[AppleheadMay]

Once eARC is enabled on the A16 (assuming you have the updated hardware) you’ll be fine. Run your PC and consoles to your CX, use eARC to get sound from the CX to the A16.

This is the reason that I sent my A16 back for the upgraded HDMI board. I have a 55” CX that I got in April. I’ll be upgrading my PC to a 3090 and will buy both new consoles. The way my setup is wired is HDMI 1 is my PS4 to be replaced by a PS5, HDMI 2 (the eARC port) my A16. HDMI 3 my PC where I’ll be upgrading my 2080 Ti to a 3090, and HDMI 4 is my Xbox One X to be upgraded to a Series X. Then connected directly to the A16 HDMI ports is an Oppo UHD player, Nintendo Switch, Nvidia Shield Pro, and Apple TV 4K. Once they enable eARC on the A16 I will be able to send uncompressed audio from the gaming devices to the A16 while still being able to take advantage of HDMI 2.1.

That is an option, thanks!
Now if they would just send me the A16 somewhere this year ...

 

[VandyMan]

I'm not entirely sure how you want to link your devices, but I think that if you intend to use CEC to power on the ATV, you'll have to use eARC to route the audio to the A16. The datasheet for the MDS HDMI board doesn't mention CEC passthrough, just handling of CEC in the device itself, e.g. to turn the A16 on and off.

I want the A-16 to be able to be turned on/off by the ATV over HDMI. I want the A-16 in turn to have the option to turn on/off my actual display over HDMI. No pass thru or eARC needed. Video: ATV>A-16>Sony TV, Audio: ATV->A-16>DAC

The ATV remote also controls the volume on my DAC, so it gives me a very easy to use system. I do have to use the A-16 remote sometimes, of course.

I stopped using my Harmony remote because it seemed like they were no longer adding new device support. Plus, while the ATV remote is not great, it works better than the Harmony for interacting with the ATV, IMO.

Does Harmony support the A-16 or do you have to set it up manually?

 

[Got the Shakes]

I want the A-16 to be able to be turned on/off by the ATV over HDMI. I want the A-16 in turn to have the option to turn on/off my actual display over HDMI. No pass thru or eARC needed. Video: ATV>A-16>Sony TV, Audio: ATV->A-16>DAC

The ATV remote also controls the volume on my DAC, so it gives me a very easy to use system. I do have to use the A-16 remote sometimes, of course.

I stopped using my Harmony remote because it seemed like they were no longer adding new device support. Plus, while the ATV remote is not great, it works better than the Harmony for interacting with the ATV, IMO.

Does Harmony support the A-16 or do you have to set it up manually?

I used a Harmony with the A16, but I basically had to set everything up manually. I also stopped using it about a month ago because I was losing too much functionality with my devices like my LG OLED with the Magic Remote and the use of voice search on my Apple TV 4K and NVidia Shield Pro.

 

[pervysage]

Ah okay, good to know that you are not necessarily REQUIRED to have a display connected to the A16... but for whatever reason, mine is not liking when there is no display present lol.

Besides that, having to have the "phantom" display appear on your PC is still kind of annoying but somewhat manageable if you put it up and out of the way (otherwise your mouse can end up on the phantom display and get lost).

I think I figured out this issue I was having. Possibly had to do with me not having the 'Exclusive Mode' settings activated in Windows 10 audio settings for the A16. I had unchecked them previously as I like to do on all my audio devices but it seems that the A16 really depends on these being checked off to function without issues.

But yeah, now it runs the A16 just fine without having to have a display connected to the HDMI out.

This also fixed another issue I was having where upon a restart of the PC, the A16 wouldn't immediately reconnect on it's own and show NO HDMI AUDIO until I toggled between Stereo/7.1 audio & Dolby Atmos in Windows 10 audio settings (so basically I had to switch to PCM and then switch back to Atmos to get it working again after a restart). It also caused the A16 not to switch rooms automatically when switching to different types of audio sources (listening to PCM music, then switching over to a Dolby 5.1 movie, and then switching to an Atmos movie etc).

Now the only thing I wish were possible was getting rid of the "phantom" display that is created from hooking up the A16 via HDMI. I feel like it's just unnecessary load on the GPU having to have that extra "display" there that really isn't there, lol. But it seems to be a limitation of HDMI that a video signal is always required alongside the audio.

 

[x7007]

Can anyone do a good review on how to use this device? I want to buy it for using with HD800s headphones on the Computer for Dolby Atmos movies and Games VSS surround.

 

[jazzfan]

Title: HDMI AV Pass-through in Standby Mode Workaround

Earlier this year, Tidal announced the availability of Dolby Atmos Music. Since I first heard the news, I looked for a low-cost way to give Atmos Music a try. Now with an Amazon Fire TV 4K Stick (~ $49) as a source, I've finally had the chance to experience Dolby Atmos Music on Tidal.

I've always used the Realiser primarily for 2-channel listening. While my A16 2-channel experience has been nearly identical to the A8, my Atmos music experience has been quite different. How the two formats compare is a topic for another day. But what I'd like to share today, as I eluded to in the title, is a workaround for an A16 issue that I've experienced, and I believe others in this thread have also encountered.

The A16 annoyance I wish to discuss is its inability to pass-through an HDMI input AV signal while the A16 is in standby mode (i.e., powered off). Having to keep the A16 powered on to pass-through an HDMI signal even when I'm not using the A16 is an inconvenience. The workaround solution I employed requires the use of an HDMI splitter. However, the full solution required an overly complicated combination of hardware, HDMI settings, and resetting sequences, which I've detailed below.

At least for me, this workaround achieved the result I need until Smyth Research can implement a permanent solution for a passive HDMI pass-through feature. It's important to note this fix is only applicable for single-source systems. If support for multiple input sources is required, another approach would be needed. I'm aware that other configurations or solutions may be available to achieve this goal. However, as I mentioned, this particular workaround works for me in my system. Your mileage, of course, may vary.

Hardware

• LG 47LE8500 TV
• OREI 1x2 HDMI Splitter(UHDS-102) ~$25
• Realiser A16 (Firmware 1.81)

System Configuration

Setup Steps

1. Power on the FireTV4K/LG TV combo.
2. Power on the A16.
3. Navigate to the HDMI Settings page and turn ON Audio Bypass (Press the Menu key, Scroll to Settings, System, HDMI Settings). In my case, I would lose audio to the TV.

4. Restart FireTV4K (Audio to the TV would return).
5. Restart a track in Tidal.
6. Turn OFF Audio Bypass (audio to the TV should stay on, and SVS audio to the A16 should start).
7. Power off the A16.

At this point, the HDMI AV signal to the TV should be fully functional, and the A16 should be in Standby mode. This solution may also work for a connected AVR or Soundbar, but I've yet to test either of those other devices.

I'm curious to know how other A16 owners have addressed this issue, or whether this is even of concern to others. If you've implemented another approach that works, I'd love to hear about what you did in your situation.

 

[x7007]

How from 1,000 euro it cost now 4$ K

Are they insane??
Someone is selling it 2nd hand?

 

[sander99]

How from 1,000 euro it cost now 4$ K

Are they insane??

I think the higher price results from a combination of factors:
-Smyth had to put in a lot more development work than they initially anticipated, and maybe also initially underestimated the hardware costs
-at some point Smyth partnered up with Heavenly Sound, which involves contacts with a world wide distribution network and now they have to include a profit margin for the dealers (and probably they have an agreement that they can not sell directly for a lower price)

If you consider that the A16 can potentially "replace" a high end home theater sound system - a 24 channel one in the new version - then maybe $4k is not so terribly expensive...

I preordered for around $2k, so I consider myself "half lucky".

 

[x7007]

I think the higher price results from a combination of factors:
-Smyth had to put in a lot more development work than they initially anticipated, and maybe also initially underestimated the hardware costs
-at some point Smyth partnered up with Heavenly Sound, which involves contacts with a world wide distribution network and now they have to include a profit margin for the dealers (and probably they have an agreement that they can not sell directly for a lower price)

If you consider that the A16 can potentially "replace" a high end home theater sound system - a 24 channel one in the new version - then maybe $4k is not so terribly expensive...

I preordered for around $2k, so I consider myself "half lucky".

I thought about it, but then I don't know. couldn't they do some discount? I mean if no one buys it then what would be the gain?? for a price of like 3$ K is reasonable. but 4$ K is too much. Also add 130$ Delivery cost to the 3,999.90

 

[SobiC]

I thought about it, but then I don't know. couldn't they do some discount? I mean if no one buys it then what would be the gain?? for a price of like 3$ K is reasonable. but 4$ K is too much. Also add 130$ Delivery cost to the 3,999.90

I thought about buying a porsche, but then I don't know. couldn't they do some discount? I mean if no one buys it then what would be the gain?? for a price of like 75$ K is reasonable. but 100$ K is too much. Also add 1300$ Delivery cost to the 99,999.90

Well, one can always ask...good luck.

 

[AppleheadMay]

I thought about buying a porsche, but then I don't know. couldn't they do some discount? I mean if no one buys it then what would be the gain?? for a price of like 75$ K is reasonable. but 100$ K is too much. Also add 1300$ Delivery cost to the 99,999.90

Well, one can always ask...good luck.

A Porsche for 100k? Cheapskate, taking the lightest engine and skimming on the options.
A decent Porsche has a stick, no turbos and starts just below 300k.

 

[sphynxxx]

Would you guys pursue the hd800 or the Hd800S? It will be used mostly with the A16.

 

[SobiC]

A Porsche for 100k? Cheapskate, taking the lightest engine and skimming on the options.

Just like my Realiser: only the basic 16 channels, 1 head-tracker and a remote cheaper than the wrapping

And just like Porsche I'm a Swabian, we ARE cheapskates...

 

[sander99]

Would you guys pursue the hd800 or the Hd800S? It will be used mostly with the A16.

I remember reading somewhere that the hd800s are deliberately designed to have more distortion in the low end to give a subjective impression of having more bass. And what seems logical in that context: I remember a InnerFidelity video where Tyl Hertsens says that if you are going to use eq you may be better off with the hd800.
So for the A16 - that of course does a lot of filtering - the hd800 seems to be a more logical choice to me, especially if you can get it cheaper than the hd800s.

 

[phoenixdogfan]

I remember reading somewhere that the hd800s are deliberately designed to have more distortion in the low end to give a subjective impression of having more bass. And what seems logical in that context: I remember a InnerFidelity video where Tyl Hertsens says that if you are going to use eq you may be better off with the hd800.
So for the A16 - that of course does a lot of filtering - the hd800 seems to be a more logical choice to me, especially if you can get it cheaper than the hd800s.

Plus you can do the SR mod for around $10 which takes care of the 6k resonance about as well as the 800S and you won't create the bass distortion of same.

Won't get the cool back paint job or the balanced cable, though.