[TheGiantHogweed]

An amp like the FiiO you mention above might be just what I need for my K553's. Sounds like a great solution! Thanks for the above.

I haven't really started looking in earnest for amp or DAC/amp solutions yet. But I wonder if there might be some way to run the digital optical out from Samsung TV into one of those, so I don't have to use the analog output?

Keep us posted on your cable updates.

Every headphone output on a TV I've ever tried has always been full of noise for some reason, so yea, always better to use a digital output. The A3 from what I've looked at seems to be the only amp that FiiO make now that boosts the bass in this specific area which seems to suit the K550s perfectly.

With my TV, for the past few years, I've had a Yamaha AS300 integrated amplifier connected to the TV by this: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Digital-An...ld=1&keywords=fiio+d03k&qid=1589188991&sr=8-2

Seems to have gone down in price since I bought it as i don't think it is made any more. Although it is cheap, it sounds far better than any TV headphone socket will sound. But it is just a DAC. I have it connected to the amplifier i mentioned as it has no digital inputs. But you can also get a nice long cable to plug into the 3.5mm port of the D03k and then use that with the FiiO A3 and you get a very good sound then.

Just be aware that the power supply that comes with this DAC is very noisy. So it is better to use a mini usb cable connected to a USB port on a TV, or better still, a good quality phone charger.


If you look at the 2nd review here by brooko, they show a graph showing the specific frequency and quantity the bass boost is at. I found it very helpful even after buying it.

https://www.head-fi.org/showcase/fiio-kilimanjaro-2-e11k-portable-headphone-amplifier.20228/reviews


I haven't ordered the mini XLR plug yet. I may do it sometime though.

 

[ADUHF]

Every headphone output on a TV I've ever tried has always been full of noise for some reason, so yea, always better to use a digital output. The A3 from what I've looked at seems to be the only amp that FiiO make now that boosts the bass in this specific area which seems to suit the K550s perfectly.

With my TV, for the past few years, I've had a Yamaha AS300 integrated amplifier connected to the TV by this: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Digital-An...ld=1&keywords=fiio+d03k&qid=1589188991&sr=8-2

Seems to have gone down in price since I bought it as i don't think it is made any more. Although it is cheap, it sounds far better than any TV headphone socket will sound. But it is just a DAC. I have it connected to the amplifier i mentioned as it has no digital inputs. But you can also get a nice long cable to plug into the 3.5mm port of the D03k and then use that with the FiiO A3 and you get a very good sound then.

Just be aware that the power supply that comes with this DAC is very noisy. So it is better to use a mini usb cable connected to a USB port on a TV, or better still, a good quality phone charger.


If you look at the 2nd review here by brooko, they show a graph showing the specific frequency and quantity the bass boost is at. I found it very helpful even after buying it.

https://www.head-fi.org/showcase/fiio-kilimanjaro-2-e11k-portable-headphone-amplifier.20228/reviews


I haven't ordered the mini XLR plug yet. I may do it sometime though.

Very cool, TheGiantHogweed! Thanks for the info.

I just did a quick search, and it appears there are some reasonably priced combination DAC + headphone amp combos that include optical inputs. There are several listed in this buyers guide from B&H, though many are probably well out of my price range.

https://www.bhphotovideo.com/explora/pro-audio/buying-guide/10-headphone-amplifiers-audiophiles

B&H is a major audio-video retailor on the east coast in the US. And I have often used them in the past for advice on A/V gear. Especially the more exotic kind.

I'm not sure how common this is, but I think the 3.5mm analog output on my Samsung TV is actually just a standard -10 dBV unbalanced consumer line level audio output, with an impedance of about 10,000 ohms, as opposed to a headphone output. It's the same type of sound you'd get from the red and white RCA outputs of a CD player or a VCR, I believe.

It should sound ok connected to the consumer line level inputs of an amp or receiver (using a 3.5mm to 2-RCA stereo adapter cable, if necessary), as long as the TV has a reasonably good built-in DAC. Which it may or may not.

More expensive TVs may have fairly decent built-in DACs. My Samsung J5200 TV is somewhat lower-end though. And I have no idea what type of on-board audio DAC it uses for the internal speakers and 3.5mm -10 dBV analog output. It sounds relatively ok going through my Mackie compact mixer. But I really have no basis for comparison on that.

The TV's digital optical output should bypass the TV's internal DAC though, I assume.

I am a relative newbie to headphone amps and DACs btw. So you'll have to forgive me if I'm just stating the obvious above.

 

[ADUHF]

If you look at the 2nd review here by brooko, they show a graph showing the specific frequency and quantity the bass boost is at. I found it very helpful even after buying it.

https://www.head-fi.org/showcase/fiio-kilimanjaro-2-e11k-portable-headphone-amplifier.20228/reviews

I think this is the image you're referring to above on the FiiO A3's analog bass boost: https://cdn.head-fi.org/a/7881600.png

Interesting that they're boosting only one frequency in the bass at ~70 Hz (with rolloff), as opposed to using a more shelved, or tilted approach. I don't know that much about headphone amps though, so maybe this is fairly typical.

 

[ADUHF]

It also has software EQ and has 62 - 250 - 1k - 4k - 16k adjustments. Goes from +6 to -6 but i don't think it is in db as I would say maxed out it only adds around 3 or 4.

The annoying thing is that it is the type of software EQ that reduces the volume when enabled. But I guess this is to prevent distortion by digitally amplifying certain frequencies. I think when you adjust 62hz for example, it must reduce all the other frequencies rather than increas this. Strange but I guess it makes sense.

The overall level probably has to be reduced with the multi-band digital EQ to prevent both distortion and clipping when raising any of the individual bands above the nominal levels.

 

[ADUHF]

The 50mm driver in these K55X helps. The M50x uses a 45mm driver. And Solo 2 only has 40mm drivers, which probably explains why it's bass is more boomy and higher in frequency.

OK. I have to take the above back now. Because it appears that the membrane on the K55X's 50mm driver may only be about 43mm across.

I can't do a direct measurement of the membrane on my K553's without removing the drivers from the baffle plate. But the grille (holes in the baffle plate over the driver) appears to be about 40mm in diameter. So it seems possible that the membrane could be a bit smaller than 50mm.

The membrane is a little wider that the grille holes. So bigger than the 40mm. But I can't really tell how much bigger, by just looking through the holes.

 

[TheGiantHogweed]

Bought and received my mini XLR connector.

Plugged it into one of my 3.5mm to mini XLR cables to make it easier to solder to. These wires are from the original K550 cable. The ones at the end of the cable in the ear cup were a mess, so I stripped the cable a bit further down and got some in good condition. Even these wires seem a tiny bit too thick to neatly slide into the contacts, so I made a bit of a mess, but they are on securely enough and I put some heat shrink over them.

Was difficult to decide weather to finish off with a drill or a file as i didn't want it to be uneven. It needed to be a fraction wider than 10mm, but worked out reasonably in the end.

I realized after doing this that I wouldn't be able to put the rubber/silicone disks back in under the center of the driver, but I really struggle to tell any difference with or without them with both these and my new MKIIIs. I also expected that I would somehow manage to tighten the nut up fully, which wasn't the case.

After cutting and filing down the screw threads for the old cable grip, I could get the nut part way down, but the connector still wobbled somewhat.

Ended up using hot melt glue which will obviously make undoing it rather difficult, but I don't think it should need more doing to it. I was aware I could have used the wrong colour wires for this. So many audio cables have different colours so I just had to use put them on randomly and then use a multi meter to check what was correct. I just got the red and yellow the wrong way round so simply soldered them to the back of the driver the opposite way round to what they were originally. I put a little too much glue in but as it was still soft (not sticky), when i screwed the driver and plastic surrounding back in place, it went back where it should be.

Apperence wise, it may not be great for some as I didn't make the connector come out level, so it is at a slight angle.

Even more of an angle here, but if anything, this hardly matters at all. It is the left side, meaning it comes out going forwards slightly. Looks strange but I see it as a slight benefit as the MKIII goes directly down and with the connector included, it does get quite close to your shoulder if you slouch in your chair. With this, it isn't the case as much.

Other than when you look really closely, it doesn't look too bad. Think I've been quite lucky given it is my first attempt at doing putting this sort of connector on headphones.

As I said before, the reason why i don't like fixed cables is that you can't easily adjust the length of it for different uses. 3 meters is good for my desk, but only if it is tidied out the way, and then my headphones are basically attached to my desk which then makes it annoying to use them elsewhere. Then as I've become so used to having mini XLR connectors on my new K550s and K702s (when i had them), I like the fact the connector clicks and locks into place and only comes undone with a push of the button. A 3.5mm cable just wouldn't be what I would want. I would have thought just the weight of the cable dropping (if it is a long one) would often pull it out.

I have a 1m and a 3m heavy duty cable for these as well as what came with my new K550s which I haven't used yet. So that makes it easier for use in different places and makes my old ones more portable.

Even though My new K550s are in much better condition than these, I think it was worth spending £5 to try this out. Seems to have worked well so far.

 

[ADUHF]

Very interesting TGHW. Thanks for posting this.

The XLR connector looks like it might be adding some add'l weight. Have you thought about adding some weights to the other cup to even that out?

 

[TheGiantHogweed]

Very interesting TGHW. Thanks for posting this.

The XLR connector looks like it might be adding some add'l weight. Have you thought about adding some weights to the other cup to even that out?

On the MKIIIs, there is noting to balance the weight and they have an XLR connector as well as a plastic moulding around it to make it neater, and it really isn't noticeable as they are quite heavy anyway. I have removed the cable grip and screws as well as filing down the plastic a fair bit too, so the weight difference will be tiny. Admittedly, you are better off with a thinner cable if you are concerned about weight. Such as the one that came with my MKIII.

 

[pofofo]

I just bought a pair of these (MKII). The seller said he bought them in 2015, tried them for a very short time and put them back in the box. I just picked them up, and they indeed look like new. The problem is that there is way more bass in the left cup. The right cup are almost stripped of bass, but midrange and treble seem to be the correct level. I called up the seller and, while are ok with me getting my money back, hadnt noticed anything like Im describing when he tested them 5 years ago.

Did I get a dud? Im guessing there is no way they will magically be fixed be "burning them in" or something like that?
Any tips or ideas are greatly appreciated.

Edit: I removed the earpads and lightly poked both the drivers, the right one is stuck...

 

[Mink]

No burn in will ever get some bass back in the right cup or balance it out between both cups. You got a dub.
That's unfortunate, because these nice headphones are discontinued, the only way to get a pair is in the used market.
Or, if looks aren't important, you may get a pair of AKG K371s. Not as fancy looking as the K550s, but to most they are like slightly improved K550s.

 

[pofofo]

Well, with the pads removed, I cupped my lips over the driver and blew and sucked lightly, on the inhale the driver clicked, and its way better now. Probably not as much bass as the left, but much more alike.

Edit: Spelling

Edit2: After some hours with laying on the desk and playing punchy/bassy music, I do not notice any difference in bass in L and R. These have an amazing sound! Especially with my modded Audeze LCD2-pads.

 

[Mink]

AKG K550MK2 revisited. With a few exceptions I keep all my headphones I once bought. And for good reasons, in no way these K550MK2s are outdated.
If you have to believe the audio world: with every product update the sound gets better. Remember the What Hifi group test of Cd players and amps? In every test you could read the same sentence: "Group test winner of 2018. Still a great product but the competition is getting stronger" 4 stars (instead of the 5 stars the year before).
Those poor people who fell for it and upgraded their gear every year...
When I got my 750 Euro Marantz CD600Ki Cd player, owning the CD5000 (250 Euro) for three years I was very disappointed. Yes, great looking Cd player, but zero difference in sound. I still own both. The CD5000 plays every CD without problems, the CD6000KI does not.

Now with headphones it is a lot more obvious, a different tuning, a different driver you can hear it clearly, you don't have to put much effort in it. But are those updates always improvements? Are those new models that come out every year better than the ones that exist for over a decade? Not necessarily so. Case in point: arguably the HD650s are still class leaders in their price range. Their tuning may not be to anyone's liking, but tonally and technically they are not obsolete, they still are the mid-fi benchmark.
The same can be said for their closed-back counterpart, the AKG K550s.
Not my favorite pair, but whenever I do an A-B test they just win, because to my ears their tonality and their delivery (sound pressure and impact) are the most natural. They beat the HD650 every time. Yesterday I played Radiohead's Pyramid song. I liked the impact and sound of the K550s, but I was convinced it lacked something, a bit of depth maybe? Played the same song with the HD650s and I was underwhelmed, less impact, veiled. Then I took the Nighthawks, a bit more depth, true but the whole sound was covered in a woolen blanket. Horrible.
This happens every time: they beat all my headphones when I AB them. But the weird thing is, they never convince me in the long run. When I listen to them for a longer period I never feel they are perfect, I always sense something can be improved upon. I don't have this feeling with my HD650s, MDR-Z7s and NightHawks. They always win me over and succeed in convincing me it doesn't get any better. How bizarre is that? I almost feel sorry for the K550s

 

[ADUHF]

Interesting take, Mink. Thank you for sharing.

 

[ringo9]

Hi guys. After 7 years with the K550 I recently got some new headphones and while A/B ing them, I realized the low end on the K550 was surprisingly weak, mainly down to the fitting being too loose as when I pressed the ear cups with my hands against my head the improvement was immediate. The new pair, either due to being brand new or due to a different design is much tigher and leak-tight, providing a solid low end.

I had replaced the earpads couple of years back with compatible ones (but not OEM) but I am not even sure it is a matter of earpads as much as of the central metal band being too loose/flexible as I said. My head is rather on the small and narrow side but still nothing extraordinary!

When taken off, nothing looks loose, the earcups almost touch each other, it's just how easily they flex and (as a result of that) how little pressure they apply when stretched over the head. I doubt I cad do anything about the metal band, but maybe deeper pads (acting like spacers in a way) could help with better pressure and less leak? Not into headphone modding so I have no idea if what I'm thinking would even work but open to suggestions!

 

[episiarch]

In my experience K550 bass suffers badly not only when there's not a seal, but when the air volume within the earcup gets too large, as has been my experience with most aftermarket pads that provide more spacing and cushion.

The only exception I've found is the Brainwavs angled oval pads in pleather or leather. These have an inner hole that is relatively small compared to the outer rim (even when you stretch the ovals to fit on the round K550 drivers), and that seems to keep the air channel small enough for the K550 to drive effectively. I won't say it sounds exactly like stock, but IMO it sounds really good, and whatever bass loss there is, is acceptable to me. (My music choices aren't very bass-driven though, and your mileage may vary.)

The Brainwavs pads are noticeably thicker than the stock pads. While I think this will help with your seal problem, the extra size seriously changes the look of the K550 on my head, from one of (I like to think) sleek sophistication to something really oversized and dorky. But if it's social distancing you're after, this is a win.

Hi guys. After 7 years with the K550 I recently got some new headphones and while A/B ing them, I realized the low end on the K550 was surprisingly weak, mainly down to the fitting being too loose as when I pressed the ear cups with my hands against my head the improvement was immediate. The new pair, either due to being brand new or due to a different design is much tigher and leak-tight, providing a solid low end.
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