SR60-Mod
Mar 3, 2011 at 5:00 PM Post #1,876 of 5,004
Quote:
jesus.. i checked out what the techheromods actually look like and they stick out like the alu mods from jaben!
 
not my thing.
 
Anyone makes more flushed wooden cups? like the shape of my grados as they are just want a different look.

I already asked if they could make me simpler shaped cups with short height and they said they could. If you want a certain design ask them
 
 
 
Mar 3, 2011 at 5:13 PM Post #1,877 of 5,004
saint i can possibly make you set for cheap depending on what wood you want. i'm still working on some for my sr-80s. i'll let you know how they turn out and post pics later. 
 
Quote:
cheers mate, and yes pricey but not like headphile. i seriously think these companies are making a bloody killing..
 
anyone else with a mill in their backyard?



 
 
Mar 3, 2011 at 9:00 PM Post #1,878 of 5,004
I have three sets of pads that I'm swapping around on the new wood shells,
1) Stock Flat Pads
 2) Quarter Mods
 3) Large Pads-Bowls
All change the sound a bit to alot the Stock Flats bring the most Bass
Bowls are the comfiest produce flatest, smoothest sound, quarter mods need more research on...
 
 
Mar 3, 2011 at 9:35 PM Post #1,879 of 5,004
 
jesus.. i checked out what the techheromods actually look like and they stick out like the alu mods from jaben!
 
not my thing.
 
Anyone makes more flushed wooden cups? like the shape of my grados as they are just want a different look.


It seems like a bigger-is-better fetish tends to set in, like the imagination of a thirteen-year-old boy whose ideal woman is the one with the biggest double slingshot.  Been there, done that, bought the t-shirt.  While I support any modder's right to mod - and on their own terms - I can't help but think that the MS1000 mod is adding width where none is needed or desired.  Why waste space on a spacer when you can simply start the quality shell with the inner?  Throw away the plastic and use the real estate it occupies to add that extra inch of real shell.  This can be done using the safe partial-liberation of simply tapping around the circle between the front grill and the plastic ring.  What you end up with is a thick half-dollar that can be dropped into a wooden or aluminum inner between 3/4" and 1" in depth.  In my opinion, the best spacer is the one you don't need.
 
Mar 3, 2011 at 9:45 PM Post #1,880 of 5,004
Hello, noob here.
I tried opening my SR60's with steamed water and I cannot open these for the life of me. Am I doing something wrong? I left the cans in the pan of steamy water (that was microwaved for 5 minutes) for about 3 minutes and I still can't get these things open. Something wrong with my method?
 
Mar 3, 2011 at 9:59 PM Post #1,881 of 5,004
 
Hello, noob here.
I tried opening my SR60's with steamed water and I cannot open these for the life of me. Am I doing something wrong? I left the cans in the pan of steamy water (that was microwaved for 5 minutes) for about 3 minutes and I still can't get these things open. Something wrong with my method?


Microwaving pure water in a glass container for five minutes may not be the safest way to proceed.  I don't know how long it would take to superheat that water, but two other elements - pure water and the glass container - should raise some eyebrows.  The superheated-water phenomenon doesn't happen every day, but if you were to produce it, the results would be about as fun as checking your radiator on a hot July in Hell.
 
Using a teapot, you can easily create the right effect by heating the water on a stovetop until it starts to boil.  At that point, just pour an inch or so of it into a pan and then set the cups in it - driver side up.  You just want them in there long enough to loosen the hot glue - before you warp the shells or turn everything into jello.  For my purposes, this happens in less than 30 seconds.  With care, and with very hot water dripping off of them, I've grabbed the shells and pulled them apart with no problem.
 
If neither the steam nor the hairdryer method work, such as with the SR325, just find a screwdriver, insert it into the gap created for the cable in each cap, and use that gap to wedge the cups apart.  It works like a charm.
 
 
Mar 3, 2011 at 10:20 PM Post #1,882 of 5,004
it took me quite a while to separate the cups too.
 
well i used an aluminum pan on a hotplate to boil the water, then i reduced the temperature setting to the point where it does not boil anymore. put my grado in there and well, around 30 seconds slid open. the "the prestige series" logo kinda thing did come loose too...
 
 
 
Mar 3, 2011 at 10:47 PM Post #1,884 of 5,004
^ why would a big hunk of bear like you own a girly hair dryer?  
biggrin.gif

 
Mar 3, 2011 at 11:07 PM Post #1,890 of 5,004


 
Quote:
So you heat up the shell for 5 seconds then pry it open? I just tried that and these things still won't open. I must be doing something very wrong or something.


Try heating the shell cap only with the hair dryer on high for one minute and immediately afterward begin to pull it off. Note: it may take a few seconds for the cap to begin to slide off.
 
Good luck, Bill.
 
 
 

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