Shure KSE1500 Review - Shure KSE1500 Sound Isolating Electrostatic Earphones
Mar 10, 2020 at 9:20 AM Post #4,891 of 6,060
Interesting I was not aware of the app.

I actually use this EQ while running analog input - so not using the Shure's DAC, just the amp. However, it sounds markedly better than a stock KSE1200 with these configurations.

Dan
Depending on how good the source is, you got better or not by EQing.
The fact that kse's dac will runs when you turn eq ON, even FLAT.
Analog filter is big mechanisims. On nowaday devices are digital filter, your dac have to work.
If other components also good, you may hear difference of Bypass Eq v.s Flat Eq.

Below is Shure+ Play app eq UI 20200309_235910.jpg
 
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Mar 10, 2020 at 10:21 AM Post #4,892 of 6,060
I don't mean to be rude, but I don't think you grasp the notion that the DAC is not running when running through analog in.. I prefer using the built-in EQ rather than sourcing from outside sourced software EQ, as that brings in clipping and compression.

I absolutely am against EQ, but the KSE system's bult-in is some of the best i've seen bundled in hardware, and in this case, and instant improvement so long as well integrated.
 
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Mar 10, 2020 at 10:48 AM Post #4,894 of 6,060
I don't mean to be rude, but I don't think you grasp the notion that the DAC is not running when running through analog in.. I prefer using the built-in EQ rather than sourcing from outside sourced software EQ, as that brings in clipping and compression.

I absolutely am against EQ, but the KSE system's bult-in is some of the best i've seen bundled in hardware, and in this case, and instant improvement so long as well integrated.
What @TYATYA is saying is that even in analog-in mode, the internal DAC is active when EQ is on. The only time it's off is when EQ is set to bypass. (I believe that @TYATYA is right in saying it's active even if the EQ is on, but flat.)

I don't find the internal DAC all that bad. My Hugo 2 DAC is a tiny bit better, but it's not a night and day difference to my ears. If you need the EQ, go for it. The only issue I'd have with your EQ is the excessive level of mid-bass. I tried your recipe and it sounded too boomy for me. I like the sub-bass rumble, but I'm not a fan of the mid-bass boom. Did you really intend to have more mid-bass than sub-bass? That seems counter-intuitive and goes against the grain of the equal loudness curves.

I've spent ages messing about with the EQ. I know that the KSE could be more Harman-like, or have more bass, etc., but for whatever reason I keep coming back to flat/no-EQ as my preference.
 
Mar 10, 2020 at 11:46 AM Post #4,895 of 6,060
What @TYATYA is saying is that even in analog-in mode, the internal DAC is active when EQ is on. The only time it's off is when EQ is set to bypass. (I believe that @TYATYA is right in saying it's active even if the EQ is on, but flat.)

I don't find the internal DAC all that bad. My Hugo 2 DAC is a tiny bit better, but it's not a night and day difference to my ears. If you need the EQ, go for it. The only issue I'd have with your EQ is the excessive level of mid-bass. I tried your recipe and it sounded too boomy for me. I like the sub-bass rumble, but I'm not a fan of the mid-bass boom. Did you really intend to have more mid-bass than sub-bass? That seems counter-intuitive and goes against the grain of the equal loudness curves.

I've spent ages messing about with the EQ. I know that the KSE could be more Harman-like, or have more bass, etc., but for whatever reason I keep coming back to flat/no-EQ as my preference.
I hate boosting midbass usually as I try to avoid bloat; here i'm running off an iphone directly and using this EQ, I really think it's much better than stock sound. I don't feel midbass bloat, and bring the boost at 63hz to really bring bass guitars to a realistic texture and emphasis. The 125hz you see is a shelving filter.. so I don't get how you can hear midbass bloat as it's much more marginal than it shows... Again, running off an iphone which generally sounds lean, maybe that's the difference. For reference, I've had an AK380 and a Fiio M11 Pro, and sold them both off as this setting just sounded better tonally, nearly as good in resolve, yet in the end simply more enjoyable :)

If you're open to inputting my other EQ profile which is more of a high-pass 1db filter (barely smoothes the highs but just enough), with a slight increase in energy down low, yet retaining the default sound sig with a slight less sheen/ ever slight more punch - let me know. I'll gladly share too.

Dan
 
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Mar 11, 2020 at 1:09 AM Post #4,896 of 6,060
The 125hz you see is a shelving filter.. so I don't get how you can hear midbass bloat...
Normalized at 500 Hz:
danEQ.png

The 125 Hz shelf is fine. It's the broadband 60 Hz bump that I don't understand.
I'm not judging, but for me, that 60 Hz bump gets too boomy. If I thought the bass were too lean, I'd to prefer to EQ a linear rise into the sub-bass, like, for example:
1: 25 Hz, 4 dB shelf.
2: 40 Hz, 2 dB broadband.
3: 0 dB
4: 0 dB

Which gives:
csglinuxEQ.png


This is with Cp240 eartips. The treble will change with different eartips (the 10 kHz peak usually goes up with single-flange silicone, e.g., Cp800; the same peak goes down and gets rolled off faster with foam), but as long as you have a seal, the bass - and the effects of the EQ on the bass - won't change with eartip.
 
Mar 11, 2020 at 9:40 AM Post #4,897 of 6,060
Normalized at 500 Hz:
danEQ.png
The 125 Hz shelf is fine. It's the broadband 60 Hz bump that I don't understand.
I'm not judging, but for me, that 60 Hz bump gets too boomy. If I thought the bass were too lean, I'd to prefer to EQ a linear rise into the sub-bass, like, for example:
1: 25 Hz, 4 dB shelf.
2: 40 Hz, 2 dB broadband.
3: 0 dB
4: 0 dB

Which gives:
csglinuxEQ.png

This is with Cp240 eartips. The treble will change with different eartips (the 10 kHz peak usually goes up with single-flange silicone, e.g., Cp800; the same peak goes down and gets rolled off faster with foam), but as long as you have a seal, the bass - and the effects of the EQ on the bass - won't change with eartip.
Will try to replicate and get back to you. Always looking for the best sound possible!

Cheers
 
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Mar 12, 2020 at 11:05 AM Post #4,898 of 6,060
To my ear, there's only one or zero band filter for kse.
f1 6000Hz
f2 7200Hz
Gain-7

It translate to f0 somewhere 6800 and small Width or high Q.
On Neutron, by actual listening with time and patience, it is f0 6950 and Q0.20

This band (peak) is too narrow so that usually doesn't affect to instrumental but it is a hot point when sweep over that band.
Female voice's timebre slight affect. Not be metalic but hard to find a word. My English is bad. "Natural", yes maybe that word. Just, just a little.
None of standard tip suit my flavor so always modded tip. Ofcouse above peak is going with modded tip (and my ears).

My purpose of eqing, is not to change the flavor of music. But aim to do a sine sweep without any peak(I can tolerate narrow valleys) until 12khz. IMO doing so will compensate responding erros from the dap(which is mostly less than 10% of any headphones), headphone and ears resonance.
Fortunately I just need above filter, w/o or w/ that eq both are good.
Apply for neutronmp running on SP1000.
UAPP even better but not any one can install on AK daps.


20200312_231909.jpg
 
Mar 15, 2020 at 12:21 PM Post #4,899 of 6,060
Does anyone on here know what the pin configuration is for the 6-pin connector? I’m trying to build an adapter to a Stax 5-pin but can’t find anything online. Thanks!
Thanks for contacting Shure. This is case number 00432276. I reached out to our global service group and found that the pin out is as follows: (Please start from top left and work counterclockwise.



Pin 1: R- (Black Right Cable)

Pin 2: L+ (White/Blue Left Cable)

Pin 3: L- (Black Left Cable)

Pin 4: Detect (Nothing)

Pin 5: 600V (Red Both Cables)

Pin 6: R+ (White/Blue Right Cable)

Please be careful though, you are voiding the warranty on the product when you attempt a self-repair. Additionally, please take care as not to cause yourself any bodily harm.

The pin-out provided is for the cable plug side of the system. The inverse would apply for the amp end.


If you have any other questions, feel free to be in touch.

Pete Carparelli
Applications Engineer | Shure, Inc.
(312) 736-6006

The bias voltage will be properly adjusted downward before KSE’s are ever attached.
I would prefer to use a KSE1500 amp/dac but can’t find one.
I have Kingsound Amp that should have been adjusted for correct bias - but it is not working well..
Do you know how to do this?

Has anyone found that the kse1200/1500 require run in? If so how long?
Definitely a MUST for at least 250 hours !! mine started to sing after 250 hours.
 
Mar 15, 2020 at 12:34 PM Post #4,900 of 6,060
Thanks for contacting Shure. This is case number 00432276. I reached out to our global service group and found that the pin out is as follows: (Please start from top left and work counterclockwise.



Pin 1: R- (Black Right Cable)

Pin 2: L+ (White/Blue Left Cable)

Pin 3: L- (Black Left Cable)

Pin 4: Detect (Nothing)

Pin 5: 600V (Red Both Cables)

Pin 6: R+ (White/Blue Right Cable)

Please be careful though, you are voiding the warranty on the product when you attempt a self-repair. Additionally, please take care as not to cause yourself any bodily harm.

The pin-out provided is for the cable plug side of the system. The inverse would apply for the amp end.


If you have any other questions, feel free to be in touch.

Pete Carparelli
Applications Engineer | Shure, Inc.
(312) 736-6006

Thank you! I will PM you some instructions regarding the Kingsound and advice I’ve received on changing the bias. (I have the info on my desktop pc at home.)
 
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Mar 15, 2020 at 12:37 PM Post #4,901 of 6,060
Understood thanks, but did you notice a change/improvement in the earphones during the first hours/tens of hours initial use?

my understanding is that shure states that their products do not require any substantial breaking in and I can agree with that with my original 425s and my current 846s but the KSE1200s are noticeably improving in the treble the more I play them. The treble is more reigned in, less sibilant and splashy without losing detail. Growing on me more and more. Incredible sounds stage for in ears
I had mine KSE1500 for about 2 years and 1 year ago my friend bought a pair - i took his earpiece and compared it to mine, use on both the same KSA amp (mine) and the same tips. There was noticeable difference between his new and mine old.
So dont worry - just give them a long burn-in time and enjoy .
I use comply tips - there is a post here from "Jacob ISR " with good pictures telling how to do this.

Zigy.

Thank you! I will PM you some instructions regarding the Kingsound and advice I’ve received on changing the bias.


Thank you! I will PM you some instructions regarding the Kingsound and advice I’ve received on changing the bias. (I have the info on my desktop pc at home.)
THX !! my profile is new here so im not sure if i can receive PM yet.... need to gether some posts...

I did not notice tonal changing. Or it is less effect than the changing of interconnect, which I feel.
From your describe, what you hear in burning is similar to compare volume level 24 and 25/25 of kse1500 v.s lower volume level : dry and harsh.
(Ofcourse input level must be adjust adaptive with output).
Headstage of kse1500 is relatively small out of the box, especiall when run internal dac.
A wide sound stage source is called for.
1200 is no dac variant so your dap will take its role. Modding ear tip is better than any stock (some pics you can found in this thread)
The PL 3.5mm cable has a huge influence on the Stage and the overall sound - i do recommend to try the Duelund 26AWG wire - it suits the highs, improve dynamics and bass , give more front stage.
I think that there is North American site that have those cable -
https://www.partsconnexion.com/DUELUND-82810.html this is the 26AWG

If you are looking for more wider presentation (i prefer less) then take the 20AWG (Tin)
https://www.partsconnexion.com/DUELUND-82235.html - 20AWG

Be aware - the 26AWG is a single strand and very delicate wire. I've done tests with both of them.

Zigy

Wow, the is very low, definitely quite a bargain! Lately, I was considering putting my KSE1200 up for sale (to help me buy a nice DAP), but if new are selling that low, not sure anymore if it's actually worth it for me.
Dont sell, you will regret later :):) the KSE is a keeper, period. buy a longer 3.5mm cable and find a solution how to carry them.

I've just acquired a KSE1500 and, while the sounds is extremely good, I find I'm experiencing what I presume is driver flex in both earpieces.

With a good seal, pressing slightly on either earpiece, produces a click. On the right earpiece, the volume decreases along with the click. I even get a click on the right when moving my jaw significantly.

Is this normal for these IEMs?
Do not push the IEM inside - if you have a good seal this is a dangerous thing to do , the pop /click sound is probably pressure release, try to avoid doing so.
If you use comply tips - squeeze them, put into your ears and gently hold for a 10 seconds untill they seal.
If you need to adjust again - do NOT press, try to rotate instead.

Zigy.
 
Mar 15, 2020 at 5:04 PM Post #4,902 of 6,060
@ZigS I send you what info I have on Kingsound mod via PM. It looks like the PM went through ok. Let me know if you can't read or reply.

Thanks for contacting Shure. This is case number 00432276. I reached out to our global service group and found that the pin out is as follows: (Please start from top left and work counterclockwise.



Pin 1: R- (Black Right Cable)

Pin 2: L+ (White/Blue Left Cable)

Pin 3: L- (Black Left Cable)

Pin 4: Detect (Nothing)

Pin 5: 600V (Red Both Cables)

Pin 6: R+ (White/Blue Right Cable)

Please be careful though, you are voiding the warranty on the product when you attempt a self-repair. Additionally, please take care as not to cause yourself any bodily harm.

The pin-out provided is for the cable plug side of the system. The inverse would apply for the amp end.


If you have any other questions, feel free to be in touch.

Pete Carparelli
Applications Engineer | Shure, Inc.
(312) 736-6006

So am I correctly interpreting this on my diagram? It is of the headphone plug that you would plug into the amp.
6-pin with labels.jpg
 
Mar 16, 2020 at 7:10 AM Post #4,904 of 6,060
I had mine KSE1500 for about 2 years and 1 year ago my friend bought a pair - i took his earpiece and compared it to mine, use on both the same KSA amp (mine) and the same tips. There was noticeable difference between his new and mine old.
So dont worry - just give them a long burn-in time and enjoy .
I use comply tips - there is a post here from "Jacob ISR " with good pictures telling how to do this.

Zigy.
Thanks for the feedback, it is appreciated. I am using the comply tips (comfort) as well on these and now on my SE846s too.

I am definitely hearing an improvement in them the more I use them, something that I didn't notice so much with the SE846s.

The KSE1200 are simply getting better and better and the treble less bright and sweeter and sweeter as time goes on. Absolutely awesome earphone!
 
Mar 16, 2020 at 8:52 AM Post #4,905 of 6,060
Dont sell, you will regret later :):) the KSE is a keeper, period. buy a longer 3.5mm cable and find a solution how to carry them.
I didn't :).
But also still didn't find an optimal/practical way to use it on-the-go...
 

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