28? How do they match?
I appreciate a thicker midrange and maybe a more impact full bass? (my current setup is schiit modi/vali)
Thanks
Have they change cable since then?
Because I can't discern those colors in my T1's cable (I haven't cut the plug though).
I can discern a white wire (instead of green) an I think that I saw a blue wire too.
You don't seem to have it open yet... No worries, you're almost there.
Take the plastic outer shield (where your finger is in the above pic) and just slide it back up the cable toward the headphone. (You don't have to cut anything yet, it will just slide right up.)
From there you should be able to open the black plastic undershield covering the cable connection (The thing with the window to the red wire in the above pic.) I believe it just slides up in the same direction, or it might just come right off.
Then you should be able to see all the wiring shown in the link.
When you eventually do re-terminate, you may want to cut 8"-10" further up the wire so you can create a balanced to single-ended adaptor with the bottom part... it will just allow more versatility, in case you want to pair, say, a single-ended OTL tube amp with it somewhere down the road... you won't have to re-terminate again. Just a thought.
Hi new T1 user here. So I saw a lot of people talk about that T1 is a fairly easy to drive can compare to other hard to drive can like HD800 even T1 has 600 ohm impedance. Someone said that the power requirement of T1 is similar to the HD650/600. But there are also a lot poeple saying that T1 is very hard to drive. So I kind of feel confused about this. The amplifier I am using now is project ember, not sure if anyone is using it to drive T1. I am very satisfied to the result already, just curious about what's the main differences between a fully driven T1 and a iPhone driven T1.......And I am also not sure if project ember is powerful enough to give a fully driven sound.
With all my equipment, my T1's are harder to drive than my HD800's, but not by much. I'd say the T1's are just slightly quieter on average, requiring a tad more volume and juice to get to the same db level. If you have a decent amp that has an extremely low (inaudible) noise floor, and is allowing you to power the cans without stretching the volume much, you're fine. Don't read too much in to the posts that claim you need super expensive gear to power these things, you really don't. In-fact, an O2 amp is sufficient.
You don't seem to have it open yet... No worries, you're almost there.
Take the plastic outer shield (where your finger is in the above pic) and just slide it back up the cable toward the headphone. (You don't have to cut anything yet, it will just slide right up.)
From there you should be able to open the black plastic undershield covering the cable connection (The thing with the window to the red wire in the above pic.) I believe it just slides up in the same direction, or it might just come right off.
Then you should be able to see all the wiring shown in the link.
When you eventually do re-terminate, you may want to cut 8"-10" further up the wire so you can create a balanced to single-ended adaptor with the bottom part... it will just allow more versatility, in case you want to pair, say, a single-ended OTL tube amp with it somewhere down the road... you won't have to re-terminate again. Just a thought.
With all my equipment, my T1's are harder to drive than my HD800's, but not by much. I'd say the T1's are just slightly quieter on average, requiring a tad more volume and juice to get to the same db level. If you have a decent amp that has an extremely low (inaudible) noise floor, and is allowing you to power the cans without stretching the volume much, you're fine. Don't read too much in to the posts that claim you need super expensive gear to power these things, you really don't. In-fact, an O2 amp is sufficient.
You don't seem to have it open yet... No worries, you're almost there.
Take the plastic outer shield (where your finger is in the above pic) and just slide it back up the cable toward the headphone. (You don't have to cut anything yet, it will just slide right up.)
From there you should be able to open the black plastic undershield covering the cable connection (The thing with the window to the red wire in the above pic.) I believe it just slides up in the same direction, or it might just come right off.
Then you should be able to see all the wiring shown in the link.
When you eventually do re-terminate, you may want to cut 8"-10" further up the wire so you can create a balanced to single-ended adaptor with the bottom part... it will just allow more versatility, in case you want to pair, say, a single-ended OTL tube amp with it somewhere down the road... you won't have to re-terminate again. Just a thought.
Would like to share something about T1. My ican amplifier have arrived yesterday . Will share the DETAILED impressions with them this Weekend.
But before that I was just fiddeling with my T1's , using FiioE17, they are just OK with them not going into sound-qualities but ya in regarding to Soundstage ,just OK.
But when coupled directly with DAC which is here in this case is Xonar DX they seem to be having a very huge sound-stage in all directions(horizantal/Vertical){Xonar doesnt have good depth so nothing in particular for that] . As far my AD700 which many know have one of the biggest soundstage , it seems to tumble them down by a lil margin.
Have read in forums that T1 are one headphones that behave differently with different sources/amps but have seen & expiernced now they change drastically .
With Fiio E17 plugged in via optical from Xonar Dx the soundstage is ok ok but directly via Xonar really Great and airy.
I am thinking how they will behave with O2 as genrally O2 has been said to give the sound quality of your source only with no changes at all so coupling with them can provide T1 a great Soundstage....
There is a chance that I go with nfb28. Currently I'm craving forum for more information about nfb28.
At the moment, I'm using schiit modi/vali. I have used westone 4r for more than 3yrs, so I wish to have a little more thick notes in midrange and bass. In the past, I was wished that my w4r sounded a little thinner, with a little less bass
A little late in the game, but better late than never. I received by T1 today, and can't take 'em off my head. Powering them with Geek Out 1000 on my MacBook Pro, fortified with Amarra...
Miles Davis, Kind of Blue at 192/24 is sublime... juuust sublime... And Geek Out 1000 seems to be handling all 600ohms of this baby with authority, and without breaking a sweat.
I have been thinking about re-terminating the cable with a four-pin xlr connector for use with a couple up and coming desk-top amps, but I can figure out how I can bring myself to do any violence to this beautiful looking and excellent sounding cable...
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