[JaiSAn]

The second purchase as future spares of the previously mentioned drivers arrived today.
I'm amazed that they are matched so perfectly.

NB. My OCD coloured the magnet to determine Left and Right, it arrived as plain silver.

 

[elaptev]

Jason, do you use yellow pillows sen 440?
And how do other pillows work?
When the driver is removed from the ear by 4-5 mm, does the bass remain?
I put the headphones on burnout, we'll see in a week.

Hurray! I found out who stole my bass.
The holes that cover the rear of the driver do not allow air to pass through at all. I carefully hooked this paper strip by the edge and opened two holes. And lo and behold, the bass appeared, and even what a delicious one.

This mod is reversible.you need to find felt or felt, the bass can be customized to your taste. It is important that the fabric is breathable. The paper that is used in the drain, on an adhesive basis, does not pass air.

 

[elaptev]

My drivers are burning out, the bass is getting bigger every day. I'll probably leave only one hole open.

 

[Themilkman46290]

My drivers are burning out, the bass is getting bigger every day. I'll probably leave only one hole open.

You can also try using different films and tapes over those holes, you can modify the amount and tone of the bass.
Like paper bandage tape, I've use felt with very carefully glued edges in the past.

 

[elaptev]

I think I will go in this direction in the future. Now I'm starting to like everything. These drivers are superior to my sr60, sr80 , in resolution. But the sr80s are more musical, you just listen to music on them.

I put this together completely from scratch, it cost about $ 25.

 

[JaiSAn]

Jason, do you use yellow pillows sen 440?
And how do other pillows work?

I tried all the Grado style AliExpress pads and Yaxi pads too...still ended up using these Sennheiser HD414 yellow pads.
I purchased 3 pairs in the drawer as spares.....

Glad you found your bass, give it more burning or usage time and it should increase even more.....

My drivers are burning out, the bass is getting bigger every day. I'll probably leave only one hole open.

Have you tried peeling off those black center round felt ?

 

[RenEh]

One of the SR325e drivers died in the custom wood cups, I began to search high and low for a pair of replacements after being diasppointed by the Sennheiser PX100 (original) replacement drivers.

Forget all those hyped so called high end pretty drivers at high prices, I'd prefer not to risk spending that much on drivers which may not be to my liking, most are hyped by the sellers and affiliates to promote sales and though aesthetically very nice, I'll be listening to them instead of staring at them.

Then I saw a relatively inexpensive replacement drivers on a certain DIY company at half the price, requested more information but received no reply so I began to continue my search.
To my surprise, I found a pair of same looking drivers on Aliexpress and purchased it at less than half the price of the DIY company.....

They arrived in less than two Weeks and in my opinion, they are very slightly warmer, slightly more bass and less fatiguing than the SR325e drivers. I can listen to these for long hours whereas the SR325e last 30-45 minutes before I switch headphones.

I like these drivers better than the original Grado drivers......twenty Dollars will not hurt the wallet if it's not suitable but more importantly you'll not feel been scammed for loads-of-money by those pretty driver sellers when they breaks or have issues.

NB: Not sure if it's against Forum rules, if it does contravene, please delete the link... here's where I made my purchases, one after another. https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005001441907681.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.0.0.21ef18020m2EUx

Thanks for the find! I destroyed a used pair of sr60 drivers cleaning them, so I needed a good replacement.

Total cost was $15.21 USD shipped.

I wasn’t a huge fan of the stock tuning, I think the ksc75 has better tuning, and my biggest issue was the poor resolution of the driver so I’m hoping this is an upgrade!

Does anyone have resources on how to install this driver and replace the sr60 one? I’ve disassembled the SR60, but all the guides I’ve seen to remove the driver involves dremeling and destroying the cups.

 

[JaiSAn]

Thanks for the find! I destroyed a used pair of sr60 drivers cleaning them, so I needed a good replacement.

Total cost was $15.21 USD shipped.

I wasn’t a huge fan of the stock tuning, I think the ksc75 has better tuning, and my biggest issue was the poor resolution of the driver so I’m hoping this is an upgrade!

Does anyone have resources on how to install this driver and replace the sr60 one? I’ve disassembled the SR60, but all the guides I’ve seen to remove the driver involves dremeling and destroying the cups.

Beginning of the video shows the guy pressing the drivers out, it looks very easy but........they're glued together, best to take a hair dryer (not a lighter as in the video) and heat the area where the driver contacts the cup.
Be careful not to overheat and melt the plastic cups, only warm up to soften the glue, press intermittently to see if the driver will budge.
When putting back together, best to press fit, with some electrical tape if necessary, avoid glue in case you'd need to disassemble again.

 

[RenEh]

Beginning of the video shows the guy pressing the drivers out, it looks very easy but........they're glued together, best to take a hair dryer (not a lighter as in the video) and heat the area where the driver contacts the cup.
Be careful not to overheat and melt the plastic cups, only warm up to soften the glue, press intermittently to see if the driver will budge.
When putting back together, best to press fit, with some electrical tape if necessary, avoid glue in case you'd need to disassemble again.

My drivers finally arrived would you happen to know which solder point is ground on them? I’d like to make sure the phase is correct.

 

[RenEh]

My drivers finally arrived would you happen to know which solder point is ground on them? I’d like to make sure the phase is correct.

I ended up just taking a guess and made it consistent. Anyways It's going to go for 100 hours of break in. So far it seems more detailed than the SR60 driver, which is good, but the mids are all sucked out, not good. Hopefully break in will fix that.

If you cup the drivers with your hands over the back of the headphones, they sound more full and correct. The driver is a clone of the driver for the MW60 which a closed back headphone, so perhaps that is why. This might need a bit more tinkering. Right now the sound signature is very bright, sucked out mids and no bass. I'm using these Geekria pads. There isn't really any spacial presence with all that treble either. Very odd.

 

[JaiSAn]

My drivers finally arrived would you happen to know which solder point is ground on them? I’d like to make sure the phase is correct.

Same as the original drivers Ground on the left solder point....................I taped the back to dampen them but not blocked any of the holes.

 

[evanescent]

Forget all those hyped so called high end pretty drivers at high prices, I'd prefer not to risk spending that much on drivers which may not be to my liking, most are hyped by the sellers and affiliates to promote sales and though aesthetically very nice, I'll be listening to them instead of staring at them.

The relatively expensive, 149 GBP / $200 USD, EllevenAcoustica drivers I use outclass drivers on well-regarded thousand dollar headphones. So it really depends what you're comparing them to.

 

[JaiSAn]

So it really depends what you're comparing them to.

Different strokes for different folks........................logically, of course it's only compared to the drivers which they'd replaced, in my case it's the SR325e.

Drivers are subjective, to a deaf person a $10 headphone is just as good as as $1k headphone.
To a poor person, affordable drivers which are pleasurable to listen are better than $1k headphones which they'll never be able to compare.
Those who can afford $1k headphones, will never admit their headphones are inferior to cheaper alternatives, it's called snobbery.

I, for one, am not going to purchase US$200 drivers to repair an old headphone which I have not actually experienced, buying due to others touting the product means one can be easily manipulate/mislead, naive to believe everything one reads.
$20 drivers are negligible, if it's not to one's taste then simply bin them but what is those $200 drivers are not to one's taste ?

 

[DomDOMT]

Trying to revive a dead thread here, I am curious on building a Grado, but looking at this thread deepens my curiosity on Non Senn Grados.

I am thinking of using T1/880 drivers or salvaged drivers from China, or even Audio Technica drivers.

I wanna go with walnut/aluminum, with shallow cup and Alcantara/Leather band as my initial design.

Thinking as it is a thread for no Grado drivers, wish anyone might can tell me some tale of non Senn grados.

 

[7keys]

There are many start at beginning and good luck.