[sfo1972]

 

The Lyr2 drives the LCD3s superbly! I am not sure why someone would say that the Lyr/Lyr2 will not do a good job with those HPs; I disagree with that opinion and can tell you that I have never looked back. Every time I toy with the idea of buying new HPs, like the HD800s, or a Hifi man just to see if the grass is greener on the other side, I end up changing my mind and getting more tubes for the Lyr2 to experience different sound signatures.

Thanks for the feedback guys - I picked up the LCD-3's today. A totally different ball of wax, but clearly my DAC is too wimpy. Things sound veiled ATM. So two weeks ago I'm driving my HE-500's with JAN Sylvanias - till I buy the CCa's and now I have the LCD-3's and tomorrow will receive the Uber - all thanks to the CCa's. Yes I blame them. An expensive little journey for just wanting to get a better set of tubes eh? I'm a little worried about the Uber upgrade. I auditioned the LCD-3's at B&H through some $1900 DAC and heard Jesus. I'm praying I don't have to whip out more $$ for these cans to shine.

Ok hoss...not sure if you picked up the Modi2 with Uber upgrade. Its the way to go for an amazing value on the cheap, the setup would go: Source > Modi2+Uber > Lyr/Lyr2 > LCD3s...the result: sublime!
 
I have a buddy of mine, who is a discriminating audiophile off course, that absolutely loves the modi2+uber. I personally use the Oppo-HA1 DAC with my Lyr2, I know it's like a sledge hammer to drive a thumbtack, but I absolutely love the sound that comes out of the LCD3s in my setup.
 
Hope you find yours buddy.
 
Cheers

 

[audiophilegamer]

Anyone know if there are any other 'easy to find' tubes that out perform the Telefunken E88CCs?

 

[reddog]

HG's? I'm hoping SOME company buys the records from Telefunken, etc-on HOW to make new tubes properly. I saw that "Telefunken" were being made again. Presumably, if they use the same processes and materials-I wonder if they will sound good? The Gold Lions have been described as being Good-for new tubes. How about EXCELLENT? Otherwise our hobby has a finite end date. Presumably the trade secrets of old could be legally transferred? "One drop of Antimony, 2 drops of Magnesium, Eye of Newt.." 

A few months ago, I tried the current production Telefunken TK's, and after over 250 hours of burn time, they are not bad. They do not compare at all to the nos Telefunken E88CC platinum tubes. The NOS Telefunken tubes are like a exquisite bottle of 50 year old single malt scotch. And the Telefunken TK's are a very nice blended scotch. The Telefunken TK's seem to tighten the bass and improve the quality of bass. The mids are smoothed out and seemed more textured, revealing. The highs seem a touch smoother and more revealing. The soundstage is wider and holographic, compared to the stock tubes. I use them, for watching tv and playing fallout 3. Ahough I did use them, with my DT 880's, to listen to some Zepplin and old Yes and was very happy with the result. But why buy currently produced tubes, when one can get some good nos tubes for half the price. When it comes to tube rolling I feel like I have another audiophile monkey on my back, but this one eats only tubes lol. I think I shall go listen to " shoot the monkey" lol

 

[Chuckjones242]

 
Ok hoss...not sure if you picked up the Modi2 with Uber upgrade. Its the way to go for an amazing value on the cheap, the setup would go: Source > Modi2+Uber > Lyr/Lyr2 > LCD3s...the result: sublime!
 
Hope you find yours buddy.
 
Cheers

 
The Bitfrost Uber - sans the USB since I'm using my X5 as the source through a coax - my amp sits on the end table next to my bed so I can chill out after a long day and I find getting a laptop (or even my Surface) out to be an utter pain in the a**.  I'm getting over the sticker shock already and am pumped up.  I figure if this doesn't work to my liking I'll have to sell another lens to B&H for an Antelope Zodiac http://www.antelopeaudio.com/en/products/zodiac-dac which is how I auditioned my LCD-3's - or an or Oppo HA-1 which I'd been eyeing ironically before you mentioned it.  BTW, sorry for going off topic on this thread guys, but I trust your advice and believe it or not this is all related to my Siemen's CCa experimentation ))  I'm sure a lot of Lyr owners have been wondering about powering LCD-3's and in the end I'll be thrilled to share my tube experiences with them.
 
SFO - when you use a pre-amp with the Lyr, how much volume do you typically set with the pre-amp (like the Oppo or Antelope) when feeding the Lyr?  No experience with this arrangement.
 
Rob.

 

[rb2013]

Thanks Rob,
You've described what I've been trying to explain to a skeptical friend.
Now if you can equate it with trams conductance, mu, and linearity in an easy way I'd appreciate it!
The 74 Reflektor Silver Shield SWGP have smoothness in abundance and great soundstage
 

Those are just tube output statistics and can tell you nothing about how a tube sounds, other then if it's a bad tube.  Why do they all sound different?  Well a great question and like many things in audio no 'engineering' answer.  But look at the sound of USB interfaces for example - digital bits are digital bits - but I have tried 5-6 and they all sound different.  Some better by a large measure.  When CD players first arrived folks said that one was exactly the same as another - as they bench tested the same.  Until a new form of distortion or noise was discovered - 'jitter', and here we are 30 yrs later with all kinds of engineering remedies to fix the many forms of jitter and phase noise.
 
As for the new production tubes - not one I have heard (and that's pretty much all of them) come close to even a middling vintage version.  Fortunately these were made in  large quantities and widely used in the '50s', 60's and 70's - so little cause to worry about them running out.  Of course the very best will be in short supply, and shorter in the future, so will command higher prices.
 
Amazing how, even today, many of the very best HP amps are using tubes!  Look at Woo Audio, Manley Labs, Cavalli, & HiFiman, etc...  In fact, the new statement amp from Dr Fang at Hifiman the EF1000 uses the 6922 as the pre-amp tube! 
 
But in other audio companies as well, like Acoustic Research, Conrad Johnson, McIntosh, Jadis, etc..all have their SOTA equipment based on tubes.
 
They do things that solid state has a very hard time replicating.
 
The Lyr/Lyr2 amps are especially sensitive to tube changes, and since the output device is uniform across all units (class A Mosfet) - makes a great test bed.  Where results can be replicated easily.

 

[rb2013]

   
Very nicely put, Bob.  That is one heckuva project you took on.  I'm really curious to see how you heard and interpreted the many high-end sound signatures you sampled.  Not many go to tube heaven and return to tell about it.

Thanks - the review will of course be based on my own system and personal tastes.  But I hope to make it universal enough to give folks with a different set of listening preferences some guidance.
 
Should be up by Friday.

 

[rb2013]

  Anyone know if there are any other 'easy to find' tubes that out perform the Telefunken E88CC

Other choices at reasonable cost would be the Siemens '60s (gray shields) E88CC's, Philips MiniWatts '60 SQ E188CC, Amperex '60s 7308.
 
All reasonably easy to find and you should be able to get them for under $200/pr.
 
Good luck!

 

[billerb1]

Thanks - the review will of course be based on my own system and personal tastes.  But I hope to make it universal enough to give folks with a different set of listening preferences some guidance.

Should be up by Friday.

Yes of course it'll always be a matter of personal preference and we both know we hear things a little differently and have very different rigs. But I really like the reviewing format you are going to use. Should be a lot in it for everyone no matter what their preferences are. Cudos in advance !!!

 

[rb2013]

Yes if course it'll always be a matter of personal preference and we both know we hear things a little differently and have very different rigs. But I really like the reviewing format you are going to use. Should be a lot in it for everyone no matter what their preferences are. Cudos in advance !!!

Thanks bro'!

 

[reddog]

Other choices at reasonable cost would be the Siemens '60s (gray shields) E88CC's, Philips MiniWatts '60 SQ E188CC, Amperex '60s 7308.

All reasonably easy to find and you should be able to get them for under $200/pr.

Good luck!

Cool will add those tubes to my list. Once I get the Yggdrasil, I will start to get more nos tubes. I am done with currently produced tubes. Now is the time to get NOS tubes. Have a great day Bob.

 

[billerb1]

Other choices at reasonable cost would be the Siemens '60s (gray shields) E88CC's, Philips MiniWatts '60 SQ E188CC, Amperex '60s 7308.
 
All reasonably easy to find and you should be able to get them for under $200/pr.
 
Good luck!

 


Reddog,
I've bought numerous pairs of 60's Miniwatts Hollands (the Valvo Hollands are the same tubes) both E188CC and E88CC. If you are patient and do your homework (and just get a little bit lucky!) you should be able to get NOS or near NOS E88CC pairs for under $100 and E188CC pairs for certainly under $175. Especially if you check out Ebay Europe. Got my last pair of 1965 E188CC Philips Miniwatts for something like $70 in an auction and they are perfect for what I listen for. Just got to stay on it !!!
Also I see and have purchased American made Amperex 7308 pairs, NOS, in the neighborhood of $125 to $150. Great, wide-open, very revealing tubes with a wonderfully wide soundstage.

 

[rb2013]

Cool will add those tubes to my list. Once I get the Yggdrasil, I will start to get more nos tubes. I am done with currently produced tubes. Now is the time to get NOS tubes. Have a great day Bob.

I went down the new production road for a long time.  My Conrad Johnson 16LS pre-amp took 6 6922's - so to find 6 matched vintage tubes was near impossible.  So for folks with that kind of equipment new production is virtually the only route.  The sota CJ ART took 10!

 

[stryker7314]

Something strange just happened with my Schiit Lyr 2 and I would like to get yall's take on it. I am using Mullard CV4109 tubes ( http://www.tubemonger.com/Mullard_MINT_NOS_1967_MIL_7308_CV4109_E188CC_MPS_p/2000m.htm ) . The previous owner had 50 hours on these tubes.
 
I turned the Lyr on. 
My left channel did not output sound while the right did, even after the 20 second wait.
I looked at my left channel tube and the red glowing area was not glowing.
I flipped it on and off a few times and the tube didn't light up, I thought the tube was dead.
I removed both tubes and swapped their positions. 
I turn it on and the tube that was working before that is now in the left socket sparks within the tube. It didn't faze the tube because it stayed on and working. 
The tube that was off before was now lit in the right channel and working (outputting sound like normal).
I leave it on and the amp and sound is operating fine like before...
 
I have no idea what the hell just happened.
 
Should I be worried?
 
I don't want the amp to kill my tubes.

 

[rb2013]

  Something strange just happened with my Schiit Lyr 2 and I would like to get yall's take on it. I am using Mullard CV4109 tubes ( http://www.tubemonger.com/Mullard_MINT_NOS_1967_MIL_7308_CV4109_E188CC_MPS_p/2000m.htm ) . The previous owner had 50 hours on these tubes.
 
I turned the Lyr on. 
My left channel did not output sound while the right did, even after the 20 second wait.
I looked at my left channel tube and the red glowing area was not glowing.
I flipped it on and off a few times and the tube didn't light up, I thought the tube was dead.
I removed both tubes and swapped their positions. 
I turn it on and the tube that was working before that is now in the left socket sparks within the tube. It didn't faze the tube because it stayed on and working. 
The tube that was off before was now lit in the right channel and working (outputting sound like normal).
I leave it on and the amp and sound is operating fine like before...
 
I have no idea what the hell just happened.
 
Should I be worried?
 
I don't want the amp to kill my tubes.

Two things - never turn your amp off then on again right away.  You need to let the caps drain on turn off for at least 5 mins, if not you may get too much of a power on surge and a very loud pop.  It's also hard on the tubes. 
Second - you may have a bad socket saver or need to clean the pins.  If nickel or steel - DeoxiT red is great for a soak for a few days -then clean off with a brush, and apply the Gold treatment.  For gold pins pure iso alcohol to clean then Gold for treatment.

 

[stryker7314]

 
Two things - never turn your amp off then on again right away.  You need to let the caps drain on turn off for at least 5 mins, if not you may get too much of a power on surge and a very loud pop.  It's also hard on the tubes. 
Second - you may have a bad socket saver or need to clean the pins.  If nickel or steel - DeoxiT red is great for a soak for a few days -then clean off with a brush, and apply the Gold treatment.  For gold pins pure iso alcohol to clean then Gold for treatment.

Good to know, though I didn't wait 5 mins for the caps to drain, I did wait for a good moment before turning it back on. But I'm going to assume that was the reason for the sparks.
 
Maybe it was a bad seating and a bad connection, but I hadn't moved the tubes in a few weeks. and they we're working just fine before. So strange.