SR60-Mod part II
Aug 16, 2011 at 5:55 AM Post #1,501 of 3,353
Are there any more in-depth guides on recabling the SR60s?  My audio is cutting out when the cables move around because I pushed the cups in too far while putting them back on and it cut through to the bare copper wire. :frowning2:
 
I know how to solder for the most part, and I've read a lot of the dos and don'ts in this thread for soldering Grados, but I know nothing about what cables to get, what the ground cable is, how to sleeve the cabling, etc.  I want to learn though, as I like doing things myself instead of say paying someone to do it for me.
 
I heard navships on ebay is a good seller for cabling, but again I have no idea what I need.  Thanks for any help.
 
Aug 16, 2011 at 6:33 AM Post #1,503 of 3,353
So my African Mahogany cups came in from Marty today.
 
And I assembled the headphones and it was perfect for 5 mins.
 

 
Then this happened...
 

 
The holes weren't aligned properly and I couldn't tell, since they fitted so perfectly, as a result tightening the screws put too much strain on the gimbals and CRACK!
 
Something snapped within me too..
 
Aug 16, 2011 at 6:46 AM Post #1,505 of 3,353
eek.gif
That really sucks Saintkeat. I'd cry if such thing happened to me.
frown.gif
Those are beautiful though.
 
Aug 16, 2011 at 8:40 AM Post #1,506 of 3,353
oh man... thats terrible. Even with a broken gimbal, they are amazing looking
 
Aug 16, 2011 at 9:42 AM Post #1,507 of 3,353


Quote:
 
I sent this as a PM to Billavideo, however he doesn't seem very active as of lately so I was hoping for some outside help =)

 

I was reading a thread about making the SR325is sound better and I came across this post.

 

Quote:

 


Here's what you do.

 

1. Open the cups and vent the drivers (punch all ten holes to really unleash the tiger by increasing the airflow).

2. Damp the magnet back with something like Dynamat or BluTack.

3. Remove the plastic button from the back as it bounces HF waves right back into the presentation.

4. Remove the plastic ring stuck near the rear grill as it has no use and adds unwanted resonance.

 

If you will make these mods, your 325 will become the Voice of God. You will not be able to take it off. You will lose sleep because you won't want to stop listening to your music. I did this and was completely and utterly blown away.

 

 

Naturally I don't value sleep so this sound very enticing to me. I don't want to fk up my headphones(very expensive) by messing around with them without knowing what I'm doing. This seems very complicated can I pay people do do this?

 

How exactly does this make the 325is sound better. Any drawbacks? I've been told by a forum member that venting is not a good idea(why would they close them in the first place is it was?). Can anyone elaborate?

 
Welcome to the Fray NA. Just so you know Bila is persona non grada around these parts these days; but his original enthusiasm and knowlesge fomented a great community that grew up around head-fiers that are willing to aim a hair dryer at their headphones, pull them apart, and start tinkering. That's my first suggestion for getting them apart, the hair dryer technique. Grado uses hot glue to keep the cups and the driver housing together. Just warm up your cups with a hair dryer, loosen up the glue and pull them apart. Apparently it's a good idea to use a towel too with the 325' too because the aluminun gets hot with the hair dryer. You probably only need to zap em with the hair dryer for about 60 second too, but YMMV.
 
Like I said last night in the thread you started though...sometimes less is more. All ten holes is crazy. I actually just did it on some SR60's that I just got working again and it just whacks everything out. On 325's I wouldnt even mess with venting they supposedly have plenty of bass. Venting the holes messes with the other frequencies too though, so start slow and work your way up if you do any venting. The biggest thing like I said last night is to start with that plastic ring inside the cup. So my recommendation is open the cups, remove the ring, put them back together and see what you think.
 
The dab of dynamat on the drivers is actualy a topic of conversation right now that you can read on the last 2 or 3 pages of the thread. I hope that helps.
 
Aug 16, 2011 at 10:59 AM Post #1,510 of 3,353


Quote:
Are there any more in-depth guides on recabling the SR60s?  My audio is cutting out when the cables move around because I pushed the cups in too far while putting them back on and it cut through to the bare copper wire. :frowning2:
 
I know how to solder for the most part, and I've read a lot of the dos and don'ts in this thread for soldering Grados, but I know nothing about what cables to get, what the ground cable is, how to sleeve the cabling, etc.  I want to learn though, as I like doing things myself instead of say paying someone to do it for me.
 
I heard navships on ebay is a good seller for cabling, but again I have no idea what I need.  Thanks for any help.



Skin the stock cable, you should have enough to shorten the stock cable up to the earcups and be ok.
 
Otherwise Canare is your cheapest option:
http://www.performanceaudio.com/buy/Canare/4S6/533
 
It's good stuff too :)
 
To sleeve the cabling, ask one of us, I'm all tapped out of sleeving otherwise I'd just comp you on 6' of it, sorry mate!
 
I use this stuff though
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/3-8-BRAIDED-NYLON-SLEEVING-audio-TECHFLEX-25-ft-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem35a1c1c457QQitemZ230347097175QQptZBoatQ5fPartsQ5fAccessoriesQ5fGear#ht_500wt_956
 
You shouldn't need a sleeve though, the Canare is jacketed. You just need to literally buy 5-6' of it, skin it to expose conductors, and solder the appropriate ends to their appropriate areas.
 
As for a plug, I have a fat crush on the Zombie-X/DHC plugs right now. Zombie sells em for 6 bucks a pop with free shipping, can't get any better than that!
 
If you've got questions, I'd be glad to answer them for you, nobody should go without a pair of Grados in this thread.
 
Aug 16, 2011 at 12:07 PM Post #1,511 of 3,353

I almost forgot how much I love thos thread.
 
 
Quote:
so i just got my cups from cabillas , came in the plastic bag from postage and the cups were wrapped in bubblewrap.. and they came with a black mesh ..... however i didnt really like it as the wire of the mesh was thick and coated in black paint ... methinks that it was gotten off a stationery cup mesh ... anyway, i noticed my mom's kitchen sieve . stainless steel mesh made from china ... around 3usd only after converting it back from malaysian ringgit
removed the mesh from the sieve slowly... took pliers and eased it out of its shell ....didnt have a wire cutter with me and couldnt wait to buy one so used a pair of garden shears (please do not do that) wonder if my dad will find out that his garden shears has gone all blunt ...=(
 
i removed the mesh from the sieve and then cut them out into circles ... easiest way to cut mesh is not to draw a circle onto the mesh but to draw a circle onto a piece of paper then hold it omto the mesh while you cut around the circle .. plus no marks on the mesh. =)
 
I hot glued the cut grill inside the cups .. quite easy.


tada ... lol sainless steel grill mesh from a  kitchen sieve ... =) best part about it is it wont rust ... =)


Genius! I'm gonna do the same. mom's kitchen, beware!
 


Quote:
 
I'll let you guys know when I receive these:
 

 
 
(Credit to Martin for the pictures)
 
I don't have any shells right now so I can't test it or anything. Once I receive those shells from Martin later on in the week I'll put it together and try it. I will also post some pictures too.
smile.gif


this is just beautiful. makes me want to have another woodie.
 


Quote:
So my African Mahogany cups came in from Marty today.
 
And I assembled the headphones and it was perfect for 5 mins.
 

 
 

 
that was beautiful, but looked kind of fragil, I'm gonna stick with plastic and/or metal hinges.
 
Aug 16, 2011 at 12:32 PM Post #1,512 of 3,353
OHhhhhh man!!!!
 
 
Painful just to look at! :frowning2:
 
Quote:
So my African Mahogany cups came in from Marty today.
 
And I assembled the headphones and it was perfect for 5 mins.
 

 
Then this happened...
 

 
The holes weren't aligned properly and I couldn't tell, since they fitted so perfectly, as a result tightening the screws put too much strain on the gimbals and CRACK!
 
Something snapped within me too..



 
 
Aug 16, 2011 at 1:57 PM Post #1,515 of 3,353
@Saintkeat: What kind of cable is that you have in the background?
 

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