[xiamen]

Hi Dean. Hm. I think I've done all I can do in roon. If I connect the SU-1 and LKS by coax it works fine - it just doesn't sound any better than going from my 200 ultra straight to the DAC.

The LKS is the only DAC I've ever used with roon, and thanks to xiamen's good advice earlier I was sure to uninstall all old drivers before loading the last one for the SU-1. I've attached what I see in roon, but it seems like it's an SU-1/LKS handshake issue now.

EDIT: I've added a third photo, which is what I see under "roon ready" in the SOtM web GUI.

Your photos seem to show that Roon can see the Singxer, and ask you to identify it and enable it. I guess you did that? How are you connecting the Singxer to LKS004? Using hdmi cable into i2S input on LKS I hope.

 

[DEANO2]

It appears to be asking you to enable the Singxer in Roon with Asio . I'm assuming they are Asio drivers for it. It appears you have done everything right , ask Roon also try and see if there are any Forums on Computer Audiophile , the guys on that are brilliant. So try enabling it in Roon and then bang an email off to Roon after all you pay a hefty fee for it.

 

[aggielaw]

Yes, that is all confusing. To install the drivers and update the firmware on the Singxer I had to connect the Singxer to my computer directly via USB. When I did that, roon saw it as a playback device. When I removed the Singxer from direct connection to my computer so I could wire it between the SOtM and LKS, roon did not delete the Singxer. I guess it remembers every audio device you ever plug in to your computer. So, although you see Amanero and Singxer as devices directly connected to the computer, that is not actually the case.

It is interesting to me that in the SOtM web GUI it specifies the Singxer as an audio device. It is as if both roon and SOtM see the Singxer as a playback device instead of merely a converter. Very strange.

 

[DEANO2]

Can I suggest trying direct via your usb output and bypass the sotm for a day or two , then enable it in Roon. After a few days re-insert the sotm . I use Jriver with an Uptone Regen and audioquest jitterbug with a Gustard u12 via usb into an Nad m51 via aes/ebu I had difficulties at first but dropping the Regen out for awhile did it.

 

[nick77]

Hi I have a like new SU-1 I am no longer using, purchased from Kutsune Audio, it has been modded with the prescribed mods on Computer Audiophile thread and has the Kitsume DC conversion done to accept external linear power supply of choice. This elevates the performance substantially. Shoot me a PM if interested.
https://kitsunehifi.com/product/singxer-su-1-dc-power-conversion-kit-kitsunehifi-2-1mmx5-5mm/
https://www.computeraudiophile.com/...-mini-review-of-the-singxer-su-1-ddc/?page=14

 

[allhifi]

Audioquest Carbon - highly recommend. I tested AQ Coffee as well but difference in SQ doesn't exactly match difference in money you have to spend. But yes, is bit better.

I've sat on the toilet and done some thinking lately. Contemplating life and somewhere in that, HDMI cables came into the picture.

dot dot dot. Awhile back when I had my Holo Audio Spring (now owned by my neighbor), I used a WireWorld Starlight 5.2 & 7 in 0.3M and 0.5M length. To me there was less bending with the 0.5M which was a plus, and when comparing to the shorter 0.3M, I could not tell any audible differences.

Later down the road I picked up a super short 0.5FT cable from Sewell called the "Silverback S6". Due to the shorter length, I had to positioned my Singxer SU-1 right above the Holo Audio Spring next to it's HDMI port otherwise the cable didn't reach. As you may know, I²S is not made for long runs so the theory was that the shorter cable would be better.

0.5FT > 0.3M > 0.5M

After over 6 hours of A/B test with my favorite benchmark songs, that theory (for me), was true, HOWEVER, only when comparing to other cables that were 1 meter or longer. The build quality of the Sewell may not be as great as the WireWorld, but it's shorter distance saved it from jitter. The WireWorld may not be as short the Sewell, but it's improved materials (wire, shielding ,connectors, and design) and build quality saved it from jitter. At the longer length of 1 meter however, nothing can save it. The losses can only be reduced. This was evident when I compared the same cable, a [COLOR=FF0000]WireWorld Starlight 7[/COLOR] but in two different lengths, 1 meter and 0.3 meter. The longer cable had more of a metallic sound to it, the digital edges were sharper and had more glare to it. This was easily noticeable on a R2R Ladder + NOS setup.

After my experimentation, I kept the super short Sewell cable, but still also kept the [COLOR=FF0000]WireWorld Starlight 7[/COLOR] (only 0.3M) as I liked the aluminum connector... I sold the 0.5M one to my neighbor...dot dot dot. Fast forward a couple weeks later. My equipment placement changed and so I could no longer make use of the super short cable (giving to @T Bone
soon). What's left was my 0.3M cable. Strange enough, The 0.5M cable I sold to my neighbor was a little long for him, so he went out and bought a shorter cable as he heard from me that shorter was better. Then came the [COLOR=6633CC]WireWorld Ultraviolet 7[/COLOR].. in 0.3 meter.

Sitting there beside him I thought to myself... If the WireWorld Starlight 7 0.3M & 0.5M sounded the same to my ears, wouldn't the Ultraviolet 7 as well? but wait.. the material and design is not on the same level as the Starlight 7 so in theory it should sound worse, or perhaps at this short length it shouldn't matter?

After another 6 or so hours of A/B testing with my buddy, we found the two to sounded exactly the same. Because of that reason, I will be departing my Starlight 7 0.3M and he him, his Starlight 0.5M. From now on we'll both use the [COLOR=6633CC]WireWorld Ultraviolet 7[/COLOR] (0.3M).

BUT WAIT.. THERE'S MORE.

HDMI transmission was made for audio and video. Television interlinking. Designers of audio circuits such as PS Audio (among many others) simply made the HDMI port as a standard for sending and receiving I²S data as they felt it was a good type of connection. It's more than good actually.. The HDMI connection is superior as it offers a balanced way to transmit data.

In I²S internal protocol, these are the main bits that are transferred over.

• DATA (Serial Data) - also known as SDATA
• LRCLK (L/R Clock, Word Clock, or Frame Clock) - also known as LRCK, WCK, or WCLK..
• BCLK (Bit Clock or Serial Clock) - also known as SCLK, SCK, or BCK.
• MCLK (Master Clock) - also known as MCK

In HDMI, each of these paths are paired with its own independent ground (return) thus becomes less susceptible to interruptions. There are other I²S connectors used in audio such as the RJ45 (or DIN, D-Sub, BNC, etc). Some do it better than others. Some do NOT provide their data and clocks with it's own independent ground at the input/output thus hurts signal fidelity during transfer. For susceptible paths like I²S, this increases jitter. Think of it like balanced vs single ended design.



Unbalanced I²S, signal conductor becomes susceptible to noise (which induces jitter).




Balanced I²S, signal conductor becomes less susceptible to noise due the noise being canceled out (through polarity inversion).

Now when it comes to the I²S port (HDMI) offered by Holo Audio Spring & Singxer SU-1, I wanted a cable that was worth the money and offered the least amount of diminishing returns. This was why i settled on a $6.95 super short cable from Sewell in the first place. It provided the same performance for a fraction of the price. Sure one could throw money in and buy the best cable out there and no doubt it'll perform well, but that's like buying a pricey condom for no reason. You end up with a Magnum XL, plenty of extra "headroom", but none of which you can actually use.

Anyways.. dot dot dot.. I wanted to understand why the [COLOR=6633CC]WireWorld Ultraviolet 7[/COLOR] sounded as good as the more expensive [COLOR=FF0000]WireWorld Starlight 7[/COLOR]. Was it because at 0.3M length material science didn't matter as much? What could it be? What is the inner workings? What sorcery is this!

The Starlight 7 was clearly better ON PAPER.

• 23 GA wire vs 24GA wire (thicker wire)
• 24 conductors vs 16 conductors (twice as much wire for the important stuff)

I had to think broader than just reading off specifications. To truly understand how well an HDMI cable can work for audio use (I²S in particular), one must understand how it's pins are configured. Below is the configuration for Holo Audio Spring and Singxer SU-1.




If you pay close attention, the main pins used are 1, 3, 4, 6, 7, 9, 10, and 12. This carries the I²S data and clocks.

Now if you look at a conventional HDMI cable, the grouping of the wires appear so:



As you can see, The vital wires (or pins) are placed in the correct group brackets and not left floating, unshielded, or bunched together with what could be noisy. The problem with this conventional HDMI cable is those wires are not isolated enough and can suffer from cross-talk. It's group wires are only shielded from one another with the use of mylar aluminum foil. WireWorld offers both the foil as well as a copper braid over each grouping (A, B, C, and D). By improving on signal fidelity one improves on jitter (theoretically).




Now what does the [COLOR=FF0000]WireWorld Starlight 7[/COLOR] achieve?
Well for starters it's 8 core wires that carries I²S data is now twice the size (now 20 gauge). It's "DNA HELIX" design correlates to its core wires being twisted in pairs. Now what does this translate to?




A thicker wire means more power handling and greater signal fidelity (less resistance).
The intended purpose of twisted pairs is to cancel out electromagnetic interference and reducing cross-talk.
All important things in maintaining a pure signal for I²S. But where does this leave us?

My theory is that at the recommended length for I²S , the thickness in wire does NOT matter ENOUGH.
Improvements gained in a thicker cable with twisted pair, it loses in length. Length in which is extremely vital in I²S transmission where every millimeter counts. Why? The fact is that twisted or braided wires use MORE wire than a single wire at the same length. Not only that, but now there are two wires open to picking up noise, not 1. Don't forget the Starlight 7 is a thicker cable and harder to bend.

The circuit traces that connects to the input or output of those HDMI connectors are nowhere near 24 gauge. A standard HDMI cable has 28 gauge, a high speed one has 24 gauge, but that is measured in long length usages. Bottom line is, WireWorld HDMI cables are overkill for I²S transmission.. Even the affordable Chroma 7 should be more than sufficient for the task and I have doubts of it sounding any worse than both the [COLOR=FF0000]WireWorld Starlight 7[/COLOR] &[COLOR=FF0000] [/COLOR][COLOR=6633CC]WireWorld Ultraviolet 7.[/COLOR]

Why am I not getting a Chroma then? Well I don't like yellow. Over time the inner materials may break down the copper thus decrease its conductivity. I prefer having a silver plating over my conductors. Last but not least.. the metal shell looks nice and offers extra shielding.

Hmmmm. Wish the same could be said for Audioquest; yesterday I purchased and connected a AQ 'Chocolate' HDMi 1.0m (i2S duty Gustard U-12/X-20PRO) that simply blew away the Cinnamon (1m) that replaced the Forest (2m) and Pearl (2m).
The 'Forest was a clear improvement over cheapest Pearl. Cinnamon (I think) -lol was better. Stone cold out-of-box, 'Chocolate' 1m astounded -immediately. And has 'composed' itself now, 36-hours on.

Very highly recommended.

pj

 

[allhifi]

thanks for all the info on i2s cables, I decided to get a bluejeanscable 1ft hdmi for my su-1 kitsune edition(don't have it yet).
maybe we should merge threads with this other thread? http://www.head-fi.org/t/820897/singxer-su-1/45

thanks for all the info on i2s cables, I decided to get a bluejeanscable 1ft hdmi for my su-1 kitsune edition(don't have it yet).
maybe we should merge threads with this other thread? http://www.head-fi.org/t/820897/singxer-su-1/45

Find (buy/borrow) a Audioquest 'Chocolate' HDMi; BJ cable will make for a 'stylish' printer cable.

pj

 

[uncola]

yah I ended up preferring the flat red one from ebay. the "bonded" feature of the bluejeanscable one seemed to be all hype, for i2s use anyway
this is the one I got from ebay Apollo AV Lightning v2 0.5M HDMI 5% Silver-plated OFC v1.4 High Speed w/Ethernet

 

[NCSUZoSo]

I'm using two identical SU-1 clones (FUN01 V1.1) to do capacitor comparisons and I am wondering what is the lowest voltage capacitor that is safe to use in the positions of the aluminum electrolytics on the SU-1/FUN01? I realize there are more than one version of the SU-1, but please just stick to my question and don't start ranting about why Chinese clones are the devil.

From what I have read, the voltages are 5-7V, so would a 16V Sanyo OSCON be okay in all 6 positions? One other question, is there any truth in people saying that the capacitor nearest the XMOS has the biggest change? I wouldn't have thought so based on my experimenting, but curious if anyone has comment on this topic.

I'm comparing against Rubycon BlackGate™ F, Rubycon RX30, Sanyo OSCON, Nichicon Muse, Nichicon Fine Gold, ELNA Cerafine, ELNA SILMIC, ELNA ARS SILMIC Super Gold, ELNA ToneRex, etc.

I had a decent amount of people asking me to test the OSCON series, but it only goes up to 16V from what I found (correct me if I am wrong).

Feel free to come by and check out my site, I'm working on the Potomac AA-51 for getting accurate THD, IMD, Phase and more measurements. I landed on using screw terminals in the capacitor holes and you can get the rest of the details if interested in link below.

https://hallmanlabs.com/2018/10/11/...son-testing-in-progress-photos-and-a-preview/

If anyone has any suggestions on how to improve or general feedback/criticism, you can find my contact info on the site or comment at the bottom.


Thanks for any help you can provide!

 

[rafabro]

I answered you on other forum

 

[Thenewguy007]

Did Singxer ever release a firmware upgrade so it can do 384Hz?
I remember only the Kitsune edition got that special firmware edition.

 

[jimmychan]

The SU-6 is debuted.

 

[Thenewguy007]

The SU-6 is debuted.

So when are we going to get the Kitsune & Magna edition of it

 

[Sage Encore]

Hi All.
Happy New Year to all. May I know how to find out which FW my Singxer SU-1 is running? My chain is as follows:

soTm Ultra Neo>soTm Usb Ultra>Singxer SU-1>Pontus DAC>Simaudio HAD430>Abyss Phi CC


It works fine, just that I want to know if I am on the latest FW. Fyi, the soTm Eunhasu sees the Singxer SU-1 as mentioned above.

Thank you,

 

[ozzy_scl]

Hi All.
Happy New Year to all. May I know how to find out which FW my Singxer SU-1 is running? My chain is as follows:

soTm Ultra Neo>soTm Usb Ultra>Singxer SU-1>Pontus DAC>Simaudio HAD430>Abyss Phi CC


It works fine, just that I want to know if I am on the latest FW. Fyi, the soTm Eunhasu sees the Singxer SU-1 as mentioned above.

Thank you,

Hello mate, if you're on windows 10, you have to click on the singxer icon (on the notification bar) under properties it would say something live v2.0, v2.20 or v2.22 (if you have updated your FW)