[Shure or bust]

Waiting on socas audio adapters to release.

 

[YonnyMestampo]

I recently got a L300 and the 252s
Still need to wait a few weeks to use the setup.
Since I watched so many people talking about how uncomfortable the earpads are, I also ordered some aftermarket ones designed for the Sony MDR 1000 and 3D printed adapters for those.

Now I wonder if I am going to need to change anything else from my setup.
I will use the Stax mostly for music and gaming, so my current setup is a Sound Blaster ZXR and I also have available but I would like not to use a Cambridge Audio Azur 340R because I have little room on the gaming computer and its a very bulky box.
But ofcourse if its really necessary so be it, I just prefer not to use it.
The question is if the ZXR can do the job or do I have to look at something different.
These Stax are my first electrostatic headphones so I have little idea if its going to work properly.

They are coming from Japan so its going to take at least 3 weeks to arrive to Norway.

 

[Bloos]

I recently got a L300 and the 252s
Still need to wait a few weeks to use the setup.
Since I watched so many people talking about how uncomfortable the earpads are, I also ordered some aftermarket ones designed for the Sony MDR 1000 and 3D printed adapters for those.

Now I wonder if I am going to need to change anything else from my setup.
I will use the Stax mostly for music and gaming, so my current setup is a Sound Blaster ZXR and I also have available but I would like not to use a Cambridge Audio Azur 340R because I have little room on the gaming computer and its a very bulky box.
But ofcourse if its really necessary so be it, I just prefer not to use it.
The question is if the ZXR can do the job or do I have to look at something different.
These Stax are my first electrostatic headphones so I have little idea if its going to work properly.

They are coming from Japan so its going to take at least 3 weeks to arrive to Norway.

I find that STAX headphones make DAC differences much more obvious, much more than any other
headphones I have. So, I would expect that the Cambridge Azur will do much better. (maybe place it vertically if there's no room around your desk?)
Also before using the adapters, try using the headphones without them.
Adapters that I've tried break too much of the seal and adversely effects the sound.
(stock pads aren't as uncomfortable if you flip the inner mesh around)

 

[Bloos]

Sorry this is going to be a long post with many questions.
ok so I've been using the Jameco wall transformer, but over the past few months, I saw a few posts (from at least two people) on the EarSpeakers subreddit about how their 252 amps stopped working, and they've been somewhat blaming the Jameco transformer.
In one case their amp stopped working after 5 months and the other (if I remember correctly) after 6 months.
Now I'm not sure if their broken amps are because of the Jameco transformers or because they weren't using surge protectors, or for some other reason. But this is giving me quite the scare.

So I'm just wondering if I anyone else using the Jameco wall transformer has had any issues. Or if you did not, how long have you been using it for?
I just hope it's not continuously causing small-amounts of damage leading up to an inevitable failure...

btw I measured the voltage output of the Jameco wall transformer (I have two of them, long story) and they were both around 18 volts (18.26V, don't remember the other exactly), not 12V.
But I heard that this is normal, that it measures higher because it is "unloaded" and will be lower when "loaded"/connected. (is this correct? does a multimeter not present a load?)

the transformer in question: http://www.jameco.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/Product_10001_10001_203036_-1
Just hope to hear that it is safe to use, or if not, a recommendation for North America that is almost guaranteed to be safe

 

[Hunki Chunki]

Just hope to hear that it is safe to use, or if not, a recommendation for North America that is almost guaranteed to be safe

This PSU works for me
https://www.sbooster.com/stax

 

[Pahani]

Sorry this is going to be a long post with many questions.
ok so I've been using the Jameco wall transformer, but over the past few months, I saw a few posts (from at least two people) on the EarSpeakers subreddit about how their 252 amps stopped working, and they've been somewhat blaming the Jameco transformer.
In one case their amp stopped working after 5 months and the other (if I remember correctly) after 6 months.
Now I'm not sure if their broken amps are because of the Jameco transformers or because they weren't using surge protectors, or for some other reason. But this is giving me quite the scare.

So I'm just wondering if I anyone else using the Jameco wall transformer has had any issues. Or if you did not, how long have you been using it for?
I just hope it's not continuously causing small-amounts of damage leading up to an inevitable failure...

btw I measured the voltage output of the Jameco wall transformer (I have two of them, long story) and they were both around 18 volts (18.26V, don't remember the other exactly), not 12V.
But I heard that this is normal, that it measures higher because it is "unloaded" and will be lower when "loaded"/connected. (is this correct? does a multimeter not present a load?)

the transformer in question: http://www.jameco.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/Product_10001_10001_203036_-1
Just hope to hear that it is safe to use, or if not, a recommendation for North America that is almost guaranteed to be safe

I believe that is the same Jameco transformer I've been using with my 2170 system. Been using it daily for slightly over a year now, zero issues. My entire PC setup (including headphone rig) is protected by an APC battery backup power conditioner.

 

[Tinkerer]

Sorry this is going to be a long post with many questions.
ok so I've been using the Jameco wall transformer, but over the past few months, I saw a few posts (from at least two people) on the EarSpeakers subreddit about how their 252 amps stopped working, and they've been somewhat blaming the Jameco transformer.
In one case their amp stopped working after 5 months and the other (if I remember correctly) after 6 months.
Now I'm not sure if their broken amps are because of the Jameco transformers or because they weren't using surge protectors, or for some other reason. But this is giving me quite the scare.

So I'm just wondering if I anyone else using the Jameco wall transformer has had any issues. Or if you did not, how long have you been using it for?
I just hope it's not continuously causing small-amounts of damage leading up to an inevitable failure...

btw I measured the voltage output of the Jameco wall transformer (I have two of them, long story) and they were both around 18 volts (18.26V, don't remember the other exactly), not 12V.
But I heard that this is normal, that it measures higher because it is "unloaded" and will be lower when "loaded"/connected. (is this correct? does a multimeter not present a load?)

the transformer in question: http://www.jameco.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/Product_10001_10001_203036_-1
Just hope to hear that it is safe to use, or if not, a recommendation for North America that is almost guaranteed to be safe

That supply is unregulated and rated for 18watts or 1.5amps at 12V. The Stax amp only draws about 4.5watts or .26amps when in operation. That means that the wall wart isn't having enough power used to draw it down to the proper voltage and that the amp is being overvolted and being fed 16VDC or 17VDC all the time. That's likely what's causing them to fail.

Just get a regulated 12VDC wall wart at the right polarity instead. Or get an regular one like used in external hard drives and make a little polarity reversal adapter out of a couple bucks in barrel connector parts. A regulated wall wart even makes the amp sound better, so it's a good investment of fifteen or twenty bucks, or even much cheaper if you have one laying around.

 

[YonnyMestampo]

I find that STAX headphones make DAC differences much more obvious, much more than any other
headphones I have. So, I would expect that the Cambridge Azur will do much better. (maybe place it vertically if there's no room around your desk?)
Also before using the adapters, try using the headphones without them.
Adapters that I've tried break too much of the seal and adversely effects the sound.
(stock pads aren't as uncomfortable if you flip the inner mesh around)

Tha's interesting because I made the adapter's order with the vents on as I watched videos where people say you have to break the seal.
Apparently if the seal is perfect the membrane can't move properly and you get less bass response.
I also thought that if the vents are not neccessary I can close them with some rubber.

I first saw this video comenting about it and then I did some searching on that problem I saw more people talking about it.

Minute 12:30 into the video

 

[miceblue]

At least in terms of measurements on an Audio Precision, breaking the seal just makes the 100 Hz bump more prominent, which may or may not be good. I prefer it sealed as the response is cleaner-sounding to me.

 

[Pahani]

At least in terms of measurements on an Audio Precision, breaking the seal just makes the 100 Hz bump more prominent, which may or may not be good. I prefer it sealed as the response is cleaner-sounding to me.

Tha's interesting because I made the adapter's order with the vents on as I watched videos where people say you have to break the seal.
Apparently if the seal is perfect the membrane can't move properly and you get less bass response.
I also thought that if the vents are not neccessary I can close them with some rubber.

I first saw this video comenting about it and then I did some searching on that problem I saw more people talking about it.

Minute 12:30 into the video

Try it yourself. I did just the "straw mod" to my 207's, not that full-on mod with pads. It's super easy and free, and reversible if you don't like it.

Cut two 1" sections of common drinking straw. Peel up a corner of the stock pads (I chose the corners facing the back of my neck). Place the section of straw underneath the pad and smush it back down.

If you like it, great. If you don't, just remove it. In theory though, it should work much like porting a subwoofer does. I happened to like the difference it made, perhaps you might not.

*edit* Whoops, didn't see that we were talking about L300.

 

[Tom Blake]

I have a question for all the Stax experts. I just got the iFI iESL energizer to use with my Pro iCAN and Stax SR-L500's. The iESL has adustable bias voltage settings. In addition to the standard 580V Pro setting it has 500V and 540V settings. Is there any benefit to running Stax Lambdas at lower than a 580V bias setting? The iESL manual claims that lower bias settings can result in a warmer sound signature which I tend to prefer. I assume no harm can be done to the earspeakers running them at lower bias settings than 580V? The iESL also has higher bias settings (600/620/640V) which I know I wouldn't want to use. It also has an outlet for the older Stax Normal bias earspeakers.

So far the iESL is a really great sounding energizer and significantly betters the Stax SRM-252S I have been using until now. Highly recommended especially if you have already have an iCAN Pro. The only connection needed between the 2 is a custom (included) HDMI cable. It also accepts speaker level inputs and a 4 pin balanced XLR connection from a headphone amp.

 

[YonnyMestampo]

Try it yourself. I did just the "straw mod" to my 207's, not that full-on mod with pads. It's super easy and free, and reversible if you don't like it.

Cut two 1" sections of common drinking straw. Peel up a corner of the stock pads (I chose the corners facing the back of my neck). Place the section of straw underneath the pad and smush it back down.

If you like it, great. If you don't, just remove it. In theory though, it should work much like porting a subwoofer does. I happened to like the difference it made, perhaps you might not.

*edit* Whoops, didn't see that we were talking about L300.

Sure.
I am aware the vented pads can be adjusted. The ones I ordered have 4 channels to let the air flow. It should be easy to block the air going through them. And even change the amount of air passing by adjusting how many of them are blocked.
By the way, aren't the L300 very similar to the 207?

 

[Tinkerer]

I have a question for all the Stax experts. I just got the iFI iESL energizer to use with my Pro iCAN and Stax SR-L500's. The iESL has adustable bias voltage settings. In addition to the standard 580V Pro setting it has 500V and 540V settings. Is there any benefit to running Stax Lambdas at lower than a 580V bias setting? The iESL manual claims that lower bias settings can result in a warmer sound signature which I tend to prefer. I assume no harm can be done to the earspeakers running them at lower bias settings than 580V? The iESL also has higher bias settings (600/620/640V) which I know I wouldn't want to use. It also has an outlet for the older Stax Normal bias earspeakers.

So far the iESL is a really great sounding energizer and significantly betters the Stax SRM-252S I have been using until now. Highly recommended especially if you have already have an iCAN Pro. The only connection needed between the 2 is a custom (included) HDMI cable. It also accepts speaker level inputs and a 4 pin balanced XLR connection from a headphone amp.

The higher the bias voltage, the better volume and resolution. There's no advantage to turning it down. Those other settings are likely for compatibility with Koss ESP 950's, and Sennheiser stats.

The stators usually have some leeway though within 5-10% voltage or so. It's why normal bias stax are run at 230 instead of the 200 they were originally. Most probias stax probably could probably run at 600 with no problems or even a little higher if you listen at low volumes usually. Not worth experimenting though, because if you arc through the diaphragm, you'll need a new one.

Bet you dimes to dollars that if you slap a proper power supply on that 252S, it will sound better than most any transformer energizer though. The advantage of transformer solutions was their compatibility with regular amps and their relative cheapness compared to dedicated amps. That's what makes the old Stax SRD boxes a nice thing even today with a few tweaks. The iESL loses out on the second factor for me. I could just about build a KGSSHV Carbon for that kind of money, or buy a used KGSSHV or Stax flagship.

 

[Tom Blake]

The higher the bias voltage, the better volume and resolution. There's no advantage to turning it down. Those other settings are likely for compatibility with Koss ESP 950's, and Sennheiser stats.

The stators usually have some leeway though within 5-10% voltage or so. It's why normal bias stax are run at 230 instead of the 200 they were originally. Most probias stax probably could probably run at 600 with no problems or even a little higher if you listen at low volumes usually. Not worth experimenting though, because if you arc through the diaphragm, you'll need a new one.

Bet you dimes to dollars that if you slap a proper power supply on that 252S, it will sound better than most any transformer energizer though. The advantage of transformer solutions was their compatibility with regular amps and their relative cheapness compared to dedicated amps. That's what makes the old Stax SRD boxes a nice thing even today with a few tweaks. The iESL loses out on the second factor for me. I could just about build a KGSSHV Carbon for that kind of money, or buy a used KGSSHV or Stax flagship.

Thanks for the info! I will just run at 580V then. I did consider a used Stax amp. Used KGSS are a rare sight. Since I already had the Pro iCAN the iESL was compelling. Especially since I am limited on desktop space and can't really fit one of the Stax flagship amps due to depth. The Pro iCAN and iESL provide a really compact, powerful, and high quality desktop solution, albeit at high cost.

 

[Tom Blake]

@Tinkerer (or anyone else) - there is also an Impedance Adjustment control on the iESL with settings of 96/64/24/16 ohms. It allows adjustment for the load impedance of the driving amp with an estat headphone attached. In general the manual recommends keeping it at the 96/64 setting. I can live with this but the output is noticeably louder at the 24 ohm setting, allowing more range on the volume control. Any issues running Stax with that kind of impedance setting? The iESL can put out 640V at the 16 ohm setting. I don't see a current gen Stax amp with an output higher than about 450V so am worried about running at 24 or 16 ohms. Thanks for any advice!