[eleathar]

Just to say that my Asgard drives the Senn Hd 700 really well! I don't know if due to misinformation or because of the Asgard but I cannot hear none of those ear bleeding trebles many talk about.
I only hear a warm, clean sound that doesn't make me regret my Hd 598 at all!
And volume knob never goes past 10 o'clock

 

[Defiant00]

Quote:

Is the preamp outs on the Lyr variable or just a pass through signal?

 
It is affected by the volume control if that's what you're asking.
 
As always this is to the best of my knowledge; I'm sure someone else will chime in if I'm mistaken.

 

[Mediahound]

Quote:

 
 
This is what I use: 
 
http://www.amazon.com/Woods-13568-Wireless-Control-3-Outlet/dp/B001Q9EFUU/ref=sr_1_17?ie=UTF8&qid=1352957242&sr=8-17&keywords=wireless+outlet
 
I plug my powered monitors into one of these and keep the remote nearby while headphone-listening -- very handy.

 
Is it bad to just cut the power to amps while they are powered on though?

 

[IEMCrazy]

Quote:

 
Is it bad to just cut the power to amps while they are powered on though?

 
Technically no.  I generally avoid doing that in most cases out of sheer paranoia.  However that's all the power switch really does, too, is just cuts the power.  And in speaker rigs it's entirely common to leave all devices switched "on" and turn them all on with a power center/filter/conditioner/isolator's main switch.

 

[grokit]

Is the preamp outs on the Lyr variable or just a pass through signal?

It is affected by the volume control if that's what you're asking.

As always this is to the best of my knowledge; I'm sure someone else will chime in if I'm mistaken.

The Lyr preamp function is excellent, along with its ability to drive the K701. To me these are the two best uses for this amp.

 

[Mediahound]

Quote:

The Lyr preamp function is excellent, along with its ability to drive the K701. To me these are the two best uses for this amp.

I'm looking forward to it. Placed my order for the Lyr and Bifrost yesterday. 

 

[barbz]

Why not split the signal at your dac before the lyr?

That way you only turn the lyr on when you want head phones; or you turn on your active speakers\amp.... At least it gets around the not muting business.

Paul

 

[Mediahound]

Quote:

Why not split the signal at your dac before the lyr?
That way you only turn the lyr on when you want head phones; or you turn on your active speakers\amp.... At least it gets around the not muting business.
Paul

That's an option but it doesn't solve the issue of me wanting no signal going to the speakers when using headphones so I would still have to turn off the speakers in that scenario. Also, controlling the volume on the speakers rather than on the Lyr is a lot less convenient. 

 

[barbz]

Quote:

That's an option but it doesn't solve the issue of me wanting no signal going to the speakers when using headphones so I would still have to turn off the speakers in that scenario. Also, controlling the volume on the speakers rather than on the Lyr is a lot less convenient. 

True..... I have a desktop amp for my passive speakers so it works perfectly in my case.
 
Does the manufacturer of your speakers have a remote controller?

 

[Mediahound]

Quote:

True..... I have a desktop amp for my passive speakers so it works perfectly in my case.
 
Does the manufacturer of your speakers have a remote controller?

It does but the issue is the subwoofer does not, so while I could easily just turn the speakers off when I want to listen to headphones, the subwoofer would still sound. I guess my solution for now will be to add power cut off remote control to the subwoofer. 
 
It would be nice if the Lyr did not output audio when headphones are plugged in though. My subwoofer goes to auto-sleep after 15 mins of no sound. 

 

[barbz]

Depending on the board/component layout Schiit could replace the headphone jack with a switching one so that it mutes the line out's when the headphones are plugged in; although this may not appeal to some as it adds more components inline.
 
My now replaced with a LYR, Maverick audio A1 does this but I has problems where the connector doesn't snap back correctly when the Hp's are unplugged which causes me to loose my left channel at times on the lineout..
 
This is the part I am reffering to http://modulusamplification.com/14-JACK-SOCKET-SWITCHING-STEREO-P643388.aspx I know there are also sealed versions but I cant find an image/link.
 
Paul

 

[IEMCrazy]

Quote:

That's an option but it doesn't solve the issue of me wanting no signal going to the speakers when using headphones so I would still have to turn off the speakers in that scenario. Also, controlling the volume on the speakers rather than on the Lyr is a lot less convenient. 

 
And you wouldn't get to play with tube rolling with your speakers!

 

[jhelsas]

Do anyone know if there is much diference between the bifrost usb input and something like V-link II -> bifrost (spdif) ?
 
If there isn't much of a diference, or if the V-link is better, I would be more inclined to get a non-usb bifrost for the price because the main computer it would be attached to alread have a spdif output (i belive it's a toslink), and would buy either an expansion card in the future or something like a V-link or V-link 192 (or any other equivalent option).

 

[IEMCrazy]

Quote:

Do anyone know if there is much diference between the bifrost usb input and something like V-link II -> bifrost (spdif) ?
 
If there isn't much of a diference, or if the V-link is better, I would be more inclined to get a non-usb bifrost for the price because the main computer it would be attached to alread have a spdif output (i belive it's a toslink), and would buy either an expansion card in the future or something like a V-link or V-link 192 (or any other equivalent option).

 
Is it a laptop, or a desktop?  If it's a desktop, I'd save the $100 on Bifrost USB and just get a genuine soundcard with good digital output for probably half that money.  To me the only value to USB either natively or via a V-link is if you're stuck on a laptop and are reliant on USB-only.  Converting USB to S/PDIF out of a desktop seems remarkably silly since it takes 5 minutes and half the money to throw in a real soundcard that's S/PDIF from the start!

 

[jhelsas]

Quote:

 
Is it a laptop, or a desktop?  If it's a desktop, I'd save the $100 on Bifrost USB and just get a genuine soundcard with good digital output for probably half that money.  To me the only value to USB either natively or via a V-link is if you're stuck on a laptop and are reliant on USB-only.  Converting USB to S/PDIF out of a desktop seems remarkably silly since it takes 5 minutes and half the money to throw in a real soundcard that's S/PDIF from the start!

So, my situation is the following
 
I have desktop with a xonar STX soundcard, and I'm planning to chage it due to driver problems (both in windows and on linux, but mainly on linux). Although the STX have an spdif output, my motherboard (Asus Crosshair IV formula) also have, so my plan was to get the bifrost or similar without usb because of the spdif output.
 
My option would be either to keep a external dac with usb input or to get an dac with just spdif input + a converter of some kind. I think it's kind dum to keep the stx just for it's spdif output since it's would be a waste of all the other resources it have, even though they are not "the best", they make me very happy when they are not causing me driver problems. Besides, I already have a friend who want to buy them as soon as I put them for sale.
 
I'll think about your sugestion as for a simple soundcard just to use for spdif, although I'm not so sure because of the driver problems .....
 
You would recomend something like what? Xonar DX?