SR60-Mod part II
Sep 24, 2011 at 10:34 AM Post #2,251 of 3,353


Quote:
 
Luis,
 
In my experience, the copper braid has worked better.  The pumps have essentially done little if anything at all - or, at least that was the situation for me.  They were a waste of money.

I've used the pump .... it worked fine, but honestly it takes a bit of skill to get the right angle, took me quite a while to master it, not easy to learn, nicole is probably skilled at it, once you get it right it really cleans up the solder fast and quick, two sucks for me and the whole solder was cleaned off beautifully ready to add new solder, but its hard concentrating with the pump and the solder iron at the same time, thats probably the reason .. but in that case maybe the copper braid is easier to learn, since wje has tried and tested both, i suggest you go with the copper braid ... thanks wje =)

theres a link abt ppl discussing between braid or sucker .... as you can see the opinions are quite 50/50 http://forum.metroamp.com/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=16959
 
 
 
Sep 24, 2011 at 10:38 AM Post #2,252 of 3,353


Quote:
 
Luis,
 
In my experience, the copper braid has worked better.  The pumps have essentially done little if anything at all - or, at least that was the situation for me.  They were a waste of money.



Well, not in my experience. My solder pump that I bought cheap off ebay has been great, you just melt the solder, get the pump as close as possible to the solder and press the button and boom the solder's gone and there's a perfect flat solder pad left.
 
Sep 24, 2011 at 12:11 PM Post #2,254 of 3,353
@ Nightslayer,  Looking good, my man!  Those are the Cabillas cups, correct?  Is your silver the teflon-coated material that is available?  Or, did you use another material / brand for the wire braiding?  It looks really nice, though!
 


Its not silver, though I have experimented with that before. Blew 40 bucks to DIY a cable which ended up being too stiff/unwieldy for my liking and ended up using Canare L4-E6S stripped of its sheath and shield and resheathed in shoelace/transparent heatshrink. Thanks for the compliment, and yes I did get the last shipment of his cups, a pity that he stopped helping head-fiers get them from his carpenter (I showed two of my friends my cans and I have two people who want me to help them make an identical pair :rolleyes:). Fantastic guy to deal with, really.
 
Sep 24, 2011 at 12:35 PM Post #2,255 of 3,353
Speaking of Cabillas, any new on the group buy idea?
 
I just tested the connections of the driver with a multimeter I had no idea I had around the house. There's juice flowing into that driver. Man, I can't wait for my gear to show up. I got cheap again and ordered online...
 
Sep 24, 2011 at 12:40 PM Post #2,256 of 3,353


Quote:
Owch those dont look too good. I solder mine myself, made a mistake once and used a spring-loaded solder sucker (got mine for around 3usd / 9myr ) to remove the solder so my wires were free first, but be careful to suck out the solder at the right places. And you should apply solder on the naked copper wires before soldering them back to the driver, that will prevent stray wires and a much better connection. Removing the whole solder is healthy don't worry, and re-soldering it will give it a much cleaner finish

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Aw4lZGk90i4 heres a link. Its easy really 
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I prefer the soldering wick myself. Hate having to reload the sucker when I'm holding an iron. Poked a hole in my dining chair where it almost stabbed me, and have a few burns from the damn iron as it is lol
 
 
 
Sep 24, 2011 at 1:08 PM Post #2,257 of 3,353
I don't understand how people are so clumsy with soldering irons... the only time I've ever had a problem is when I had the great idea of modding a pair of headphones when I had been drinking and hit my finger with the tip.
 
Sep 24, 2011 at 1:34 PM Post #2,258 of 3,353
I managed to get my SR80i's open now using the hair blower method, but now a new possible issue. I removed the connections in both cans (I verified everything was still working before removing them), and now when I put the multimeter ends to where the ground and signal was in the can (on the solder remains), the multimeter gets a reading. Happens with both cans. Is this ok?
 

 
Sep 24, 2011 at 3:30 PM Post #2,259 of 3,353


Quote:
Speaking of Cabillas, any new on the group buy idea?
 


I haven't heard back from Curawong, yet.  He was going to check if it would be OK.  in all seriousness, it wouldn't even be much of a group buy.  The quantities essentially are:
 
4 Pair of Iroko
2 Pair of Sapele
 
One individual sent me a PM with an interest in a pair of Sapeles.  The pares down the list a bit more.  Plus, my last PM from Cabillas was a bit earlier - he was going to give me an update in a day or so regarding shipping, etc.
 
 
 
Sep 24, 2011 at 5:36 PM Post #2,261 of 3,353


Quote:
I haven't heard back from Curawong, yet.  He was going to check if it would be OK.  in all seriousness, it wouldn't even be much of a group buy.  The quantities essentially are:
 
4 Pair of Iroko
2 Pair of Sapele
 
One individual sent me a PM with an interest in a pair of Sapeles.  The pares down the list a bit more.  Plus, my last PM from Cabillas was a bit earlier - he was going to give me an update in a day or so regarding shipping, etc.
 
 




Hey Wayne, if this happens I'd be interested in a pair of the Iroko
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Sep 24, 2011 at 7:12 PM Post #2,262 of 3,353


Quote:
I managed to get my SR80i's open now using the hair blower method, but now a new possible issue. I removed the connections in both cans (I verified everything was still working before removing them), and now when I put the multimeter ends to where the ground and signal was in the can (on the solder remains), the multimeter gets a reading. Happens with both cans. Is this ok?
 



what were you actually measuring with your DMM when you put your leads back to the ground and signal?
 
Sep 24, 2011 at 7:45 PM Post #2,263 of 3,353


Quote:
I haven't heard back from Curawong, yet.  He was going to check if it would be OK.  in all seriousness, it wouldn't even be much of a group buy.  The quantities essentially are:
 
4 Pair of Iroko
2 Pair of Sapele
 
One individual sent me a PM with an interest in a pair of Sapeles.  The pares down the list a bit more.  Plus, my last PM from Cabillas was a bit earlier - he was going to give me an update in a day or so regarding shipping, etc.
 

If there's a possibility of getting aluminum cups made I'd join the bandwagon. I don't know if they would be made by the same person as the woodies, though.
I'd love to see more people interested on joining the wood revolution - there's so much awesomeness to be had even with entry drivers...
 
 
 
 
Sep 24, 2011 at 8:38 PM Post #2,265 of 3,353


Quote:
If there's a possibility of getting aluminum cups made I'd join the bandwagon. I don't know if they would be made by the same person as the woodies, though.
I'd love to see more people interested on joining the wood revolution - there's so much awesomeness to be had even with entry drivers...
 

 
I think we might not see the light on this (aluminum cups with wooden inserts).  I'm sure time for Cabillas is very special and his focus is on his family and career.  Though, I've got to admit, he was a very bright, and good thinking individual that could take his ideas, draw them up on AutoCAD and then have some prototypes made.  I'm not sure what might have gotten in the way.  I suspect it all comes back to family and other priorities.  Also, the mail system in Spain seems to be a bit hard to deal with, too.  I think those of us here in America assume that other countries have progressed as though we have, when that's not always the case.
 
I can get quite a few things locally - yet, there's still a lot that I need to rely on the Internet for such as: heavy duty leather sewing needles, bonded nylon thread, leather, Neutrik cable ends, specialty wire and a few other things.  Now, if I could have access to those goodies within 30 minutes of me, I'd feel as though I've lived in a mecca.  
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