[John_M]

Thank you - that's interesting. Your answer (1) is different from a previous answer I had on this thread!

Could I ask a completely different question?

I'm currently using an A8 to play on PS5 but it will not allow HDMI passthrough at 120fps - even if I set the PS5 to output HDMI 1.4 rather than HDMI 2.0.

Is there any solution to this that doesn't involve buying an A16?

For example, is there an HDMI passthrough device which allows passthrough at 120fps and also has a DAC and analogue outs that I can send to the Realiser? (Ideally one with a DAC that doesn't trash the sound quality!)

Or could I use an HDMI splitter splitting the PS5 HDMI out into one output which goes direct to the TV (@ 120 fps) and the second output which goes to the A8. The idea would be that the PS5 would 'handshake' with the TV which it cannot do correctly if the signal goes through the A8 before reaching the TV, but the A8 would still be able to get the audio from its split output? (No doubt someone will tell me that this is going to fail to work!)

 

[John_M]

I wasn't expecting it but the splitter approach does seem to work.

I say 'seems to' because I tried it with a switcher rather than a splitter. With a switcher I can get either video to the TV or audio to the Realizer (without passing through the Realizer) but not both at the same time.

I'm ordering a $10 splitter that can support 120Hz to see if this works.

 

[sander99]

Your answer (1) is different from a previous answer I had on this thread!

Now I am curious. What exactly did you think was or was not possible? Could have been a misunderstanding of some sort. For example the other way round, using an A16 7.1 PRIR with an A8 is not possible. Although Smyth should be able to convert an A16 PRIR to an A8 PRIR if they wanted.
Also in the beginning the first happy A16 owners didn't immidiately succeed in loading an A8 PRIR in their A16 because a specific folder structure was needed on the SD card and that wasn't explained in the manual. We learned that a little later from the Smyth youtube videos.

 

[John_M]

Now I am curious. What exactly did you think was or was not possible? Could have been a misunderstanding of some sort. For example the other way round, using an A16 7.1 PRIR with an A8 is not possible. Although Smyth should be able to convert an A16 PRIR to an A8 PRIR if they wanted.
Also in the beginning the first happy A16 owners didn't immidiately succeed in loading an A8 PRIR in their A16 because a specific folder structure was needed on the SD card and that wasn't explained in the manual. We learned that a little later from the Smyth youtube videos.

I've had a look back and I think I'm misremembering what was said before - ignore my previous post!

 

[Eich1eeF]

I wasn't expecting it but the splitter approach does seem to work.

I say 'seems to' because I tried it with a switcher rather than a splitter. With a switcher I can get either video to the TV or audio to the Realizer (without passing through the Realizer) but not both at the same time.

I'm ordering a $10 splitter that can support 120Hz to see if this works.

A simple splitter probably won't work, since those will invariably output the same signal on all ports. A HDFury Vertex 2 might do what you want, but it's rather costly. Your TV probably has ARC/eARC, and there are devices that turn EARC into a "normal" HDMI output. If you have an A8 with HDMI, that's probably what you need.

 

[Litlgi74]

I'm not sure I understand your question, but if you are asking how do I connect a balanced D&D 8C active speaker to the Realiser's single-ended outputs for measurements, then the answer is I use the "balanced output" from an Iso-Max input isolator to send signal to the 8Cs via a balanced XLR cable.

To convert single-ended RCA to balanced XLR, I use an Iso-Max PI-2RX from Jensen Transformers Inc., which is a special order version of their Iso-Max PI-2XX product.

​

I believe Symth uses a similar type of box (I don't know the make/model) to connect their active speakers to the Realiser outputs for their traveling demos. I captured this image from Realiser demo video.



Let me know if I didn't answer your question.

If any one has any interest.. the Smyth's are using DTI – Dual Transformer/Isolator



https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0009GUOQ...abc_54EQZ9TH5RQZEH99VEYV?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

 

[bpinnell]

Does anyone else have trouble with the "Game" port on the front? I hear nothing when connecting a headset to it. Is that something that has yet to be activated?

 

[Eich1eeF]

Does anyone else have trouble with the "Game" port on the front? I hear nothing when connecting a headset to it. Is that something that has yet to be activated?

I don't see any mention of the game port in the manual or the release notes, but I seem to recall that its activation has been postponed. However, the block diagram would indicate that you're using it wrong - I would assume that, when activated, you should connect normal headphones to HP A (or B) and the headset microphone to the Instrument Mic in, and the A16 would expect the chat audio as stereo analog input on the game console port and mix that into the L/R speakers of whatever signal it is playing, and it would only output the microphone signal on the game console port.

 

[bpinnell]

I don't see any mention of the game port in the manual or the release notes, but I seem to recall that its activation has been postponed. However, the block diagram would indicate that you're using it wrong - I would assume that, when activated, you should connect normal headphones to HP A (or B) and the headset microphone to the Instrument Mic in, and the A16 would expect the chat audio as stereo analog input on the game console port and mix that into the L/R speakers of whatever signal it is playing, and it would only output the microphone signal on the game console port.

Thanks. The manual states the following:

GAME port – for a stereo headphone output signal and mono microphone input signal (3.5mm 4-pole socket)

 

[Broke]

If any one has any interest.. the Smyth's are using DTI – Dual Transformer/Isolator



https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0009GUOQ...abc_54EQZ9TH5RQZEH99VEYV?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

I would recommend upgrading to the balanced version of the Realiser if you plan on using a balanced speaker output long-term.
I tried these transformers and it did not help with the ground loop problems I had - it actually made things worse.

I wish Smyth had shipped the Realiser with a grounded power supply, and have considered replacing it.
It seems difficult to find a power supply with the same output that is not absolute junk, though.

But the Realiser does not make it easy to switch back and forth between speakers/headphones, if you use a different channel layout; e.g. virtual 16ch for headphones, but 2ch speakers.
It lacks typical AVR features such as distance correction, bass management, EQ/room correction, and more.
And the output volume is very low if you aren't outputting to many speaker channels. The fewer channels you have, the lower the volume limit will be set. Even the default max of 79 is low on the balanced version, and the limiter will quickly lower that.
It really seems like the speaker output is only there as a way to create PRIRs, and is not intended to replace an AVR.

Does anyone else have trouble with the "Game" port on the front? I hear nothing when connecting a headset to it. Is that something that has yet to be activated?

It doesn't appear to work yet, even though there were notes to say that it had been activated recently.
I'm hopeful that they can get it working, as it would be nice to connect a low latency gaming headset to the Realiser. Most are USB now, rather than S/PDIF.

 

[esimms86]

I would recommend upgrading to the balanced version of the Realiser if you plan on using a balanced speaker output long-term.
I tried these transformers and it did not help with the ground loop problems I had - it actually made things worse.

I wish Smyth had shipped the Realiser with a grounded power supply, and have considered replacing it.
It seems difficult to find a power supply with the same output that is not absolute junk, though.

But the Realiser does not make it easy to switch back and forth between speakers/headphones, if you use a different channel layout; e.g. virtual 16ch for headphones, but 2ch speakers.
It lacks typical AVR features such as distance correction, bass management, EQ/room correction, and more.
And the output volume is very low if you aren't outputting to many speaker channels. The fewer channels you have, the lower the volume limit will be set. Even the default max of 79 is low on the balanced version, and the limiter will quickly lower that.
It really seems like the speaker output is only there as a way to create PRIRs, and is not intended to replace an AVR.



It doesn't appear to work yet, even though there were notes to say that it had been activated recently.
I'm hopeful that they can get it working, as it would be nice to connect a low latency gaming headset to the Realiser. Most are USB now, rather than S/PDIF.

I use an Uptone Audio UltraCap LPS 2.1 power supply with my A16. It’s expensive at 435 USD, howeve, the A16 is also quite expensive if bought retail(mine is a Kickstarter unit). In my case, I had sold a piece of kit that I had previously been using the PS on so I just ended up repurposing it.

 

[John_M]

A simple splitter probably won't work, since those will invariably output the same signal on all ports. A HDFury Vertex 2 might do what you want, but it's rather costly. Your TV probably has ARC/eARC, and there are devices that turn EARC into a "normal" HDMI output. If you have an A8 with HDMI, that's probably what you need.

I can report that a £10 splitter from Amazon does work. PS5 is reporting 120fps and audio is fine. It was a little temperamental at first but it got there. One output is sending 120fps to the TV (actually a monitor) and the other is sending audio to the A8. Yes I do have the HDMI version.

It didn't work at first and I was considering getting an HDMI splitter with a DAC and 7.1 analogue output and HDMI 2.0 passthrough but this proved unnecessary. You just need to check that the splitter can pass through a 120fps 1080p signal, which the A8 cannot.

 

[John_M]

Just to add - if anyone's interested, I did a bit of playing around and as one of a few tweaks to get this to work, I set the PS5 sound output device to 'AV Amplifier' rather than 'TV.' This may have helped, although I haven't tested - it may just be that the Amazon splitter was a bit temperamental.

 

[Litlgi74]

I would recommend upgrading to the balanced version of the Realiser if you plan on using a balanced speaker output long-term.
I tried these transformers and it did not help with the ground loop problems I had - it actually made things worse.

I wish Smyth had shipped the Realiser with a grounded power supply, and have considered replacing it.
It seems difficult to find a power supply with the same output that is not absolute junk, though.

But the Realiser does not make it easy to switch back and forth between speakers/headphones, if you use a different channel layout; e.g. virtual 16ch for headphones, but 2ch speakers.
It lacks typical AVR features such as distance correction, bass management, EQ/room correction, and more.
And the output volume is very low if you aren't outputting to many speaker channels. The fewer channels you have, the lower the volume limit will be set. Even the default max of 79 is low on the balanced version, and the limiter will quickly lower that.
It really seems like the speaker output is only there as a way to create PRIRs, and is not intended to replace an AVR.



It doesn't appear to work yet, even though there were notes to say that it had been activated recently.
I'm hopeful that they can get it working, as it would be nice to connect a low latency gaming headset to the Realiser. Most are USB now, rather than S/PDIF.

Thanks for the advice.... The device will only be used for RCA to XLR conversion when using powered speakers for my project.

 

[DaveN]

Best products for ground loop issues: https://www.jensen-transformers.com