Any particular audible differences between gen 5 and unison in your opinion?I’ve previously had 2x Gumby A2 (both with Gen5 usb) and now have a Gumby A1 that was recently upgraded from Gen2 usb to Unison usb
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Schiit Gungnir DAC
- Thread starter WarriorAnt
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bagwell359
Headphoneus Supremus
Just go above a bit, quite a bit on that.Any particular audible differences between gen 5 and unison in your opinion?
artur9
Headphoneus Supremus
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I documented my experience on this thread with my OG Gumby. Take about a week to ten days before I stopped hearing changes.Hey folks, I picked up a new Gungnir Multibit latest spec.
I'm sure this question has been done to death sorry but, I haven't actually been able to find many answers other than- wait for ages and leave it on for ages. Anyone got an idea of how long these DACs take to run in, burn in etc?
IIRC, there was a period where it sound pretty lackluster and then all the multibit happiness started coming through.
timmybob
New Head-Fier
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I had a similar experience. And now I never turn it off! Always sounds different from cold...I documented my experience on this thread with my OG Gumby. Take about a week to ten days before I stopped hearing changes.
IIRC, there was a period where it sound pretty lackluster and then all the multibit happiness started coming through.
Still haven’t gotten any further with the upgrade board.
With the Primaluna Prologue 4 (I also purchased a prologue five as well.. KT-88).
Everything from satellite radio to cd to Amazon Music assaulting way too good I’m not gonna mess with it!!.
Swapped out the Prima EL34 for GL KT77, but that’s it.
It’s a refined EL-34.
Both power tubes sound pretty damn amazing IMHO.
Briefly tried a quad of low hour KT-120’s in the 4.
Not my cup of tea.
Have not listened to the KT88’s too much yet, but they seem well balanced from what I briefly heard.
The amp was voiced with them.
I think my set up really benefits from the sealed bass box woofers in both pairs of speakers.
With the Primaluna Prologue 4 (I also purchased a prologue five as well.. KT-88).
Everything from satellite radio to cd to Amazon Music assaulting way too good I’m not gonna mess with it!!.
Swapped out the Prima EL34 for GL KT77, but that’s it.
It’s a refined EL-34.
Both power tubes sound pretty damn amazing IMHO.
Briefly tried a quad of low hour KT-120’s in the 4.
Not my cup of tea.
Have not listened to the KT88’s too much yet, but they seem well balanced from what I briefly heard.
The amp was voiced with them.
I think my set up really benefits from the sealed bass box woofers in both pairs of speakers.
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bagwell359
Headphoneus Supremus
4 days on does it for me. Only goes off when there are nasty electrical storms nearby or power failures.Hey folks, I picked up a new Gungnir Multibit latest spec.
I'm sure this question has been done to death sorry but, I haven't actually been able to find many answers other than- wait for ages and leave it on for ages. Anyone got an idea of how long these DACs take to run in, burn in etc? And potential changes in sound there might be? I'm a bit underwhelmed after about 20 hours on, although I do think it is sounding better than first switch on. I know I should be patient and wait for... err, a week? Or.... something but, yeah. Patience has never been my strong suit. Also the whole- leaving the DAC on 24/7 debate is a thing. I calculated it would cost me £4.5 per month to run it 24/7. I'd rather not waste energy or money at all if I don't have to but... that is just about acceptable as a £ cost. I'm coming from a Chord Mojo 2 so not apples to apples, but I already owned a Qutest in the past so wanted to try something different.
That’s about $66 per year (20 watt).
I started figuring that out a while back with the BF2.
I was stubborn about leaving it on, but it really only takes about a half hour to be fine at the most.
Not like it sucks when it’s cold.
The Gunigar and BF1 MB aren’t that way.
I think I will just start looking at my listening sessions and try to time it so you turned it on the required warm up time.
I think part of the reason is I need to fully break it in, so I would leave it on 24 seven a couple weeks.
Then do some experimenting for the required warm up time.
My Gungnir MB and BF1 MB Wasn’t more than a couple hours, but I would turn it on in the morning if I was going to listen to it in the evening, for example.
Especially if it’s winter and you have the heat turned down when you’re not at home.
If you think about it, it’s kind of a crappy deal they need to be warmed up like that, but I can’t think of any other way getting around it .
The TDA NOS Dacs like the Project DAC BOX S FL, and the Muse were exactly the same deal, about a hour or 2.
They just seem to design these chips to operate the best when they were fully warmed up, which make sense.
You certainly wouldn’t want it the opposite.
It’s too bad they can’t, for example, ramp up the voltage to the chips to warm them up quicker, some sort of warm up stage.
Then back off.
I know the MuseNOS TDAx 4 could take a surprisingly wide range of voltage 12 volts stock
8 ‘-9 volts ideal.
It certainly warmed up very quickly with 12 volts.
Same way with the NOS Project DAC ( Fl vs S FL)
The earlier version used a different voltage in the later versions.
I can’t remember I’ll have to do a little research, but I think the earlier versions use less voltage than the later versions.
I started figuring that out a while back with the BF2.
I was stubborn about leaving it on, but it really only takes about a half hour to be fine at the most.
Not like it sucks when it’s cold.
The Gunigar and BF1 MB aren’t that way.
I think I will just start looking at my listening sessions and try to time it so you turned it on the required warm up time.
I think part of the reason is I need to fully break it in, so I would leave it on 24 seven a couple weeks.
Then do some experimenting for the required warm up time.
My Gungnir MB and BF1 MB Wasn’t more than a couple hours, but I would turn it on in the morning if I was going to listen to it in the evening, for example.
Especially if it’s winter and you have the heat turned down when you’re not at home.
If you think about it, it’s kind of a crappy deal they need to be warmed up like that, but I can’t think of any other way getting around it .
The TDA NOS Dacs like the Project DAC BOX S FL, and the Muse were exactly the same deal, about a hour or 2.
They just seem to design these chips to operate the best when they were fully warmed up, which make sense.
You certainly wouldn’t want it the opposite.
It’s too bad they can’t, for example, ramp up the voltage to the chips to warm them up quicker, some sort of warm up stage.
Then back off.
I know the MuseNOS TDAx 4 could take a surprisingly wide range of voltage 12 volts stock
8 ‘-9 volts ideal.
It certainly warmed up very quickly with 12 volts.
Same way with the NOS Project DAC ( Fl vs S FL)
The earlier version used a different voltage in the later versions.
I can’t remember I’ll have to do a little research, but I think the earlier versions use less voltage than the later versions.
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But frankly after going all tube, it’s not a huge deal, you can enjoy even the warm up.
Primaluna reminds me of Schiit
Huge sound value per $ (or pound, etc) invested.
Primaluna reminds me of Schiit
Huge sound value per $ (or pound, etc) invested.
bagwell359
Headphoneus Supremus
I got over my audio nervosa for the most part by 1995, but my headphone era has proven a couple of things the ABX crowd would gag on.
1. HFM stock cables are so bad sonically that even a basic DIY or a lower priced unit from a 3rd party kills them - and yes I've blind A/B'd them.
2. The Rag 1 needs maybe :45 minutes to get fully warmed, but on my own I found out that my Gumby 1 MB does need more time. Its less focused (not quite confused) about the boundaries of instruments, and has a subtle gray haze thing going on if its on for just 2, 6, or 24 hours. It then slightly changes - and somewhere before 96 hours but after 80, it stops changing. cheap caps that take a long time to squeeze out H2O or just O2? whatever. It has been noted by quite a few, so the specter of the invisible fabric of the Emperor does become a thing for the ABX'ers to attack with.
3. HFM stock round can pads also suck.
1. HFM stock cables are so bad sonically that even a basic DIY or a lower priced unit from a 3rd party kills them - and yes I've blind A/B'd them.
2. The Rag 1 needs maybe :45 minutes to get fully warmed, but on my own I found out that my Gumby 1 MB does need more time. Its less focused (not quite confused) about the boundaries of instruments, and has a subtle gray haze thing going on if its on for just 2, 6, or 24 hours. It then slightly changes - and somewhere before 96 hours but after 80, it stops changing. cheap caps that take a long time to squeeze out H2O or just O2? whatever. It has been noted by quite a few, so the specter of the invisible fabric of the Emperor does become a thing for the ABX'ers to attack with.
3. HFM stock round can pads also suck.
I have to admit though, 99% I usually leave them on.
The BF2 OG defiantly gets warmer then the Gumby.
I did a bit of experimenting the last week it’s about 6-7 hours for it to sound like it does when it’s simply left on.
I thinks it’s more about the DA chip vs caps/ resistors.
Schiit uses pretty high quality supporting components. Is
The BF2 OG defiantly gets warmer then the Gumby.
I did a bit of experimenting the last week it’s about 6-7 hours for it to sound like it does when it’s simply left on.
I thinks it’s more about the DA chip vs caps/ resistors.
Schiit uses pretty high quality supporting components. Is
macdonjh
Headphoneus Supremus
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Bifrost 2 is showing off?I have to admit though, 99% I usually leave them on.
The BF2 OG defiantly gets warmer then the Gumby.
I did a bit of experimenting the last week it’s about 6-7 hours for it to sound like it does when it’s simply left on.
I thinks it’s more about the DA chip vs caps/ resistors.
Schiit uses pretty high quality supporting components. Is
Funny typo/ spell checker error...
Interesting. My A1 Gumby definitely gets defiantly warmer than my Bifrost 2. Also takes a little longer to warm up from a cold start than the BF.I have to admit though, 99% I usually leave them on.
The BF2 OG defiantly gets warmer then the Gumby.
I did a bit of experimenting the last week it’s about 6-7 hours for it to sound like it does when it’s simply left on.
I thinks it’s more about the DA chip vs caps/ resistors.
Schiit uses pretty high quality supporting components. Is
Siri....Bifrost 2 is showing off?
Funny typo/ spell checker error...
Sure-seems strange-it used to vary a bit depending on if it was in use or not.Interesting. My A1 Gumby definitely gets defiantly warmer than my Bifrost 2. Also takes a little longer to warm up from a cold start than the BF.
The last month or 2 seems to be warm all the time.
Still sounds fine-hard to say what's going on.
Don't get me wrong, I don't mind the longer warm-up time but, yes, my Gumby definitely runs warmer than my BF (which, of course, runs warm also), especially when in use.Sure-seems strange-it used to vary a bit depending on if it was in use or not.
The last month or 2 seems to be warm all the time.
Still sounds fine-hard to say what's going on.
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