Dec 18, 2023 at 6:59 AM Post #15,541 of 16,946
@mrmac:
Now, I don't want to cause a lot of confusion or panic (or maybe I do :beyersmile:), but...

What speaker layout(s) do they have in the showroom?

9.1.6 is that Atmos 9.1.6 with 6 top (ceiling) speakers, exactly what the A16 - 16 channel version - supports for Atmos?
Or "Atmos 9.1.6B" with front- and rear height and middle top speakers?
Or something different?

And what about DTS X (if applicable)?

And what about Auro 3D (if applicable)?

(I myself have no DTS X or Auro 3D - yet - so I haven't really thought all this through myself...)
 
Dec 18, 2023 at 2:51 PM Post #15,542 of 16,946
@mrmac:

Some advice that may be helpful from someone who has only been doing PRIRs at home recently, with the good fortune of following the advice of the many pros here.

If your hardware only runs 2.15 firmware, wait until new firmware that, we hope, fixes the PRIR and HPEQ issues is released.

Positioning the microphones is tricky, particularly by yourself (which is what I do). I found Rene's post #7381, with the photos, very useful. I use the positioning and cord routing that is shown there.

I use the "headtracker assist" mode, rather than marking positions in the room. You'll need a small speaker that you can plug into the L/R HP-A RCA outputs. During the async measurement of each speaker (not the calibration round, the actual measurement round) there will be a pair of high-pitched beeps just before the sound that instructs the A16 to measure the particular speaker. Be prepared to hit "pause" the moment you hear them! Your external speaker will give you feedback on head position. Simply turn and tip your head until the sound goes away. Fix your eyes on some object on the wall in that position and hit "play" to continue.

As the old joke goes ("Q: How do you get to Carnegie Hall?", "A: Practice!!!") practice at home with the async files. At the very least watch the 9.1.6 Atmos Async file to be prepared for the sequence of steps. You can always use a 5.1 file at home to have a shorter practice session, but it will be very useful because the first few times the steps come very fast. Best to have repeated it enough so that it is boring. The practice will also help you "pause" and "play" on the remote without looking.

The Club Realiser async files do not have a "noise" section at the beginning to set overall system volume. You can get a useable noise file from the async files in the Google Drive, Room 25. The sound level is surprisingly high, though not noticeable with your microphones in place. On my system a normal listening level is -20dB, and the A16 measured recommended level is something like -4dB. The noise file is a 12-channel WAV file, so you'll need something to play it (a windows PC with VLC works fine, and either the AVR or media player at the studio will probably be able to handle it).

Make sure the actual speakers fire according to the movie from the async file. I used a 5.1.2 async file at home initially, and had my AVR setup incorrectly and discovered afterwards that both Lss and Lb measurements used my Lss, likewise for Rss and Rb. I needed to use "Direct" mode on my Denon. Also pay attention that the mode utilizes the room equalization setup in the AVR; on my Denon that means "Direct" and not "Pure Direct". For 9.1.6 I would guess any mismatch to the Club Realiser file would be very unlikely, but best to check. You can use "preamble override" as necessary to correct a mismatch (for example, Lb swapped with Lss). The order of the speaker names, and the names themselves, in your PRIR sound room will be used in the resulting PRIR file in the order that the async file does the measurement.

Save some time and pre-populate your PRIR sound room file with virtual speaker names matching the names shown in the Club Realiser async video.

My room at home and AVR is 7.1.2, so I did two PRIR measurements, one facing forwards and one facing backwards (with preamble overide), with the virtual speaker names in the PRIR sound room appropriately swapped left for right for facing backwards. This lets me build listening rooms with larger speaker counts, and with the speakers sounding at the correct positions. At your studio, this will let you measure a center rear, and depending on seating position, you might find later that you prefer building a listening room with some of the backwards measurements.

Be sure to build a listening room or two or three from your PRIR files after your measurements and check that you are happy with the results. Best to bring your favorite MCH samples. And, using "test"mode on the A16, it's useful to listen to each virtual speaker one at a time to be sure you are happy with the apparent placement. The actual async measurement doesn't take that much time, so take advantage of the studio time to perfect your PRIRs.

During the async measurements your A16 need only be connected to your microphones and head tracker (and small external speaker if you use headtracker assist mode), so place the A16 in a convenient spot next to you in the studio room. That little LCD screen is very difficult to see otherwise.

After you join Club Realiser, be sure to download their A16 manual. I used Acrobat Reader if I recall correctly to translate the French into English. Sometimes just seeing a particular A16 operation described by a different person makes all of the difference in coming to the correct understanding.
 
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Dec 18, 2023 at 7:56 PM Post #15,543 of 16,946
Just seeing if any of you have had a good experience with 2 in and 1 out HDMI splitter. I bought from amazon https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B07K2NZX8L?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details&th=1 but it was not stable. I was doing a blu ray video in and eARC from the A16 in to the splitter and then from the splitter to my eARC TV. When I am playing the blu ray, it gives an unstable video that goes in and out and then if I use the eARC to the A16, it doesn't detect the eARC audio. Perhaps I need to get a splitter that has a power source to keep the signal strong? The one bought does not have a separate power source.
 
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Dec 19, 2023 at 9:19 AM Post #15,544 of 16,946
Just seeing if any of you have had a good experience with 2 in and 1 out HDMI splitter.
I use the Ezcoo splitter in two of my systems. The one with the A16 is deployed as follows:

All sources feed the AVR, then the monitor out of the AVR feeds the input of the spliter. One output goes to the LG C965 TV, the other goes to the A16 HDMI1 input.

Been stable for three years, and zero impact on the video quality, as I get full 4K and Dolby Vision on the TV.

This is the unit: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07VP37KMB/
 
Dec 19, 2023 at 9:29 AM Post #15,545 of 16,946
Just seeing if any of you have had a good experience with 2 in and 1 out HDMI splitter. I bought from amazon https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B07K2NZX8L?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details&th=1 but it was not stable. I was doing a blu ray video in and eARC from the A16 in to the splitter and then from the splitter to my eARC TV. When I am playing the blu ray, it gives an unstable video that goes in and out and then if I use the eARC to the A16, it doesn't detect the eARC audio. Perhaps I need to get a splitter that has a power source to keep the signal strong? The one bought does not have a separate power source.
While you should use a powered splitter, switcher or matrix, I'm having trouble understanding what exactly you tried to achieve. And I'm saying this as someone who has very deep and complex HDMI chains. Maybe try explaining what exactly it is that you want to do, and what you tried to do. Include all connection pairs and specify exact output/input ports.
 
Dec 19, 2023 at 11:07 AM Post #15,546 of 16,946
While you should use a powered splitter, switcher or matrix, I'm having trouble understanding what exactly you tried to achieve. And I'm saying this as someone who has very deep and complex HDMI chains. Maybe try explaining what exactly it is that you want to do, and what you tried to do. Include all connection pairs and specify exact output/input ports.
sure...it is unusual what I am trying to achieve. I have a hidden HDMI cable (in the wall) from my TV to my blu ray, AVR and A16. When I use the blu ray and A16, I would like the that HDMI cable to be connected to the blu ray directly so that the video goes to the TV, while a secondary HDMI goes to the A16. When I watch netflix etc on the TV with the A16, that hidden cable also is used as an eARC and would connect directly to the A16...so each time I switch between the 2 sources, I have to move the hidden cable end from the blu ray to the A16...the obvious solution is to run another HDMI cable behind the wall to connect the source to the TV, but it is too difficult. No biggie, I can deal with my unique situation manually. The other obvious solution which I forgot was just to feed the blu ray into the A16 and then that same hidden HDMI cable will feed out from the A16 at the same output as the eARC on the A16...was trying to separate the video and audio at the blu ray point.
 
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Dec 19, 2023 at 12:39 PM Post #15,547 of 16,946
sure...it is unusual what I am trying to achieve.
Yes, unusual. My suggested fix is to forget using the in-built apps of the TV, they are usually inferior implementations, and the networking stack on most TV's is horrible (I'm in the networking space, I know how bad it usually is).
The correct setup is to use a box like an AppleTV 4K for all the streaming services. It typically has the best implementations (getting approved by the Apple App Store is daunting), and it has great features, including a video autocalibration mode if you also own an iPhone.

Run everything to the AVR, then split the AVR output like I do, as noted above. My AVR (Denon X3600) will pass through the last selected input when it's on Standby.
 
Dec 19, 2023 at 1:39 PM Post #15,549 of 16,946
Yes, unusual. My suggested fix is to forget using the in-built apps of the TV, they are usually inferior implementations, and the networking stack on most TV's is horrible (I'm in the networking space, I know how bad it usually is).
The correct setup is to use a box like an AppleTV 4K for all the streaming services. It typically has the best implementations (getting approved by the Apple App Store is daunting), and it has great features, including a video autocalibration mode if you also own an iPhone.

Run everything to the AVR, then split the AVR output like I do, as noted above. My AVR (Denon X3600) will pass through the last selected input when it's on Standby.

I don't have an AVR, so I connect my Apple TV and other HDMI devices to my LG TV and then my TV's eARC output to my A-16. Works quite well and it gives me the option to use the TV's WebOS apps, if I ever need to.
 
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Dec 19, 2023 at 2:04 PM Post #15,550 of 16,946
I am probably going to just get a used, older Apple TV as my Hisense eARC’s handshake with the A16 is “shaky”…sometimes, it does not pass atmos on..have to do a dance with playing atmos on the tv speaker then bring in the A16 handshake.
 
Dec 19, 2023 at 4:33 PM Post #15,551 of 16,946
I am probably going to just get a used, older Apple TV as my Hisense eARC’s handshake with the A16 is “shaky”…sometimes, it does not pass atmos on..have to do a dance with playing atmos on the tv speaker then bring in the A16 handshake.

I had issues like that too, but it works fine as long as I let the A-16 fully start up before turning on any other HDMI devices.
 
Dec 20, 2023 at 8:13 AM Post #15,552 of 16,946
Guys , did everybody got his Realiser A16 , i did pre-oderd in 2017 and still not received it yet and now we are in 2024 almost
 
Dec 20, 2023 at 8:27 AM Post #15,554 of 16,946
I am probably going to just get a used, older Apple TV as my Hisense eARC’s handshake with the A16 is “shaky”…sometimes, it does not pass atmos on..have to do a dance with playing atmos on the tv speaker then bring in the A16 handshake.
You could try something like https://www.orei.com/products/4k-hdmi-audio-extractor-arc-earc-auto-edid-management-hda-929, or potentially the cheaper https://www.orei.com/products/earc-...hrough-hdr-dolby-vision-hdr10-support-hda-927. This is enough if you only have one external device. If you need more you can add a separate switcher, though you'll get a slightly longer blank screen duration when the signal format changes. You would connect the OUT 1 to your TV's eARC port, and the OUT 2 to one of the A16's input ports. No eARC used on the Realiser at all (nothing connected to the Realiser output port). It SHOULD be able to magically switch between the external device and the TV when necessary, however sometimes these devices are a bit buggy in that regard.

A far more desirable solution would be to use an external streamer like an Apple TV though.
 
Dec 22, 2023 at 2:15 PM Post #15,555 of 16,946
#mylife #whocares
I'm back home for the holidays after being away since September. Coming back to the A16 after all this time of crappy laptop tweeters, IEMs sans DSP, and low fi car radio, I'm falling in love all over again.
 

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