[fleasbaby]

   
 
Great! I love looking at pictures of woodies.

 
I figured, so I included a few group shots for you...the more the merrier

 

[Rauliki]

Pictures! Pictures!

There's nothing to show really. I will surely show them when they are ready.

 

[fleasbaby]

...just did a side by side with my favorite Grandaddy song...the SennGrados wipe the floor with the Magnum X on it...there's a deep, rolling bassline that barely shows on the Magnums, but is rich and effortless on the Senns. Clearly the SennGrados carry bass better than the Magnums...
 
/img/vimeo_logo.png 

 

[7keys]

   
I figured, so I included a few group shots for you...the more the merrier

When I say woodies I mean tone-wood cups.

 

[wje]

Greetings y'all. I've had a bit of a sabbatical from the scene. I've actually had some headphones for more than 3 or 4 months when normally, that would be an eternity for me.

On my workbench, I'm still reminded of the alternative drivers that have been tried and utilized by the many members here. Living on the edge is where it's at. I think my mission during my tenure here has consistently been the same - If it hasn't been modified, then it (the product) might not be reaching its true potential.

Part of my sabbatical was very intentional. Why?, you might ask. This site has been a lovely site, but I seem to always be distracted by the For Sale threads - specifically the headphones for sale. I needed to slow my spending. A few other hobbies needed some attention and a few dollars to be toss over to them, so I've achieved many of those goals too.

Meanwhile, I want to encourage many of you to keep up the great work here. No idea is a bad idea. We all learn from them. No question is a silly question. Many of us might have experienced something or a situation and can capably give you an answer so that you might save time and a few bucks too.

Now, if I could just get some areas of the forum locked from my profile - I could stay into the fun stuff of modifying, building, tweaking etc. and not stray off course into the F/S forums.

We can always hope ...

 

[7keys]

We missed you, where have you been?
 
 You also need to test more drivers in wood cups. 

 

[Rauliki]

Welcome back wje
I'm looking forward for new inspiration in the best do-it-yourself headphones thread.

 

[Soundsgoodtome]

I'm looking at the PX100-ii drivers and they seem to be glued at certain clip points on the face...do I bust it out or is there a more graceful way to get these suckers out?

Also I'm a bit of a newbie to this DIY audio but to the type of solder for the cables matter? I have lead-free solder in a small spool and some donor cables.

 

[No_One411]

  I'm looking at the PX100-ii drivers and they seem to be glued at certain clip points on the face...do I bust it out or is there a more graceful way to get these suckers out?

Also I'm a bit of a newbie to this DIY audio but to the type of solder for the cables matter? I have lead-free solder in a small spool and some donor cables.

 
The drivers are glued in fairly well at the beginning. I was able to get them out pretty easily after wedging a flat-head screwdriver in between the two sections. If you pry them carefully and at "interval" sections, they shouldn't be too much of a problem. 
 
BE CAREFUL about the ultra thin signal wires when you're removing the drivers though. Only gotcha while removing them. 
 
Regarding your other question...I try not to think too much about small stuff like that. However, lead-free solder is a pain to work with in my experience since it may not adhere as well as you'd like to the metal contact. 
 
The Cardas Eucletic solder is pretty nice to work with, so you can splurge on some if you foresee future projects in the future. 
 
Hope this helps!
 
EDIT: Wje has a good/better explanation on how to remove drivers on the 4th page. 
 
http://www.head-fi.org/t/690682/the-non-grado-driver-grado-thread/45#post_10023026

 

[Soundsgoodtome]

   
The drivers are glued in fairly well at the beginning. I was able to get them out pretty easily after wedging a flat-head screwdriver in between the two sections. If you pry them carefully and at "interval" sections, they shouldn't be too much of a problem. 
 
BE CAREFUL about the ultra thin signal wires when you're removing the drivers though. Only gotcha while removing them.
 
EDIT: Wje has a good/better explanation on how to remove drivers on the 4th page. 
 
http://www.head-fi.org/t/690682/the-non-grado-driver-grado-thread/45#post_10023026

Thank you for the fast response!
 
I worked the glue as best I can by putting a flathead between and also to the sides and up but I'm trying to figure where to jam the flathead between the driver and the cups/backing. Is it directly under the face plastic where those openings are with the glue or past the gap and between the back housing and the slimmer inner portion? Hope that makes sense..

*edit: got it! After looking at WJE's photos I knew where to jam the flathead.

 

[No_One411]

  Thank you for the fast response!
 
I worked the glue as best I can by putting a flathead between and also to the sides and up but I'm trying to figure where to jam the flathead between the driver and the cups/backing. Is it directly under the face plastic where those openings are with the glue or past the gap and between the back housing and the slimmer inner portion? Hope that makes sense..

*edit: got it! After looking at WJE's photos I knew where to jam the flathead.

Glad to hear you worked it out. 
 
Wje's photos were really helpful for me too. Once you see what the driver looks like, it's fairly clear where the pieces split. 
 
Good luck with your build! 

 

[Soundsgoodtome]

Here's where in got so far. I snagged the drivers from a new kit so they need burn in. I plugged them in to hear them out stock and found the bass just a bit more than what I want but I'm hoping burn in handles that.



Cups were made by 7keys, really something to appreciate up close in person. Depending on light angle it can look a light brown to a more pronounced light brown color wood.

The PX100-II drivers fit like a glove although I'm not sure if its suppose to be snug or somewhat loose and held in place by tape?

I'll be using some donor cables from a hifiman custom cable. I'll just cut the ends and solder it to the drivers directly...any ideas on relief at the cups? Or maybe something inside the cup?

Right now i have Avio headbands but I'm thinking some Sony replacements might do the cups and build more justice.

 

[JoeDoe]

Here's where in got so far. I snagged the drivers from a new kit so they need burn in. I plugged them in to hear them out stock and found the bass just a bit more than what I want but I'm hoping burn in handles that.



Cups were made by 7keys, really something to appreciate up close in person. Depending on light angle it can look a light brown to a more pronounced light brown color wood.

The PX100-II drivers fit like a glove although I'm not sure if its suppose to be snug or somewhat loose and held in place by tape?

I'll be using some donor cables from a hifiman custom cable. I'll just cut the ends and solder it to the drivers directly...any ideas on relief at the cups? Or maybe something inside the cup?

Right now i have Auvio headbands but I'm thinking some Sony replacements might do the cups and build more justice.

 
Nice man!

 

[fleasbaby]

Here's where in got so far. I snagged the drivers from a new kit so they need burn in. I plugged them in to hear them out stock and found the bass just a bit more than what I want but I'm hoping burn in handles that.



Cups were made by 7keys, really something to appreciate up close in person. Depending on light angle it can look a light brown to a more pronounced light brown color wood.

The PX100-II drivers fit like a glove although I'm not sure if its suppose to be snug or somewhat loose and held in place by tape?

I'll be using some donor cables from a hifiman custom cable. I'll just cut the ends and solder it to the drivers directly...any ideas on relief at the cups? Or maybe something inside the cup?

Right now i have Avio headbands but I'm thinking some Sony replacements might do the cups and build more justice.

 
For relief at the cups, use a small cable-tie cinched tight around the cable inside the cup. Protects your soldering from being yanked and pulled at whenever the cable moves. Its what Grado does inside all of their cans

 

[TroyS]

The bass can be a bit to much at times, connected straight to my Mac mini they sound great except for the really bass heavy songs. If I use my little bear tube amp I will use a tube with the least amount of bass to match the mini macs direct output.