[Mondo Caliente]

I think so many people were whining about the remote vs. knob position differences on the original Freya that Schiit listened and implemented the new, and possibly unneeded fix. I don't see an issue with the original...and the fact that the knob has to be rolled back to wherever the remote had been set is NOT a difficult thing, and you can tell where the remote level is by listening. Not so easy for some. Man. I have another far more complicated remote controlled SS preamp with the knob showing a little indicator light rolling around...great...and it has the exact issue as what's described for the Freya +...somewhat inaccurate level adjustments...overshoot, undershoot...but meh...not a big deal, although it was replaced in my rig by the amazingly good "original" Freya...

 

[Zer0.p0int.Zer0]

Did you email Schiit customer service? I have a Freya S and it doesn’t have the issues you are describing.

 

[skiroe]

I think so many people were whining about the remote vs. knob position differences on the original Freya that Schiit listened and implemented the new, and possibly unneeded fix. I don't see an issue with the original...and the fact that the knob has to be rolled back to wherever the remote had been set is NOT a difficult thing, and you can tell where the remote level is by listening. Not so easy for some. Man. I have another far more complicated remote controlled SS preamp with the knob showing a little indicator light rolling around...great...and it has the exact issue as what's described for the Freya +...somewhat inaccurate level adjustments...overshoot, undershoot...but meh...not a big deal, although it was replaced in my rig by the amazingly good "original" Freya...

straight forward on why to go for the original, thanks

 

[makarushka]

Have you received replacement? Very interested in hearing what the repair was and your thoughts on sound quality and what you perceived about the highs and mids. The very nature of tubes would seem to not impart an edgy or crystaline effect on the highs. Although anything is possible with new production tubes I suppose.

Yes, got it. Schiit support was very prompt and I had a replacement unit in two days after I placed the support email and dropped off the broken one. =

I have no idea what specifically was wrong. The new replacement unit does not exhibit the issue so far during one week of operation.

The tubes definitely make a difference, as expected, but there is something else there, as the Freya+ with the same tube complement has a subtly different sound than the old OG Freya. However, at this point that difference is not enough for me to be able to say that I like the old one more; I'd maybe venture to say the Freya+ sounds a touch cleaner still, and for some -- or many - it will be a better thing, but one way or another, we're talking about a VERY subtle difference in sonic signature, IMO. The noise floor with the tube stage never was an issue for me with the old one, even on circa-100dBw/1m efficient speakers, but the new one is simply amazing in that regard. For a preamp that has a tube or tubeS anywhere in the signal path, it is just shockingly quiet.

Whilte I agree about the remote control action being more accurate on the original Freya, the new volume control, as long as it works as intended, does not bother me. I can get precise enough with it; for me personally it's not an issue.

Of more importance, I think, is the astounding value that the Freya and Freya+ represent in the world of audio, across any market niches and price ranges. It is just a sublime sounding piece of gear -- in absolute terms; and for reasonable money, if not to say dirt cheap compared to the leagues it easily plays in. I've had all sorts of bespoke gear, and right now the Freya+ sits next to a rather high-end line stage that uses a single WE437a per channel, with massive filtered power supplies, tube recitification, extremely short signal path, etc. Dead quiet, too, and the very definition of transparency. Well the thing is that Freyas do lose a TOUCH in that transparency thing in comparison but not anywhere enough for me to say that they are a lesser preamp in any way. Nope, only more impressed with the Freya. Hat's off to Schiit; between the Yggy and the Freyas that I own, I am a huge fan.

Now when there is a fat headphone/speaker switch on the front panel of some multibit DAC/headphone amp combo like Jotunheim 3+ or some such, I'll get that to use for my work... And will probably get an Aegir on a general principle just to see how it does against several custom SETs with my Altecs and Tannoys...

 

[Mondo Caliente]

I've ordered an Aegir just to compare it to my current fave, a Dennis Had SEP, and to see what "brand chemistry" exists between a Freya and an Aegir (although I actually don't care about that). I think one sure thing is the Aegir won't reveal dust just like the Freya...seriously...the most dustless components, at least in the common silver finish, I own. And screws...the "original" Freya has screws, the new one has "mystery construction"...what could that be? Adhesive? Secret clamping? Super magnets? Anybody try to pry one open yet? (that would likely void the warranty but...still....) I need to know the secret, and besides, I always open things I just bought as stuff can rattle around in shipping...I found an unsoldered important cap once in a new tube amp years ago...luckily I can solder.

 

[MrTrickle]

Here is some of the best info I know of. My favorite year is 1963 on these tubes. I do not just re-flow the solder on the pins, I remove it, add liquid flux, and then a high grade of solder with some silver content. Other Russian tubes I know of, Fotons, folks were saying they sounded great after 100 hours of burn in. I doubted this, replaced the solder and after an hour or two of burn in they were quite good. Typically the Melz 1578 will bring $90 to $120 on Ebay with good reason. I know of at least two gentlemen who run four of them in the Freya with amazing results. Generally folks send me the tubes and I redo the solder just to help out.

@Paladin79, I’ve got a pair of these Melz tubes that I acquired from eBay from a seller in Ukraine this summer after acquiring the Freya+ (and probably after some of your posts in this thread). What can I say? I went on a 6SN7 binge. Anyway, they look absolutely identical to the example on the left and the photos @skiroe posted. When I put them in it was just bad popping and static, which I can only assume is due to the known issues with old solder.

I’ve got a very basic Radio Shack soldering iron and have tinkered around with it doing very minor repairs on an old Marantz receiver that’s still going strong out in the garage. But I really don’t have any skill at all. I’ve seen some posts around the web that suggest the issue can be resolved just by heating the pins up briefly to reflow the solder. Your method seems much more sound. Do you think I should attempt to reflow the solder in the pins given this?

 

[Paladin79]

@Paladin79, I’ve got a pair of these Melz tubes that I acquired from eBay from a seller in Ukraine this summer after acquiring the Freya+ (and probably after some of your posts in this thread). What can I say? I went on a 6SN7 binge. Anyway, they look absolutely identical to the example on the left and the photos @skiroe posted. When I put them in it was just bad popping and static, which I can only assume is due to the known issues with old solder.

I’ve got a very basic Radio Shack soldering iron and have tinkered around with it doing very minor repairs on an old Marantz receiver that’s still going strong out in the garage. But I really don’t have any skill at all. I’ve seen some posts around the web that suggest the issue can be resolved just by heating the pins up briefly to reflow the solder. Your method seems much more sound. Do you think I should attempt to reflow the solder in the pins given this?

Please do not take offense but are you absolutely certain you got the tubes aligned in the sockets properly when you plugged them in? I would double check that and try one more time but if that does not help, I would thoroughly test the tubes and re-solder the tubes for you at no charge. You can PM me if you want to take me up on this. Also if you got the 1963 version of those tubes, I may know the seller and if indeed there is an issue I would confirm this with him and I bet he would make good on a bad tube. My having tested it may give you more credence. If it is the seller I am thinking of, he even lists the tubes when they have mismatched triodes and he seems to be fairly honest.

 

[MrTrickle]

Please do not take offense but are you absolutely certain you got the tubes aligned in the sockets properly when you plugged them in? I would double check that and try one more time but if that does not help, I would thoroughly test the tubes and re-solder the tubes for you at no charge. You can PM me if you want to take me up on this. Also if you got the 1963 version of those tubes, I may know the seller and if indeed there is an issue I would confirm this with him and I bet he would make good on a bad tube. My having tested it may give you more credence. If it is the seller I am thinking of, he even lists the tubes when they have mismatched triodes and he seems to be fairly honest.

Thanks for the response, Paladin. No offense taken at all. It hadn’t really even occurred to me to try some basic electrical connection hygiene on the pins, which should’ve been the first order of business. If that fails, I’ll PM you. And I’ll go back and dig up the eBay history on them. I certainly appreciate the offer and your advice. Cheers!

 

[brad1138]

I have been using passive mode on my Freya exclusively for a few years now (I found tube mode to do little more than distort the sound). I just noticed crackling in the right channel of my system, which I tracked to the Freya. You could hear it in passive mode, but it was much louder in tube mode. I pulled the tubes and the sound went away...

It seems a bit odd failing tubes (I assume) would be audible in passive mode.

I remember reading years ago, in this thread I think, that it was OK to run the Freya w/o tubes. But then a year or so ago I read, again in this thread, that Jason said it was not ok....

Seems a waste to burn up tubes that are never used... can anyone confirm whether it is OK or not to run w/o tubes?

 

[skiroe]

I have been using passive mode on my Freya exclusively for a few years now (I found tube mode to do little more than distort the sound). I just noticed crackling in the right channel of my system, which I tracked to the Freya. You could hear it in passive mode, but it was much louder in tube mode. I pulled the tubes and the sound went away...

It seems a bit odd failing tubes (I assume) would be audible in passive mode.

I remember reading years ago, in this thread I think, that it was OK to run the Freya w/o tubes. But then a year or so ago I read, again in this thread, that Jason said it was not ok....

Seems a waste to burn up tubes that are never used... can anyone confirm whether it is OK or not to run w/o tubes?

Just spoke with Gordon the other day about this --Do not run the Freya without tubes in it. Doing that can cause premature failure of the capacitors that concern the tube function. In a Freya plus apparently one can shut off the tube mode as its been designed to do that now.

 

[brad1138]

Just spoke with Gordon the other day about this --Do not run the Freya without tubes in it. Doing that can cause premature failure of the capacitors that concern the tube function. In a Freya plus apparently one can shut off the tube mode as its been designed to do that now.

Yeah, I am looking at selling it. Going to go a different direction, being as I didn't find I liked tubes...

 

[nishan99]

Hi
I am not sure if the people here roll the tubes for speakers or headphones. I searched the thread and indeed some people are using it for headphones.

I listen to my power speakers (Adam A7x) and headphones equally and I want to add tubes into the chain but it would cost a lot to buy a tube preamp and a tube amp for my ZMF Verite headphones.

And I also in a dire need to a remote control for both use cases. So I am not sure if the Freya+ will add enough tube sound to the Verite through a THX amp, so if there are any experience using this preamp to a very clean headphones amp is much appreciated!.

My second option is to buy both the Freya+ and a tube headphone amp but that would cost A LOT and will occupy all my desk space.

 

[kumar402]

Hi
I am not sure if the people here roll the tubes for speakers or headphones. I searched the thread and indeed some people are using it for headphones.

I listen to my power speakers (Adam A7x) and headphones equally and I want to add tubes into the chain but it would cost a lot to buy a tube preamp and a tube amp for my ZMF Verite headphones.

And I also in a dire need to a remote control for both use cases. So I am not sure if the Freya+ will add enough tube sound to the Verite through a THX amp, so if there are any experience using this preamp to a very clean headphones amp is much appreciated!.

My second option is to buy both the Freya+ and a tube headphone amp but that would cost A LOT and will occupy all my desk space.

If you only need to add a bit of tube magic to your headphone then get a tube headphone amp. Get Drop ZDT jr. from used market. It works quite well with Verite Open and it uses cheap tube. When I did A/B of ZDT Jr with THX I enjoyed the ZDT more due to better mids and bigger soundstage and touch of bloom in the mid bass.
But if you need to add tube touch to your stereo and headphone with remote then nothing is cheaper then Freya + and is a significant upgrade to Freya OG

 

[CouryT]

Hi
I am not sure if the Freya+ will add enough tube sound to the Verite through a THX amp, so if there are any experience using this preamp to a very clean headphones amp is much appreciated!.

My second option is to buy both the Freya+ and a tube headphone amp but that would cost A LOT and will occupy all my desk space.

I have owned a SMSL SP200 THX AAA 888 for the last 24 hours. I also own an original Freya, which I’ve had for over a year. It hadn’t even occurred to me to run the Freya in between my DAC and the SP200 until I read your post. So I decided to give it a shot. Keep in mind that I’m no headphone cultist so my knowledge is limited; I’m also still in the try-out phase for the SP200, so I can’t really offer a definitive analysis of the changes wrought by the Freya.

Quick and dirty assessment: it did sound “tubier” with the Freya. I did find it pleasing. (I listened to some 24-bit Blue Note HD Tracks via DAP.) Was it “better” with the Freya than without? That will take some extended listening to determine. What makes for pleasing distortion vs. displeasing distortion is a question I’m not confident enough to answer. However, I did think there was some loss of definition with the Freya in exchange for that added “warmth.” Is it worth it? That’s probably up to each listener’s tastes.

However, one aspect I did not like (and couldn’t figure out how to avoid) is that the volume through the Freya was greatly attenuated. Both the Freya’s and the SP200’s volume knobs were in effect: but even after carefully cranking up both units, the sound level was weak. So I had to use the S200’s high-gain mode, which would be way too loud for my headphones without the Freya. I’m using Nighthawk headphones, which are 25 ohms and very easy to drive. With your 300-ohm Verite cans, I wonder if the problem would be worse. (Or maybe I’m doing something wrong?)

I definitely enjoy the Freya in tube mode through my speakers, so I highly recommend it as a preamp. Undecided in regard to headphones thus far.

Have you considered getting a low-cost hybrid tube amp? There are scads of them.

 

[nishan99]

I have owned a SMSL SP200 THX AAA 888 for the last 24 hours. I also own an original Freya, which I’ve had for over a year. It hadn’t even occurred to me to run the Freya in between my DAC and the SP200 until I read your post. So I decided to give it a shot. Keep in mind that I’m no headphone cultist so my knowledge is limited; I’m also still in the try-out phase for the SP200, so I can’t really offer a definitive analysis of the changes wrought by the Freya.

Quick and dirty assessment: it did sound “tubier” with the Freya. I did find it pleasing. (I listened to some 24-bit Blue Note HD Tracks via DAP.) Was it “better” with the Freya than without? That will take some extended listening to determine. What makes for pleasing distortion vs. displeasing distortion is a question I’m not confident enough to answer. However, I did think there was some loss of definition with the Freya in exchange for that added “warmth.” Is it worth it? That’s probably up to each listener’s tastes.

However, one aspect I did not like (and couldn’t figure out how to avoid) is that the volume through the Freya was greatly attenuated. Both the Freya’s and the SP200’s volume knobs were in effect: but even after carefully cranking up both units, the sound level was weak. So I had to use the S200’s high-gain mode, which would be way too loud for my headphones without the Freya. I’m using Nighthawk headphones, which are 25 ohms and very easy to drive. With your 300-ohm Verite cans, I wonder if the problem would be worse. (Or maybe I’m doing something wrong?)

I definitely enjoy the Freya in tube mode through my speakers, so I highly recommend it as a preamp. Undecided in regard to headphones thus far.

Have you considered getting a low-cost hybrid tube amp? There are scads of them.

Thanks a lot man!, I really appreciate taking the time to test that out.

But you're doing it wrong tho, you need to max the gain and max the volume knob on your THX amp and then control the volume via the Freya. Using two volume controls contributes to losing transparency and definition as you described.