[dhananjay]

Hello,
I am new to hifi audio. I have srm353 and L700.

What is ""Input-bypassing parallel output (RCA)""
I want use srm353 as preamp through line out of arm 353. Will the output through line out be processed one through srm 353 ?
Thanks in advance.

 

[legopart]

I need some new pads for sr-202, my dried, and Stax pads cost too much so I don't want to buy it. what to do?

 

[BenF]

Hello,
I am new to hifi audio. I have srm353 and L700.

What is ""Input-bypassing parallel output (RCA)""
I want use srm353 as preamp through line out of arm 353. Will the output through line out be processed one through srm 353 ?
Thanks in advance.

It means that you can connect your DAC to the RCA inputs of this amp, and then use its RCA output to daisy chain another amp - both amps are being fed by the same DAC simultaneously.

 

[dhananjay]

It means that you can connect your DAC to the RCA inputs of this amp, and then use its RCA output to daisy chain another amp - both amps are being fed by the same DAC simultaneously.

BenF

Thanks for clarity.

 

[Moak]

Does anyone have experience with the Stax Lambda Classic Pro and amplifier SRD-7 Professional? Can this set be recommended?
I'm thinking about buying this set in good used condition. It should cost $ 300.
He came on the market in 1992, is about 30 years old. It's still a lot of money for such an old part, but the sound should be great. Only, what if he is broken? Is it easy to fix? Are there any spare parts in the market?
I've had a SR60 before. He was also very good.
But I think that the Stax Lambda Classic Pro is a number better?

 

[Kitchener]

Does anyone have experience with the Stax Lambda Classic Pro and amplifier SRD-7 Professional? Can this set be recommended?
I'm thinking about buying this set in good used condition. It should cost $ 300.
He came on the market in 1992, is about 30 years old. It's still a lot of money for such an old part, but the sound should be great. Only, what if he is broken? Is it easy to fix? Are there any spare parts in the market?
I've had a SR60 before. He was also very good.
But I think that the Stax Lambda Classic Pro is a number better?

It seems most people are lucky with vintage Stax setups, I however will never fork over a dime for a vintage Stax setup.

I bought a used Lambda Pro with an SRM-313 amp. It was my first Stax and it blew me away.
For a month.
Then one of the earspeakers crapped out (dust in the driver or something) and I was left with a useless $200 pile of plastic.

Do not expect that you will be able to repair a busted Stax earspeaker. You need a completely dust free environment, glue and luck.

And you can’t buy a replacement earspeaker to swap with your busted earpspeaker. Because the moment you start asking for it, people will shriek about how all earspeaker sets are in fact matched sets and breaking up a set is lunacy, bedlam ensues.

Do yourself a favor and stay the hell away from vintage Stax. It is an inevitable multi-hundred dollar heartache waiting to happen.

Here’s what you do if you want to get started with Stax: save up some money, go on ebay, find a reputable seller in Japan and import a SRS-3100 set. Don’t buy vintage.

 

[legopart]

Stax Lambda could be a great heaphones.
but used and vintage pair could make you lots of trouble:
- srd-7 no sound good at all.
- good energizer cost lots of money. and for used srm-1 you have to recap it (and it still not the best).
- the cleaning of using pair, lots of particals inside from dried felt
- headband could be damage.
- used pad not available to restore or wash (washing will destroy them)
- new replaced pads cost more then $150
- the pads covering the screws + the pads glued the the cans with strong glue and they too much near to the driver net.
- trying to clean them may cause to damage the driver or loose of the back wool
- if you not have any practice or past knowledge about vintage headphones, recommend you not to take the risk
*dust vacuum cleaner not recommended on the drivers at all! and on the headphones it could suck the wool inside of it.
- srd-7 pro, is pretty rare to find (as pro), its the last transformer, that can use Stax heaphones with speaker amp.
but still it not quality enough and wast too much amp energy to receive some good quality from the headphones.
- srd-7 is pretty dangerous tool compare to Srm's energizer, its not including any circuit to protect you or the headphones from high voltage.
-the unbalance problem and past storage, some pairs could loose them bass or one side could low the volume to half.

the best recommendation is the L300 (as suggested SRS-3100) new pair, that cost the less then other models (L500, L700) but they are the best for the price for Stax headphones.

 

[SHAMuuu]

Agree on the points on the vintage sets... but with an " * "

The Lambda are very risky sets with deteriorating foams , and the drivers are so thin (I think 1.5 - 2microns, and 1 micron for professional), when you even breathe on them they move.
Usually most have the black mesh on earpad missing, so dust can get in.
I got one DOA. very sad, but got refund. Also was lucky enough to score Σ NB for cheap, but required some cleanup, which was no fun at all. And they work.

In saying that, i think two vintage sets may be less risky if gotten on the cheap.
sr5 (6 micron) or sr5nb (2micron same as sr-xmkIII) IIRC or sr-xmkIII are usually problem free and can get them for cheap, and with an srd-6/7 they are ok.
i was able to score sr5nb on here, and slapped some 007 pads for a poorman's 007

Unless you like them for their design and looks like I did, as I find the sr5nb/ΣNB sweet lookin,

At the end of the day, with my music tastes, i prefer the biocellulose dynamic headphones, though vintage stax have nice mids and speed like my dt48/480

IMHO/ YMMV

 

[Audientis]

I just picked up an SRM-T1 and it sounds good, other than the balance changes with the potentiometer setting. As an example, if a solo vocalist is centered with the knob at the 12 o'clock setting, the image shifts to the right as I lower the volume and to the left as I raise it.

Toobs are new and biased. I'm planning on replacing the caps at a minimum, but am wondering what to do about the imbalance. New pot? Are there even replacement pots available for this unit?

 

[JimL11]

The SRM-T1 has a dual volume control with a friction clutch between them - the front and back part of the volume knob are separate, so if you hold onto the back volume knob and turn the front part you can adjust the relative volume between them.

 

[Audientis]

I understand the dual function of the volume knob. It's just a PITA to have to use both hands every time I adjust the volume. The channel imbalance is not static between the channels; it changes every time I move the knob...

 

[Moak]

Thank you for your clear, unambiguous opinions, which clearly go in one direction. Well, you quickly convinced me that I would rather save on the new set Stax SRS-3100. Thank you for your helpful tips!

BR
Olaf

 

[Keithpgdrb]

I understand the dual function of the volume knob. It's just a PITA to have to use both hands every time I adjust the volume. The channel imbalance is not static between the channels; it changes every time I move the knob...

. Clean the pots. Deoxit.

 

[legopart]

Agree on the points on the vintage sets... but with an " * "

The Lambda are very risky sets with deteriorating foams , and the drivers are so thin (I think 1.5 - 2microns, and 1 micron for professional), when you even breathe on them they move.
Usually most have the black mesh on earpad missing, so dust can get in.
I got one DOA. very sad, but got refund. Also was lucky enough to score Σ NB for cheap, but required some cleanup, which was no fun at all. And they work.

In saying that, i think two vintage sets may be less risky if gotten on the cheap.
sr5 (6 micron) or sr5nb (2micron same as sr-xmkIII) IIRC or sr-xmkIII are usually problem free and can get them for cheap, and with an srd-6/7 they are ok.
i was able to score sr5nb on here, and slapped some 007 pads for a poorman's 007

Unless you like them for their design and looks like I did, as I find the sr5nb/ΣNB sweet lookin,

At the end of the day, with my music tastes, i prefer the biocellulose dynamic headphones, though vintage stax have nice mids and speed like my dt48/480

IMHO/ YMMV

I inhale the remain of this partials after removing the pads (no vacuum used ).
I don't know how to restore the front and the back mesh, don't know which material to use.

the mesh from new pads distort the sound on them, the new pads too (I tried ep-507), not tryed ep-234 (for 202 303 404) becoase they expensive
and again the price for this pads rise, I bough my pair from some japanies seller for $64 and now they double the price
I still search for the cheaper offer, not like so much the ep-507 feels too sintetic

 

[legopart]

I just picked up an SRM-T1 and it sounds good, other than the balance changes with the potentiometer setting. As an example, if a solo vocalist is centered with the knob at the 12 o'clock setting, the image shifts to the right as I lower the volume and to the left as I raise it.

Toobs are new and biased. I'm planning on replacing the caps at a minimum, but am wondering what to do about the imbalance. New pot? Are there even replacement pots available for this unit?

Tube amps they are something spacial,
unfortunately the tubes cant hold for long period of time.
do the unbalance goes from the amp or from the headphones?