Schiit Happened: The Story of the World's Most Improbable Start-Up
Nov 16, 2016 at 11:54 PM Post #14,086 of 148,975
Yes, we will be at Axpona, as well as the New York CanJam in 2017. Time to get out of the house some more (or at least away from the West Coast.)

canjam singapore?
 
Nov 16, 2016 at 11:59 PM Post #14,087 of 148,975
canjam singapore?


I'm sure our distributor will be there, but I'm afraid I won't be. The reality is that neither Mike nor I are big on traveling, nor should we be (it's better for product development that we're homebodies.) I expect you'll see me in NY and Chicago, at least some of the time, FWIW.
 
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Nov 17, 2016 at 8:31 AM Post #14,088 of 148,975
When Saga is in passive mode, can the inputs and outputs be used in reversed, like the SYS? If so, would its volume have to be left maxed out, like the SYS?
 
Nov 17, 2016 at 1:12 PM Post #14,090 of 148,975
   
1. Of course.
2. Yes, the tube is active all the time. As I posted before, if you don't want it, just leave it out. Or wait for octal LISST.

 
I'd like to run the Saga passive-only, without a tube, as well. What happens if I accidentally switch from passive to tube when the tube isn't inserted? Is there some kind of safety mechanism that triggers if that happens?
 
Nov 17, 2016 at 1:15 PM Post #14,091 of 148,975
   
I'd like to run the Saga passive-only, without a tube, as well. What happens if I accidentally switch from passive to tube when the tube isn't inserted? Is there some kind of safety mechanism that triggers if that happens?


Nothing happens. No output.
 
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Nov 17, 2016 at 1:16 PM Post #14,092 of 148,975
Nov 18, 2016 at 11:56 AM Post #14,098 of 148,975
  I know some of you have ordered Saga's. Have they Made their way into the wild yet? 

Posted yesterday elsewhere:
 
Very initial Saga impressions (not much meat here yet, though and no comparison yet):
 
  1. Both Tube and Passive operation sound lovely. Might slightly prefer tube operation but part of that is probably the amplitude bump when switching to tubes. Will have to spend several hours listening to just one then the other to really gain a strong impression.
  2. Sound stage is larger when using the tube buffer.
  3. Have already misplaced the remote several times. It is black and kind of vanishes into the woodwork once I put it down. Bigger would be better in this case. But it works fine.
  4. The clicking during volume changing does drive me a little nuts, especially when I am making a small change during a quiet passage.
  5. Hard to tear myself away--very engaging. But I have to go pick up the kids, so...
 
And in conversation with my brother:
 
When using it in tube mode, it has a larger, airy sound stage compared to the Sys or direct from the BAD [Berkeley Audio Design Gen 1] DAC.  But the application of the tube is otherwise modest--it doesn't sound tubby or overly warm at all--just a very small goose along with the larger sound stage.  It still sounds wonderfully detailed and responsive.  (However, the Infinity speakers I have aren't as resolving as your Sonus Fabers, so that only goes so far.)
 
The most annoying thing is the relay-based volume control.  It is great at channel matching, that's true.  But it clicks repeatedly every time you adjust the volume (loudly enough to hear across the room), which is annoying.  But once you have settled on a good listening volume, the advantage of the relay-based volume does shine.  It is very clear at all volume levels and the channel matching is impressive, even at low volumes.  If only there was a way to dampen the clicks when changing the volume.  Sigh...
 
----
 
All very preliminary, as I've only had it hooked up since last night...
 
I was thinking this morning that there could be two solutions to the small (misplace-able) remote issue:
 
  1. To offer a larger remote for purchase, as has been discussed here
  2. To offer a larger body (say, out of molded plastic) that the existing remote could snap into.  The one disadvantage of this is that it is conventional to make a larger remote be longer with the buttons located farther back on the remote, whereas in this case you'd probably want the IR port on the front of the credit card remote right at the front of the snap in body (thereby placing the buttons farther forward).  But the snap-in body wouldn't need to be significantly longer--just have more heft/presence.
 

 
Nov 18, 2016 at 12:00 PM Post #14,099 of 148,975
A third solution to make the remote easier to find after putting it down, a large bright white LED!
 

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