[schwallman]

Jmoney is overpriced. Those prices were set a long time ago when not many people had the knowledge to do it. I know wood and time is expensive but whatever floats your boat.
Quote:

I was wondering what you would suggest I do next to my 60's. I currently have the quarter mod and the white cloth removed from the headphones. I also vented the driver with probably about 5 holes on each side (best mod so far love the bass). Whats next? Is my next move to get some wooden cups to put on? I dont really have the time/tools/knowledge to make my own. I know Jmoney makes some decent ones but they are fairly pricey so maybe I just need to save up. Are getting the wood cups really worth the investment? Who would you suggest I buy from?
 
Thanks
Alex

 

 

[Danthrax]

Quote:

I was wondering what you would suggest I do next to my 60's. I currently have the quarter mod and the white cloth removed from the headphones. I also vented the driver with probably about 5 holes on each side (best mod so far love the bass). Whats next? Is my next move to get some wooden cups to put on? I dont really have the time/tools/knowledge to make my own. I know Jmoney makes some decent ones but they are fairly pricey so maybe I just need to save up. Are getting the wood cups really worth the investment? Who would you suggest I buy from?
 
Thanks
Alex

pm bilavideo he might give you a quote.
 
 
On a side note I like my AKG's better than my Grados

 

[estreeter]

Quote:

On a side note I like my AKG's better than my Grados

 
You guys hold him whilst I sharpen this pitchfork. 
 
 

 

[sml1226]

I can't try AKG around here. I may be on his side here... He'll have to let me try out those AKGs before we go at him to make that decision though

Why can't we all just be frenemies?

 

[Megalomaniac]

Quick note....my dad can't tell the difference between my modded sr60i and 325is. He could note the differences between beyer and grado though.

 

[estreeter]

Quote:

Why can't we all just be frenemies?

Thank you, Rodney King
 

 

[schwallman]

So one last listen of the hf2s before i packed them up to return turned into me playing with a razorblade and now officially owning these headphones. I got the drivers out of the wod cups tonight. now onto getting the wood out of the metal for a new coat.. Hopefully pics tomorrow.

 

[BobSaysHi]

Ok guys, I just caught up with all the posts I missed. I've been busy with personal matters.
 
Anyway, I just finished damping the entire back plate, like I saw several users doing earlier in the thread, and I am at 10 holes punched with reversed quarter modded comfies. The last bit of dynamat is like icing on the cake. What was good before, now has a slightly smoother signature (not placebo, I did a blind test on my friend, and after he returned them, he tricked me into thinking I had caused the mods to lower the SQ by flipping the cups around without me knowing). Very highly recommended if you're after a more neutral high end (like I am). There is now more dynamat in my grados then there is plastic, and I'm looking forward to getting rid of most of the rest of the plastic as well.
 
Glad to see you back and well, Bill. 

 

[hi-fiber]

anyone know when we can hear from Mr.Bilavideo?

 
 
OH, i bought my own hand drill! wee! so happy!
 
im so into this grado drug...

 

[Bilavideo]

 

Interchangeable shells would be outstanding Bill, great idea but how to do it whats your plan, I know you got one...LOL.
 

 
The pattern, thus far, has been to attach the shells with glue.  To get them off you have to undo the glue.  I came up with double-walled grippers, with a cut for the cable, so my shells could be "slip-ons."  But there's always the danger of tearing up the shells putting them on and taking them off.  I'd like to develop a bayonet system that mounts onto the inner shell and allows it to attach and release the second shell, so it can swapped out in seconds - and without damaging the shell.  At first, I thought a threaded system would work best but I may go to knurled brass inserts, which are as manipulable as a wingnut but with a smaller profile and a bit more elegance.
 
Knurled Brass Nut
Thumb Nuts, Anyone?
 

I was wondering what you would suggest I do next to my 60's. I currently have the quarter mod and the white cloth removed from the headphones. I also vented the driver with probably about 5 holes on each side (best mod so far love the bass). Whats next? Is my next move to get some wooden cups to put on? I dont really have the time/tools/knowledge to make my own. I know Jmoney makes some decent ones but they are fairly pricey so maybe I just need to save up. Are getting the wood cups really worth the investment? Who would you suggest I buy from?
 
Thanks
Alex

To be fair to all these guys out there, Headphile makes some really nice shells, even if the cost is premium.  JMoney also makes some very nice shells, for about half the price of Headphile.  To be fair, though, you're getting half the shell.  With Headphile, you send it in and the entire shell is remade (inners and outers).  With JMoney, you're getting a commercial slip-on.  There are also people on HeadFi who cut shells.  In fact, as you scroll through the pages, you'll find some amazing shells.  Every time I see somebody share what they've done, I find it inspiring.
 

Quote:

Interchangeable shells would be outstanding Bill, great idea but how to do it whats your plan, I know you got one...LOL.
 

Detachable cables seems to be the only way to do that well enough though... We don't want to recable every set of shells in silver do we? Why not just the one? The only problem is where to get silver connectors for the detachment...

But the rest seems straightforward enough, at least the planning and theory, maybe not the actual production of it.

You make a valid point.  The conventional stringing point has been in the outer shell.  Slip-on shells are based on never having to resolder.  If, on the other hand, you go detachable, you'll have to resolder at least once, so you can set up the detachable cable.  You do not, however, have to put the jack in the secondary shell.  You can actually make it part of the primary shell and simply keep notching the secondary shells so that they don't get in the way of the plug.  I'll post a pic when I have one available.
 

Jmoney is overpriced. Those prices were set a long time ago when not many people had the knowledge to do it. I know wood and time is expensive but whatever floats your boat.

I'll give JMoney its due.  It makes a nice product, and it puts it out there for half the price of Headphile, which does a full work-up (when you send it your headphones).  But today, in the aftermath of this consumer revolution, where users are taking back their headphones, consumers can demand more for less.  The world is changed.  We are no longer dependent upon commercial vendors to give us what we want.
 

pm bilavideo he might give you a quote.
On a side note I like my AKG's better than my Grados

We should be willing to learn from every manufacturer and every design.  There are some thing AKG does really well.  There are some things Sennheiser does really well.  There are some things beyerdynamic does really well.  There are even - gasp - a few things we could learn from the bad boys of Headfi: Bose and The Beats.  If they weren't so expensive, I'd grab the bad boys and mod them up.  It's surprising what a few simple mods can do.  In both cases, I'd go open, replace the plastic with wood, improve the cabling, damp the appropriate places inside each can and open up the cushions a bit to let a healthier mix play out.
 

Quick note....my dad can't tell the difference between my modded sr60i and 325is. He could note the differences between beyer and grado though.

When you've made $80 headphones sound close enough to $300 headphones, that has to be a source of great satisfaction.
 

So one last listen of the hf2s before i packed them up to return turned into me playing with a razorblade and now officially owning these headphones. I got the drivers out of the wod cups tonight. now onto getting the wood out of the metal for a new coat.. Hopefully pics tomorrow.

You, sir, have guts.  I had my HF2 twice and never went through with it.  In some ways, I wish I had, so I could take them to the top.  Now, you're going for it and all I can do is salute you while your climb your mountain.  I believe you'll make it to the top.
 

Ok guys, I just caught up with all the posts I missed. I've been busy with personal matters.
 
Anyway, I just finished damping the entire back plate, like I saw several users doing earlier in the thread, and I am at 10 holes punched with reversed quarter modded comfies. The last bit of dynamat is like icing on the cake. What was good before, now has a slightly smoother signature (not placebo, I did a blind test on my friend, and after he returned them, he tricked me into thinking I had caused the mods to lower the SQ by flipping the cups around without me knowing). Very highly recommended if you're after a more neutral high end (like I am). There is now more dynamat in my grados then there is plastic, and I'm looking forward to getting rid of most of the rest of the plastic as well.
 
Glad to see you back and well, Bill. 

Thanks, Bob.  I like your solution.  If you have plastic Grados, the cheapest solution is to simply line the plastic with Dynamat.  It'll cost you in Dynamat but that's a drop in the bucket.  Lots of us talked about it, Bob, but you actually did it.  How cool is that?

 

[xaval]

Quote:

 
 
The pattern, thus far, has been to attach the shells with glue.  To get them off you have to undo the glue.  I came up with double-walled grippers, with a cut for the cable, so my shells could be "slip-ons."  But there's always the danger of tearing up the shells putting them on and taking them off.  I'd like to develop a bayonet system that mounts onto the inner shell and allows it to attach and release the second shell, so it can swapped out in seconds - and without damaging the shell.  At first, I thought a threaded system would work best but I may go to knurled brass inserts, which are as manipulable as a wingnut but with a smaller profile and a bit more elegance.

I had thought of this before at the very beginning of this super thread - I'm not brave enough for the doing so I didn't vent it. And I'm glad you came up with it Bill, because for a non-doer like me the instant slipons are just p-e-r-f-e-c-t. And it's not just wood since you could come out with alu-wood hibrids and the now forgoten carbon fiber. Now, as has been mentioned (ecclein?), Corporate America - and I'd say, Corporate World - is out there. Opportunity

 

[eclein]

bobsayshi--welcome back, hope everything is OK for you!!!

 

[mcgsxr]

I think lots of folks are happy with making their own cups, and lots are happy splashing out for pre made ones.
 
If I total what I have spent in wood, hole saws and misc, I KNOW I have spent more than the JMoney ones.   I have also spent more than the Alumods from Jaben.
 
Now, I don't mind that, cause I think DIY is a fun distraction, and I am outfitted to build more cups for myself, when the urge arises.

 

[bunch]

Just did the vent driver mod, oh my- the bass that I'm getting is unreal. Although I'm not getting any of the issues that the other guys on this thread are getting, relating to the plastic housing and having the need to dampen anything.

On a side note, my comfy pads (I think? the stock pads on the 2009 series) are way too itchy, are there others which don't itch as much?

 

[dye1337]

Quote:

Just did the vent driver mod, oh my- the bass that I'm getting is unreal. Although I'm not getting any of the issues that the other guys on this thread are getting, relating to the plastic housing and having the need to dampen anything.

The bass is great after venting and I find it helps improve the mids too, but I personally find it a little overpowering unless you distance yourself from the drivers.  I personally quarter modded some 414 pads and put some hd201 pads in front of those and it seems to be doing the job after punching 5 holes each side