Big Bill
100+ Head-Fier
- Joined
- Jan 16, 2011
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Congratulations Ed!
For those interested, I was able to successfully dye Sennhesier pads.
Basically I used RIT liquid dye. I filled a smaller disposable tupperware container with hot water from a kettle. I put dumped some salt (several spoonfuls) and about half the container of liquid dye. I then put a few spoonfuls of white vinegar in. I then put the pads in and let them submerge, squeezing them full of dye every few minutes. I also added hot water every 10 minutes or so for about 45 minutes.
After 45 minutes in their dye bath, I then squeezed the pads out and washed them under cold water until no more dye came out. The last step was to fill my original container (washed out of course) with a tiny bit of laundry detergent and squeeze the pads in that a few times (more dye coming out) until the liquid coming out was mostly clear. I then rinsed them for several more minutes and dried them.
So far so good, no dye bleeding and nice, dark black pads. Looks much better with my wood shells than the yellow pads.
The Jaben alumod looks so tempting. If I had the tools and time, I would love to make my own shells, but alas, I am but a lowly college student.
This is now going to drive me nuts for the next couple of weeks... I probably shouldn't have bookmarked the Jaben site...
I checked it out at the Jaben website. It's a very pretty design and for $99, you're getting it at a reasonable price. That said, you should not shrink from making your own aluminum mod. Everybody has their own idea of the perfect shell - even the perfect aluminum shell. How thin do you want your aluminum? Do you want the driver that far from your ear? This Jaben design is quite professionally done but it represents one of any number of possible visions of what an aluminum shell should look like. If you want to make the mod, do it. Bring your own vision to life.
eclein, you may want to take note of this if you don't want to scratch your wood unintentionally. You should avoid moving the cup holder parts to the extremes (far inward or far outward) as well so you don't have to modify anything. A long time ago when I had Woody SR225 I didn't realize this
A more elegant solution may be to simply replace the plastic gimbal crescent with a slightly larger aluminum ring, with a hole drilled through the top so it can accommodate the gimbal rod. Fortunately, I have just such a ring. I'll send it out to you so you can perform the appropriate surgery. All the big Grados - from the RS2 up - chuck the plastic in favor of aluminum.
So the normal solution would be to pull out the plastic pin (as Bill shows in his videos)? Correct?
Actually Bill, only the RS1 up has the full moon aluminium gimbals. The plastic one is still being used on the RS2. Regarding the aluminium gimbals, what diameter/measurements did you use to make them?