Hmm... Well no matter how I approach this I'm going to have to find a way to somehow suspend speakers from the ceiling. No idea how I'm going to do that. Problem for this weekend perhaps.
One question. How exactly do I combine files? The Smyth website has some tool for combining files. Do I use that? Can I do it on the machine?
Not necessarily. I made a 16 channel PRIR using two floorstanding speakers in a fixed (and normal) position. For the front top speakers I bended forward looking down, 45 degrees (which actually was not exacly the proper angle I think but it sounds great anyway), and for the middle top speakers I bended forward 90 degrees, and for the rear top speakers I sat backwards on the couch bending backwards 45 degrees. I later attached (small) speakers to the ceiling and made new PRIRs, but I still prefer that first PRIR. The localization of the virtual speakers sounds real to me.
It's a perfect tool for building larger room PRIRs.. selecting individual channels from multiple PRIRs can be somewhat frustrating as the number of channels increases.
But it's also the tool where you would change the speaker label of a specific channel.
For the front top speakers I bended forward looking down, 45 degrees (which actually was not exacly the proper angle I think but it sounds great anyway), and for the middle top speakers I bended forward 90 degrees, and for the rear top speakers I sat backwards on the couch bending backwards 45 degrees.
My experience is in line with that of @Litlgi74: when I measured the 16 channel PRIR I did the front wide speakers in two steps, first measure the front left speaker as the left front wide speaker while looking 30 degrees right (as center lookangle, etc.), then in the next step the front right as the right front wide speaker while looking 30 degrees left etc. But all in one PRIR.
For the front top speakers I bended forward looking down, 45 degrees (which actually was not exacly the proper angle I think but it sounds great anyway), and for the middle top speakers I bended forward 90 degrees, and for the rear top speakers I sat backwards on the couch bending backwards 45 degrees.
For those just starting out with measurements... Unless you have a multi-channel speaker setup and are willing to use the asynchronous method... I would recommend capturing PRIRs in pairs. It's just safer that way.
It is not unheard of for the Realiser to create errors, freeze up, as well as unforced user errors... All of which will force to start the process over.
It's a perfect tool for building larger room PRIRs.. selecting individual channels from multiple PRIRs can be somewhat frustrating as the number of channels increases.
But it's also the tool where you would change the speaker label of a specific channel.
The speaker changing label is the most important thing. For example, if you have one of Giles asynchronous files, say, 5.1, and you face 180 degrees and run it, all the speaker labels will be wront. the L become Rb, and R becomes Lb, etc. So by having that tool, it's possible to just change the way you face, run the PRIR, get several additional channels, not included in the conventional 5.1 Async PRIR files, and do it quickly and conveniently without changing very much other than a few labels.
Good point... But there is a fix for that... there is a feature for you to "Override Preamble IDs". This way you can label your speakers properly regardless of speaker or your seated position prior to starting the async process.
Not necessarily. I made a 16 channel PRIR using two floorstanding speakers in a fixed (and normal) position. For the front top speakers I bended forward looking down, 45 degrees (which actually was not exacly the proper angle I think but it sounds great anyway), and for the middle top speakers I bended forward 90 degrees, and for the rear top speakers I sat backwards on the couch bending backwards 45 degrees. I later attached (small) speakers to the ceiling and made new PRIRs, but I still prefer that first PRIR. The localization of the virtual speakers sounds real to me.
Oh yeah, take care that when looking backward, away from the speakers, whether for the rear tops or just the rear speakers, that the left and right speakers are switched so to speak.
There are several ways to solve this. You can do it by assigning the proper labels in the PRIR sound room before the measurement. Or you can use the composite PRIR builder to correct the speaker labels afterward. Or, you could also just switch the left and right RCA plugs going to your amp for those measurements.
The method of bending forward or backward for certain channels is not very suitable when doing a lot of lookangles over a wide range, better limit yourself to the standard 3 (0 degrees, 30 degrees left, 30 degrees right). And be carefull that you turn your head over the proper axis when bending forward or backward: always turn around the axis that goes through the middle of your head and neck. I say this because I once helped someone measuring his PRIR and he tended to pivot his head instead of turning it the proper way. I hope you understand what I mean, I find it difficult to put into words.
Also you can not use headtracker assist with this bending method. What I did is put some markings at points to look at at various moments. Now it is easy to make a mistake because you may be wrong about what direction you are actually aiming your head at (for example because you inadvertently also turn your eyes towards the aiming point, and hence your head not enough). I found it usefull to subsequently close the left and right eye and estimate the sideways distance of my aiming point to my nose, and try to have equal distance in both cases. Only then is your nose really pointed at the aiming point.
hi!! i just set the manloudman HPEQ , but seems to be a mess! all the stage moved to the left, i tried to set the sound of the frequencies to be in the center and manually set all the volume equal at the first frequency, i saw in the video was necessary set the volume level at 80 as reference but for me is very loud and painful in the higher frequencies, any tips to set it correctly?? the dummy head with autoeq give me great results i'm afraid i'm missing something if i don't learn to set the manloud correctly, regards!
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