Review: ZERO 24 BIT/192KHz DAC/Headphone Amp/Pre-Amp
Aug 13, 2012 at 9:10 AM Post #9,257 of 9,388
is there nothing I can do to the circuitry of the board, i.e. add a resistance cable on the cable that connects the dac to the amp? all of my friends are looking at my going 'What, how can your amp be too powerful for a 650' So i guess they won't be of much help :frowning2:
 
looks like my options are running out D:
 
Aug 13, 2012 at 11:42 AM Post #9,259 of 9,388
maybe that's because they don't have one lol.
 
resistance cables.. I don't know. Just a random thought, thinking of something like an 'interconnect' but with a resistor/resistance in the cable.
 
how about reducing the gain of the amp? is it possible?
 
Oct 3, 2012 at 5:50 PM Post #9,261 of 9,388
Bought an Zero 09 with usb for about a moth ago..
 
 
I got pop sounds after some time (10 hours), headset was then Sennheiser Hd 497. ( OPA 627 dual )
 
Now i bought genuine LT1361, ( single). Plugged it in, and the sound was great for about 1 hour, and now i got popping sounds all time listening to music.. Now my headset is upgraded to Bowers & Wilkins P5.
 
 
I dont know what to to with this.. I have tried optical as source too, but it is just the same popping sounds.
 
 
Does someone know? :/
 
Oct 26, 2012 at 12:11 PM Post #9,265 of 9,388
Same problem with click/pops on a new computer:
 
OS Windows 7 64-bit -> MB Asus P8Z77-V (Realtek ALC892) -> SPDIF (coaxial or optic - no difference) -> Zero DAC
 
No problems with click/pops on a old computer:
 
OS Windows XP 32-bit -> MB Asus A8N-Sli (PCI) -> M-audio Revolution 5.1 -> SPDIF (coaxial) -> Zero DAC
 
No problems with click/pops on a new computer:
 
OS Windows 7 64-bit -> MB Asus P8Z77-V (Realtek ALC892) -> SPDIF (coaxial or optic - no difference) -> Edifier R2700
 
I'll try M-audio Revolution 5.1 -> Zero DAC with a new computer in the near future. I hope we find out who clicks / pops - Windows 7 or Realtek or Zero
 
 
Oct 26, 2012 at 1:47 PM Post #9,266 of 9,388
After removing Realtek HDA driver clicks / pops disappeared!
Microsoft Windows 7 default HDA driver only supports 44100/16 and 48000/16
confused.gif

 
Oct 27, 2012 at 5:45 AM Post #9,267 of 9,388
Quote:
It seems that something is heating more than is acceptable, if you're lucky you could locate it...

 
Hi..
 
So you mean that something is too hot to make clear sound?
 
what should i look after in the amp ? I hate that its not working popertly :frowning2:
 
I have tried it with a lot of sources, cd players, ps3, computers, with different opa amps, but it is the same on every source :-/ Different usb cables and different toslink cables, even tried it in a other house.
 
So i bought a new Dual BB627, it was quiet for about 6hours with that Amps (happy then :D), but now it popping almost all the time. It's sometimes quiet the first 10 minuets after it's turned on. But most often it crackle / popping just after turn on.
 
What is the problem? :)
 
Oct 27, 2012 at 1:28 PM Post #9,269 of 9,388
Quote:
It was just a wild guess...
From what I can tell it seems that head-amp is OK, and reciever is also OK. Problem could be DAC itself or buffer/filter behind DAC.

Yes. It seems ok for me too. It sounds like digital noise, the pop sounds..
 
I see pepole who modify their Zero, they mount bigger heat exchangers on the black 3 legs "things" in the dac :D
 
Amarok Example:

 
 
 
Should i do it? :)
 

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