SR60-Mod
Apr 13, 2011 at 10:41 PM Post #3,001 of 5,004
http://www.amazon.com/Dynamat-10415-Xtreme-Speaker-Sheets/dp/B00020CATC/ref=sr_1_8?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1302748873&sr=1-8

 
I bought this package last year. I think its a little over kill and I havent even used more than an inch off of one sheet.
Quote:
Yeah, that's a lot of Dynamat - 4 sq. feet.  That should suffice for about 200 headphone modifications.  
darthsmile.gif

 



 
 
Apr 13, 2011 at 11:51 PM Post #3,005 of 5,004
soooo. i had an idea.. putting some quarter modded comfies on my portapros.. Holy Crap. They are so comfortable and its a perfect compromise in between my ugly looking reversed 414 pads and the stock pads.. These are seriously perfect for the portapros in my opinion. I'm glad I will look like less of a goober wearing my portapros too. I'll post some pics tmrw. I'm simply astounded. These pads are great. 
 
I threw the quarter sized pieces of foam on the sliders and I think I'm gonna glue down the buttons on the sides.. It'll say "my other set of headphones are grado's" lol. I'll post a pic to see what you guys think tmrw.
 
Apr 14, 2011 at 2:27 AM Post #3,007 of 5,004


Quote:
 

I had an amazing experience one time angling a pair of computer speakers.  By turning them off-axis, I heard sound coming off the walls in parity with whatever sound I was getting from the drivers.  It's a Bose-like trick but one I greatly enjoyed.  To do this with headphones, however, a couple of things would need to be part of the equation.  Just angling the driver, by itself, doesn't work.  What you want is reflection ghosting alongside the on-axis presentation.  This would require the construction of a forward shell.
 
Let me back up and come at this from a slightly different angle (ba-dum-dum).  If you're wearing on-ear pads, the driver is already angled, but it's angled with the ears, which are angled.  You're getting a sound that is completely on-axis.  The jumbo pads of the GS1000 and PS1000 are circumaural.  Not only is the driver further away; it is shooting to the side of your head, that little area in front of the ear.  This is more angled than the on-ear approach because the aim is somewhat diffused.
 
The problem here is that the reflection has nothing solid to bounce off of.  The cushions are more absorbent than reflective.  If you're going to bounce sound off of the area in front of the ears, you'll need something constructed out of something other than foam.  Grado has no cushions like that.  Most manufacturers don't.  It's a job for Super DIY, who is not just faster than a speeding bullet but faster than beryllium, with its sound velocity of 12,000 m/s (Note: Don't use beryllium; it's total kryptonite).
 


bill, build this, SHOW US YOUR TRUE COLORS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
 
 
Apr 14, 2011 at 2:40 AM Post #3,009 of 5,004
Hey Bilavideo can I hassle ya' for some dynamat sir? Twould be greatly appreciated.
 
Apr 14, 2011 at 9:25 AM Post #3,011 of 5,004


Quote:
chris, I'd say button. you attached sr80 drivers to a portapro headband? 
 



 


Quote:
I think he just put the comfies on his PortaPros.

 
Unchain is right :) They are kramer modded and I threw the cut outs from the pads on the sliders, but they are the PortaPro drivers. I know they don't really belong in this thread, but I figured I could get away with it because I was using my grado pads 
atsmile.gif

 
 
 
Apr 14, 2011 at 11:00 AM Post #3,012 of 5,004

 
Quote:
Tonight, while playing catch-up, I had a breakthrough.  I've replaced the "grip" (upper and lower contact surfaces) with a thicker lip and a ring that stops the inner where I want it.  This design squeezes the inner tight but has more durability.  
 
I've had instances where somebody left some glue on the inner, then tried to force the inner into the groove, rubbing against the inner walls until they cracked.  I've also had instances where those little plastic bumps, deep inside the inner, managed to exert undue pressure.  Somebody in a bit of a hurry would just force the issue, only to get an agonizing crack (As with replacing a tire on your car, putting the thing on straight makes a difference).  It's an aggravation that needed to be dealt with.  Unfortunately, when you get down to tolerance of one-eighth of an inch, there's a fragility that makes the classic design less than user-friendly.  On a completed headphone, where all the parts have been assembled in the factory, these fragility issues don't come up but when you hand a shell, or an inner, to someone else, you have to ask yourself whether we're dealing with a "customer serviceable" part.  
 
I, personally, prefer thicker shells, regardless of what they do in Brooklyn.  Trying to make my ideas fit their tolerances has been a bit of a headache, but I think I've found a way through the labyrinth.  I'll follow up with some pics.  In short, I've thickened the outer lip, removed the inner lip and replaced its "grip" with a tighter fit from a thicker lip.  I've also created a ring that stops the inner exactly where I want it.  I can now check the fit before I've left the drill press.  Creating the "cradle" is now one of the earliest steps in the process.

 
Can't wait to see pics of this idea, Bill!
 
 
 
Apr 14, 2011 at 2:30 PM Post #3,014 of 5,004
Can anyone comment on the effect that the depth of the wooden can might have on the sonic performances of the drivers?  
 
As I mentioned, I'm going to attempt get some woodie goodness out of a set of iGrados and while I think that will mean salvaging the drivers and turning the setup into a headband-supported phone, I'm considering trying to make a set of "WoodiGrados".  Make a set of wooden cans and then design a headband-to-can attachment flange of some sort.
 
Just thinking about how deep (i.e heavy) the wooden cans need to be in order to be effective.  Going to consider the weight before trying to support them with the ear clip style headband.
 

 
Apr 14, 2011 at 3:24 PM Post #3,015 of 5,004


Quote:
Can anyone comment on the effect that the depth of the wooden can might have on the sonic performances of the drivers?  
 
As I mentioned, I'm going to attempt get some woodie goodness out of a set of iGrados and while I think that will mean salvaging the drivers and turning the setup into a headband-supported phone, I'm considering trying to make a set of "WoodiGrados".  Make a set of wooden cans and then design a headband-to-can attachment flange of some sort.
 
Just thinking about how deep (i.e heavy) the wooden cans need to be in order to be effective.  Going to consider the weight before trying to support them with the ear clip style headband.
 


I've learned through experience that you can never go too deep with woodies. That is if you enjoy the increase in bass and soundstage. However problems arise, first being that the weight increases dramatically with hardwoods like cocobolo. The next and equally annoying thing is that you look extremely goofy while wearing them as they stick out too far from your head. 
 
If you can get past looks and the extra weight you'll have yourself an extremely beautiful sounding Grado. I still offer deep style cups to my customers but few request them because of their nuisances. 
 
 
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top