[EYEdROP]

I replaced my ear pads (new E cushy pads) a few months ago and found the old original pads I replaced lying around. I separated the circular puffy ring from the hard backing of the pad. I noticed one little hole on the inside of the puffy ring on the top/bottom (not sure which is which!!). You can actually feel the hole with your finger tips if you run them along the inside of the padding, without taking your pads apart.  
 
I'm wondering if this hole should be on the top or bottom when applying the pads. Since there is only one hole, there must be a correct way. I now notice my pads are slightly crooked, since the hole sits center. Also, the hole on my left pad is on top, but the right pad is on the bottom. Not optimal! 
 
I'm afraid to plug the hole but someone should try. Maybe it will increase bass?
 
 

 

[EYEdROP]

Also, you can slide or twist the padded ring 180 degrees on the hard backing to put the holes on the same side, so you dont have to actually take the whole pad off. I put both the holes on the bottom. They seem to seal better like that. 
 
It actually dosent seem the hole is in the center, more off to the side. It just looks center with the pad completely off. Mabye its the way they have to sit on the backing? 

 

[Deep Funk]

I do not think the little hole makes that much of difference. Its function might be to keep the ear pad fluffy by venting the ear pads. You can always experiment if you want to be sure...

 

[judy1992]

Maybe this will help?
 
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?VISuperSize&item=260739845752
 
Link isn't working.
Quote:

I would sure like to see a scanned image of that document in the picture.

 

[shamu144]

Unfortunately, the short answer is yes... You have to take extra care to find a suitable matching amplifier. To start with, yo will prefer to avoid modern opamp based amplifiers with very low output impedance (like the Stepdance I have at home now) or alternatively, use an impedance adapter. Opamps just do not like such low loads repeating Dr. Meier's words. Second, don't be surprised to hear noise (now that is the Graham UL)... At 5 ohms and 110dB/mw, the DT48A are extremely sensitive, on par with most sensitive IEM once converted to dB/V. Third, forget about tubes, unless they mount specific transformers designed to drive such a low load (unlikely or very expensive).
 
Luckily, the DT48A can be driven from a nominal output impedance of 4 to 1000 ohms... It has been suggested earlier in the thread that this would be due to their outstanding mechanical damping characteristic. You can look for a headphone amplifier with a high output impedance (the little creek OBH11 does a decent job at driving them, so does the headphone out on my Sony SACD player at 32 ohms). But then the choice of amps is very limited. Of course, you can alternatively use a quality impedance adapter. This is the route I am now going, fitting a couple of the highest quality Z-foil resistors into the headphone plug, a kind of permanent impedance adapter without the hassle of extra cables.
 
BTW, Ishcabible, those vintage DT48A look gorgeous as the metal cups have almost no trace of use. Do you know which year they have been manufactured ? Please let us know if you scan the manual, I also would love to read it.
 
Quote:

Do 5 ohm headphones like those have any special amping requirements? Most amps that I've looked at are designed to work best with 30 - 300ohms or 30-600ohms phones depending upon whether they are designed for high impedance cans... or not.

 

[judy1992]

I read the phamplet..
 
Interesting, "free of distortion even at high loudness levels".
"The frequency response is free of resonant peaks, and as a result, transient distortion, as well"
 
I assume this isn't common among headphones?

 

[dalethorn]

I do not think the little hole makes that much of difference. Its function might be to keep the ear pad fluffy by venting the ear pads. You can always experiment if you want to be sure...

My instincts, based on the dramatic difference in sound between my DT-48E and the 1974 version on both the low and high end, suggest to me that these pads play an important role in that. Ordinarily I'd order new pads just to experiment with, but now I'm afraid of breaking the seal and losing the low bass. I already contacted Beyer once and got an initial reply, but no followup.

 

[shamu144]

Thanks a lot Judy1992, most helpfull !
 
September 1960 ! That is way older than me

 
They also say sound do not differ much from modern versions... For $50, that must be the absolute best bargain on a collector headphone like those... Had the DT48A been discontinued 10 years ago, you would have had to pay $5000 for them

 
Quote:

Maybe this will help?
 
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?VISuperSize&item=260739845752
 
Link isn't working.

 

[dalethorn]

I read the phamplet..
 
Interesting, "free of distortion even at high loudness levels".
"The frequency response is free of resonant peaks, and as a result, transient distortion, as well"
 
I assume this isn't common among headphones?

I'm sure it's common among the high-end 'phones, but I've had several of the under-200 dollar variety that break up easily in the bass, and get harsh and grating in the highs at higher volumes.

 

[dalethorn]

Thanks a lot Judy1992, most helpfull !
 
September 1960 ! That is way older than me

 
They also say sound do not differ much from modern versions... For $50, that must be the absolute best bargain on a collector headphone like those... Had the DT48A been discontinued 10 years ago, you would have had to pay $5000 for them

 

In the picture with the red and ??? color earcups, the driver top plates have a slotted screw or bolt in the center. The newer models have the fastener with the 2 little holes in them. I wonder if anyone knows whether the slotted fasteners are originals?

 

[judy1992]

Like the HP1/2? Don't they sell for 1,800 or something?
 
Quote:

Thanks a lot Judy1992, most helpfull !
 
September 1960 ! That is way older than me

 
They also say sound do not differ much from modern versions... For $50, that must be the absolute best bargain on a collector headphone like those... Had the DT48A been discontinued 10 years ago, you would have had to pay $5000 for them

 

 

 

[judy1992]

These sold for 80.00 in 1960.. Was 80.00 a lot back then?

 

[Ishcabible]

Quote:

Quote:

Thanks a lot Judy1992, most helpfull !
 
September 1960 ! That is way older than me

 
They also say sound do not differ much from modern versions... For $50, that must be the absolute best bargain on a collector headphone like those... Had the DT48A been discontinued 10 years ago, you would have had to pay $5000 for them

 

 

In the picture with the red and ??? color earcups, the driver top plates have a slotted screw or bolt in the center. The newer models have the fastener with the 2 little holes in them. I wonder if anyone knows whether the slotted fasteners are originals?

 
I would assume they're originals seeing as littlebear's DT48's SNr108 had slotted screws as well.
 

 
And for those of you who didn't look at the link:

 
I am seriously stoked to get them. I mean this is probably the DT48 fan's dream come true--a serial numbered DT48 from 1960 in immaculate condition other than the pads and a tiny loss of lettering, and all the original stuff that came with it, all for half the price of those M50's newbies are gushing over.

 
I also noticed they have the franken DT48 headband. IIRC, the one k3oxkjo got (SNr121 in fact) had the same headband.
 
And Judy, according to this, $80 would be about $600 now, and the HP1000 series was never very cheap. IIRC, they  were like $600 for the TOTL HP1 right? That's about $1000 in today money. Not much of a drastic inflation. They routinely go for around $1500ish and sometimes more or less depending on condition.
 

 

[dalethorn]

 
Quote:

These sold for 80.00 in 1960.. Was 80.00 a lot back then?

I think I paid $75 U.S. for both the 48 and 48S, in 1974.  That's about $328.50 today, and even though the price for the 48E today is $379, it's a real bargain given that the exchange rate of Marks -vs- dollar has gone way in favor of the Mark since then.

 

[EYEdROP]

Is there anyone out there with the original factory installed E pads still intact, or a DT48E that was bought brand new recently? Where are your holes? lol. 
 
Its just really driving me nuts, im very particular about symetry and little stuff like that. There must be a particular way they go on.