[takato14]

  Nice work looking forward to some favourable results.
What an awesome part you got made.
Take long to draw it up?
And is the center design based on anything else like a sennslimer perhaps?
 
Do you figure the front mesh adds anything  to the tuning. I wonder if you could simply stretch some acoustically transparent sheer fabric over the front instead of bothering with the mesh, and maybe a further thin foam to tune and add additional protection.

 
It actually didn't take very much time to make, I have quite a bit of 3D modeling experience
 
I roughly copied the original design but altered it to do two things: seal against the side of the cup and make the new acoustic lens as insignificant as possible to minimize reflections from the material I used. I also heavily tested the stock tuning against the new baffle as well as several different damping schemes to see what I could get out of this driver and they were roughly the same sounding with no damping
 
the results of the damping tests are... not good
 
the driver appears to naturally do two things: 5-7dB peak at 2kHz and 7-10dB null at 3 to 5kHz, this is an absolutely massive hole in the FR and the headphone sounds extremely distant and cavernous, I have literally never heard driver behave this way before, ESPECIALLY not one with good transient and distortion performance like these have
 
both the stock and modded sides do this so it's purely a driver design issue and nothing I did to the backwave was able to quell it, I used literally every material currently at my disposal except for dynamat and I only managed to tame some bass fart and add maybe 3 or 4dB to 1kHz through 10kHz
 
changing pads didn't do much either, not even pads that are known to boost upper frequency range
 
the only thing thats left is frontwave damping, which means I have to experiment with a waveguide/acoustic lens like Koss does for the 4AAA to boost the upper region ($$$ + weeks of time waiting for all the different iterations of the part)
 
nonetheless, this is a very rare headphone and I am GOING to get it to sound passable 

 

[takato14]

Short break from the HD-S9 for something a bit less obscure:
 

 

 
Got this absolutely pristine YH-100 off eBay a few days ago and have been listening to it for a while. This came from the original owner, with the manual, brochure, and original sales receipt. I love it when people take care of their belongings, no seriously. One of the most satisfying feelings in the world to get something that was babied so well. No box though.
 
These are heavy, but not the "good build quality" heavy unfortunately, just the "these drivers are just giant slabs of ferrite" heavy. Quite a bit rickety feeling despite being a flagship -- this is what originally made me sell the YH-1, other than being relatively unimpressed with them due to an upper midrange issue. 
 
The YH-100 is a bit different sounding, its perceptively less dark and smeared than the YH-1 and has better extension and power handling in the bass, and it's a tad more coherent and 3D sounding as well. Definitely an upgrade, but not without its tradeoffs. There's a slight shout in the middle midrange -- 1.5ish kHz -- that makes them sound unpleasant at higher volumes. The very lowest bass still rolls off compared to the Sansui as well, unfortunately. The lower treble is slightly rough. Other than that, completely passable. The soundstage is actually quite nice despite being closed. 
 
I think the Gustard is a less than ideal match for these given the (significantly) higher impedance; the SS-100 gets to a much higher level than these do overall. I know the YH-100 is capable, but perhaps the Fostex driver is simply better, and if the driver isn't getting enough power there are definitely gonna be some problems. 
 
I found an earpad configuration that eliminates the midrange shout, so I'm going to work on fixing that with some aftermarket stuff soon. 
 
Cheers!

 

[nick n]

Heck yeah! Those are beauties. They look immaculate.
 
Plus the additional paperwork is really cool, hardly see that.

 

[ruhenheiM]

wow!!! really nice collections!!
 
btw hi! for a few years, I've been collecting some of vintage headphones

 

[MuZo2]

You have nice collection too, some electrets and orthos, last one is leak3000?

 

[GanChan]

Does the Sennheiser HD590 count as vintage? I bought this 15 years ago, and they were already a refurb then. I replaced the pads a couple of years ago....
 

 

[MuZo2]

 I think most of headphones here are 30-40 years old. HD600 I guess is also 18 yrs old, but still in production.

 

[GanChan]

I see. I also have a Sony V6, but so does everybody else LOL.

 

[ruhenheiM]

  You have nice collection too, some electrets and orthos, last one is leak3000?

yes that's leak 3000.but I already sold it haha

 

[harrinj]

It looks like you replaced the cord on your Pioneer SE-700. Did yours have shorts all over in it as well? I have to keep twisting mine in certain spots to get the sound back in one or the other ear or one goes half volume etc and not move at all, it is very irritating but they are so wonderful sounding once working normal. 

 

[Tinkerer]

Not him but I did a total rewire and removable cable mod to the ones I used to own because of those same problems. They're very simple to take apart, but you need double sided tape to get the outer metal rings back on when you reassemble it. Two of the exposed screws also let you adjust the diaphragm tension if you need to.

 

[harrinj]

Not him but I did a total rewire and removable cable mod to the ones I used to own because of those same problems. They're very simple to take apart, but you need double sided tape to get the outer metal rings back on when you reassemble it. Two of the exposed screws also let you adjust the diaphragm tension if you need to.

Yeah I'm going to have to do the same. May I ask what wire did you use, also did you sleeve it like the original and what did you use if so? I'd like it to be original but obviusly ya cant fix the shorts oh what brand stereo jack did you use?

 

[Tinkerer]

I think I used 24 gauge copper in the headband, and I salvaged the sleeving from a pristine section of the main cord for it. Then the female jack I used was a small metal-cased 3.5mm that fit into the narrow cup with minimal alteration and matched the existing accents. The round bulge around the strain relief is just about the perfect size for it, but needs to be widened just a hair. That let anyone use any 3.5mm terminated cord for the cord on it. Get a wire short? Chuck the wire and plug in a new one. No muss. No fuss.
 
The one main word of caution I'd give when taking them apart is to be careful not to damage the sponges that put tension on the center of the diaphragm, and try to leave them stuck to the diaphragm instead of the cup if you can. You can also solder to the wires going under the tension screws instead of taking them off to get at the solder pads if you don't want to fool with adjusting that after you reassemble the headphones. If I had to do it again, I'd probably use a mini 4pin XLR or 3 ring stereo jack so I could run them balanced if I wanted, though that takes away the ease of swapping out cables.

 

[EtS13]

Anyone got any info on these, picked them up for 20 bucks (aus) at a market.

Closest thing I can find are the KC 25 from Koss, no direct info.

Hello,
I need to find replacement cushions for my kc-180. Do you have any suggestion? Could you please take a picture of the pads? how are they attached to the cups?
Thank you.

 

[atomicthumbs]

 
Rebranded Elega DR-232CHs, freshly identified.