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SR60-Mod
Mar 4, 2011 at 5:56 PM Post #1,907 of 5,004
There are so many pad mods for Grados, and I settled on the 414s for a long time, but I've finally worked up the courage to vent the 60s - even if (to my ears) its not an 'improvement', at least I'll be able to nod sagely when I read threads like this :)
 
Mar 4, 2011 at 8:19 PM Post #1,908 of 5,004
thanks sooo much for the offer bill, but i think i've conjured up the courage to take on the driver myself. but like an idiot i tried to blow out the invader with a high pressure hose and it looks like i wrinkled the mylar...oops. now it sounds worse 
 
how should i proceed to take it all apart? i started chipping off the edges with your method of using a knife and a sledge hammer. 
 
here are some pics
 
here are some pics. 
 
messy messy 
 
Quote:
bilavideo said:
 

Originally Posted by kitesrfun1 /img/forum/go_quote.gif

 
 
You likely have a foreign object inside your drivers.  That object may be a hair, a little bit of dust or even some remnant of the felt you punctured in order to vent the driver.  If you hear it at any volume, you've got an object inside your driver.  If you hear it only when you crank up the sound, it's possible you have loosened the Mylar surround.  If you're worried about it, and don't want to take a chance, you can send it to me and I will look at it for you.  With your permission, I am willing to fix the driver so it doesn't buzz.  This is not a commercial offer, just a service I'm willing to lend to you as a fellow headfier.
 

Those cups are gorgeous.  You must be very pleased.
 
Click to expand...



 
 
Mar 4, 2011 at 8:59 PM Post #1,909 of 5,004
Sharkz-I'm in Allentown so when you get shelling let me know and I'll have my driver roll me over and we'll listen to these and compare.
 
OK-so when Bill told me about the shells, I had a thought to make Uber Grados witha secret little ingredient which I dded today and I must say this was everything I had hoped for and more. I hang out on audiocircle and a guy over there found and started using and selling these:

 
You smoke the cigarette and then take the other thing-EVS Ground Enhancer and attach one to each negative terminal on your amp, speakers, anywhere and with my system on the speaker terminals on my amp (MP-301) I have one of thes on ech channels negative terminal...SOOOOOOOOOOOOO..Bill and I chat and he sends me shells and while I'm cracking these babies open I keep thinking what would they do to cans?? So a friend on audiocircle was selling a pair I grabbed them and today I finally temporarily attached them inside each cup to the negative terminal and let the white part-tail sit around the outside of the inner cup and put everything back together. It sounds amazing, there is just sound coming from the air round my head, I have the large pads, Cocobola shells and thes EVS thing which nobody really understands but they work and my UBER Cans are done for the moment. I know Alex-Wywires in LA and he and I are are talking about having him recable these with his cables which I also have and they are great---so these are turning into the nicest cans I ever owned right now I'm there and recabling would be icing on the cake.
 So anyway---audioadviser has them I think but they are called another name..these little babies are worth checking out if you see them. these were like $25 shipped and its not too much and the sound is so smooth and clear, very even alla round but the punch is there on the kick drum, the air is there from Grado's house sound...wow!!!
 
Mar 4, 2011 at 9:59 PM Post #1,910 of 5,004
I have been doing some googling the last couple of days trying to figure out the tonal qualities of different woods and have read some really interesting thought provoking stuff while surfing through various sites, mostly about guitar making. How guitars are basically constructed as a top and a bottom. I wonder if this same sort of logic can be applied to headphones, with the inner shell being akin to the top wood on a guitar. I've been wanting to partially liberate my drivers to get rid of some of that plastic and replace it with wood. The predominant choice for topwoods in the guitar world seem to be either cedar or spruce paired with something used for the back and sides. Rosewood, Mahogany, Ziricote, etc. Anyway one of the things I came across was this chart.
 

 
 
Mar 4, 2011 at 10:07 PM Post #1,911 of 5,004
kneeljung said:
I have been doing some googling the last couple of days trying to figure out the tonal qualities of different woods and have read some really interesting thought provoking stuff while surfing through various sites, mostly about guitar making. How guitars are basically constructed as a top and a bottom. I wonder if this same sort of logic can be applied to headphones, with the inner shell being akin to the top wood on a guitar. I've been wanting to partially liberate my drivers to get rid of some of that plastic and replace it with wood. The predominant choice for topwoods in the guitar world seem to be either cedar or spruce paired with something used for the back and sides. Rosewood, Mahogany, Ziricote, etc. Anyway one of the things I came across was this chart.
 

 
Click to expand...


This is really interesting. What I have found in my limited experiments is that the softer wood for the inner shell coupled with a harder wood on the outside gives a wider tonal spectrum.
 
Mar 4, 2011 at 10:07 PM Post #1,912 of 5,004
Very cool...I have another pair here just waiting to be Amazing!!!!  
 This has and continues to be a blast...
 Ed
 
Mar 4, 2011 at 10:13 PM Post #1,913 of 5,004
Some guy from Grado sent me an email asking about using my mod for something...LOL..
 Ed
 
Mar 4, 2011 at 10:44 PM Post #1,914 of 5,004
And the lawsuits begin!
evil_smiley.gif
<- lawyer (not all are evil of course!)
 
Mar 5, 2011 at 12:23 AM Post #1,919 of 5,004
Quick question for eclein or anyone else with Bila cups, how deep are the cups? The wood I bought today is only 1" deep, which is what I have for my current Mahogany cups, but I am thinking I need to go deeper. The solution is either glueing two rings together or a 1 inch ring with a slightly larger ring on the outer edge, a la the Grado RS's. Not sure how I want to go about this. Lack of proper lumber thicker than 1" and hole saws that can handle thicker wood is hurting me right now.

 
 
Mar 5, 2011 at 12:48 AM Post #1,920 of 5,004
 
sharkz said:
Quick question for eclein or anyone else with Bila cups, how deep are the cups? The wood I bought today is only 1" deep, which is what I have for my current Mahogany cups, but I am thinking I need to go deeper. The solution is either glueing two rings together or a 1 inch ring with a slightly larger ring on the outer edge, a la the Grado RS's. Not sure how I want to go about this. Lack of proper lumber thicker than 1" and hole saws that can handle thicker wood is hurting me right now.
Click to expand...

 
I have cups that are deeper but 1" is actually just fine.  Take a look at the PS1, the original that inspired the RS1 (mahogany), which inspired the SR60 (as a plastic RS1).  Instead of a turtle head poking out of a turtle shell, the primary chamber is just slightly smaller than the secondary chamber.  A very nice set of shells can be created using 3/4" for the primaries and the same 3/4" or 1" for the secondaries.  I have some Brazilian rosewood cups that came from wood that was 1 1/2" deep, so the headphones follow that.
 
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