[Sound Eq]

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[Sound Eq]

Hello,
You can measure its dimensions with precision and design it with a 3d program and print it. It is possible to exist in web as a ready 3d design.

wonder from where that part can be bought as well, as I think I might need 2 of those for future needs, as the whole asselmbly looks so flimsy to me that I like to have extra parts

 

[Ad720]

wonder from where that part can be bought as well, as I think I might need 2 of those for future needs, as the whole asselmbly looks so flimsy to me that I like to have extra parts

I have been looking for a place that will make the 3d model if I send the part.

 

[Ad720]

Finally got my Lamda pros up and running.

Anyway, I'm wondering if anyone can weigh on what the next step is Energizer-wise. I'm using a 252a on both my 202s and SR Pros and I'm feeling like I want a little more oomph - finding myself with the volume at or close to 80% most of the time. Does finding an older SRM-1 make sense or is the 353 the logical next step? I've read some mixed things about the T1.

 

[JimL11]

Finally got my Lamda pros up and running.

Anyway, I'm wondering if anyone can weigh on what the next step is Energizer-wise. I'm using a 252a on both my 202s and SR Pros and I'm feeling like I want a little more oomph - finding myself with the volume at or close to 80% most of the time. Does finding an older SRM-1 make sense or is the 353 the logical next step? I've read some mixed things about the T1.

The T1 series works fine for Lambda headphones, in fact the consensus is that they are excellent for those phones. Not sure what negative things you've read about the T1 but the negative comments were most likely when paired with the SR-007, which needs more drive than the stock T1 can provide.

 

[The Socialist Nerd]

How practical is one of these lower-end Stax systems for school library usage? I am worried that pumping out Donald Byrd at the music library will scare the hell out of my fellow students here...

 

[tigon_ridge]

How practical is one of these lower-end Stax systems for school library usage? I am worried that pumping out Donald Byrd at the music library will scare the hell out of my fellow students here...

Stax headphones are as open as open can possibly get. Even with one side covered, the other side can still sound like a mini desktop speaker. I think that answers your question.

 

[VRacer-111]

How practical is one of these lower-end Stax systems for school library usage? I am worried that pumping out Donald Byrd at the music library will scare the hell out of my fellow students here...

There is one that will work well for your situation: SR-003 Mk2 with CES-A1 sealing cover kit...
https://staxaudio.com/earspeaker/sr-003mk2
https://staxaudio.com/earpad/stax-ces-a1

Nice portable system with the SRM-D10...
https://staxaudio.com/system/stax-d1003

 

[The Socialist Nerd]

There is one that will work well for your situation: SR-003 Mk2 with CES-A1 sealing cover kit...
https://staxaudio.com/earspeaker/sr-003mk2
https://staxaudio.com/earpad/stax-ces-a1

Nice portable system with the SRM-D10...
https://staxaudio.com/system/stax-d1003

Thanks so so much!

 

[Ad720]

The T1 series works fine for Lambda headphones, in fact the consensus is that they are excellent for those phones. Not sure what negative things you've read about the T1 but the negative comments were most likely when paired with the SR-007, which needs more drive than the stock T1 can provide.

Thank you for the input. I had read that the T1's output was low but like you said that could be in relation to the 007.

 

[legopart]

Hi, I want to recap my old Stax-srm1
I find that it have 2 pair that connected opposite serial connection (negative to negative sides) of 2 capacitors 220uF == one capcitor bipolar of 110uF
I though about the option to buy one 100uF capacitor instead of 2*220uF
For example https://www.ebay.com/itm/Nichicon-M...var=510472180384&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649
each capacitor like this having 10-20% mistake + high ESR

I think to connect in parallel some 0.1uF capacitor to each capacitor to get lower ESR .

at this moment I connect a regular capacitors as they should connected.

am I right?

 

[JimL11]

Hi, I want to recap my old Stax-srm1
I find that it have 2 pair that connected opposite serial connection (negative to negative sides) of 2 capacitors 220uF == one capcitor bipolar of 110uF
I though about the option to buy one 100uF capacitor instead of 2*220uF
For example https://www.ebay.com/itm/Nichicon-MUSE-BP-ES-Bi-Non-Polar-Bipolar-Capacitors-4-7uf-10uF-22uF-47uF-100uF/321588547877?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&var=510472180384&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649
each capacitor like this having 10-20% mistake + high ESR

I think to connect in parallel some 0.1uF capacitor to each capacitor to get lower ESR .

at this moment I connect a regular capacitors as they should connected.

am I right?

I have a schematic of the SRM1 Mk2, so I don't know if it is the same as your version, but as far as I can see, Stax did NOT use electrolytic caps in a serial connection, so I would not recommend you try to substitute a bipolar cap. I recommend that you either replace them cap for cap with the same value, or, if you wish, you can use a larger value cap since modern electrolytic are smaller in size for the same value than the old caps.

 

[legopart]

I have a schematic of the SRM1 Mk2, so I don't know if it is the same as your version, but as far as I can see, Stax did NOT use electrolytic caps in a serial connection, so I would not recommend you try to substitute a bipolar cap. I recommend that you either replace them cap for cap with the same value, or, if you wish, you can use a larger value cap since modern electrolytic are smaller in size for the same value than the old caps.

I made a lot of search to find some suitable scheme or photos for this one, but I found something else for srm-1
This is the one that I have

I even having the box and user manuel

 

[JimL11]

So you have the Mk2, but you really need to look at the bottom of the circuit board to see how those capacitors are connected. According to my schematic of the Mk2, the power supply capacitors are connected so that a 100 uf/400V cap sits between B+ and gnd, and another 100uf/400V cap between gnd and B-. There aren't any large electrolytic caps connected to form a bipolar cap, and in the power supply (which is the only place that such a large cap would belong), it doesn't make any sense to do so. I have NEVER, EVER seen a bipolar cap in a power supply. The safest thing to do is ALWAYS to replace with caps of the same value and in the same polarity.

 

[legopart]

So you have the Mk2, but you really need to look at the bottom of the circuit board to see how those capacitors are connected. According to my schematic of the Mk2, the power supply capacitors are connected so that a 100 uf/400V cap sits between B+ and gnd, and another 100uf/400V cap between gnd and B-. There aren't any large electrolytic caps connected to form a bipolar cap, and in the power supply (which is the only place that such a large cap would belong), it doesn't make any sense to do so. I have NEVER, EVER seen a bipolar cap in a power supply. The safest thing to do is ALWAYS to replace with caps of the same value and in the same polarity.

I sorry its my mistake.
I replace the 2 pairs of 220uF 10v (to 220uF 100v)
I put two arrows there, the negative part of this capacitors connected

The 2 pairs having the same condactive plat between them
This how I decide to mod it

I tested it and it works!,
But I still searching for the scheme to explain my self.
and plan to change this 2 pairs to bipolar capacitors

*I re-soldered any part on this board, and now want to make a good recap.
I got this board almost new!, but I know that this item is from the 80s