Schiit Bifrost Uber Analog Upgrade
Jun 30, 2014 at 10:31 PM Post #1,036 of 1,448
  Going back to the leaving the DAC on or off question... someone said it shouldn't draw much power if you leave it on. My Bifrost runs pretty hot if I leave it on all the time. Is that typical for other people?

 
My Bifrost gets warm, but it's not hot.
 
Jun 30, 2014 at 10:43 PM Post #1,037 of 1,448
  Going back to the leaving the DAC on or off question... someone said it shouldn't draw much power if you leave it on. My Bifrost runs pretty hot if I leave it on all the time. Is that typical for other people?

Schiit specs say it draws 12 watts.  That's not nothing, but it's not that much either.  Equivalent to, say, one energy efficient CFL bulb.
 
My Bifrost stays on all the time, except for trips away from home.  It stays slightly warm.  Never hot.
 
Jul 1, 2014 at 12:14 AM Post #1,038 of 1,448
  Going back to the leaving the DAC on or off question... someone said it shouldn't draw much power if you leave it on. My Bifrost runs pretty hot if I leave it on all the time. Is that typical for other people?

Ye, my Bifrost gets pretty warm. I do turn every piece of equipment off after I'm done (but that can be a while).
 
Jul 1, 2014 at 9:53 AM Post #1,039 of 1,448
  Schiit specs say it draws 12 watts.  That's not nothing, but it's not that much either.  Equivalent to, say, one energy efficient CFL bulb.
 
My Bifrost stays on all the time, except for trips away from home.  It stays slightly warm.  Never hot.


Mine get hot when I left it on but then I have the uber model so maybe that makes a difference.
 
edit: fix typo
 
Jul 1, 2014 at 10:11 AM Post #1,040 of 1,448
  Might get hot when I left it on but then I have the uber model so maybe that makes a difference.

 
With turned off Asgard 2 on its top, my Bifrost Uber just gets slightly warm.
 
Jul 2, 2014 at 12:35 AM Post #1,043 of 1,448
I put these in the Tube Rolling thread...  Might help those with LED issues..


Installation notes on the Bifrost Uber Upgrade.


 


Fastener Removal.


 


1)  Remove all the "perimeter" fasteners first.  Top and bottom. Do not remove the fasteners in the bottom center.  They secure the PCB board to the chassis and you don't want it rattling around.


2) Next remove the 4 black fasteners in the back of the unit.  The two halves of the enclosure can be separated.


3) Now remove the center fasteners on the bottom of the chassis.  The board will slide out.


4)   ***** Be very careful of the 3 front indicator LED's they are vulnerable.


 


Reseating the LED


5) When you have swapped daughter cards and secured the top card here is how I was able to get the LED's back into their tiny holes.


Gently slide the board in and put in the bottom center, rear fastener.  This will hold the board in the correct place. Position the enclosure face down on edge.


6) Working from the side.... To seat the LED's use needle nose pliers or sturdy tweezers. The leads bend.  You can slide and center the LED's.  To seat them securely it may be necessary to "pull" them down into the holed.  The leads are pliable and gentle positioning with tweezers will not hurts them. 


7) Finish securing the PCB to the chassis before putting the enclosure together.   NOTE:  There are 2 different sizes of fasteners. (Besides the black ones in the rear)


 


There are 5 long stainless steel fasteners and 10 short stubby ones.  Use the 5 long fasteners in the bottom center holes to secure the PCB board to the enclosure.  Use the 10 short ones to fasten the case halves.
These directions were spot on. This took me less than 15 minutes, and all is perfect. Thanks.
 
Jul 2, 2014 at 8:19 AM Post #1,046 of 1,448
  Bifrost is supposed to be an ice world....What gives?

 
In fact, "In Norse mythologyBifröst or sometimes Bilröst or Bivrost, is a burning rainbow bridge that reaches between Midgard (the world) and Asgard, the realm of the gods".
 
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bifr%C3%B6st
 
And Ragnarok is even more tongue-in-cheek name, ha.
 
Jul 2, 2014 at 11:05 AM Post #1,048 of 1,448
Thinking of buying my burning rainbow bridge soon, don't know whether I'm willing to fork it up front for the USB add on or not yet, kinda worried that the mute relay will annoy my roomates if I am using optical from my PC
tongue.gif

 
Any thoughts?
 
Jul 2, 2014 at 11:13 AM Post #1,049 of 1,448
Thinking of buying my burning rainbow bridge soon, don't know whether I'm willing to fork it up front for the USB add on or not yet, kinda worried that the mute relay will annoy my roomates if I am using optical from my PC :p

Any thoughts?

Don't understand. There's a small normal click when you press the input selection button. Is that what u mean?
 
Jul 2, 2014 at 12:44 PM Post #1,050 of 1,448
I would add USB. You never know when u might want to try a different source and it just gives you more options. If you are spending this much, go the whole nine yards. I will add the USB when I buy the Gungnir
 

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