Review: ZERO 24 BIT/192KHz DAC/Headphone Amp/Pre-Amp
Sep 9, 2009 at 1:54 PM Post #9,062 of 9,388
I believe there are two models available now one with USB DAC and the older one (Like I have) with just Optical and Coax Connectors for the DAC.
 
Sep 12, 2009 at 5:28 PM Post #9,063 of 9,388
Hi all,

I have a zero DAC which I use with a john shearne amp and usher s520 speakers. I enjoy the sound very much with headphones but I find it too bright with my speakers.

I did the capacitor snip mod a while ago before I bought these speakers and can't really remember how much of an effect it had. Does it significantly increase the treble output??

I know the opa627 is a very well regarded chip but is it considered bright? If so which alternatives would offer a smoother less bright sound to help tame the highs on my ushers?

Any help would be greatly appreciated!

thanks
 
Sep 13, 2009 at 5:38 AM Post #9,064 of 9,388
I found the cap snip mod affect the trebles a lot.
 
Sep 29, 2009 at 3:14 PM Post #9,067 of 9,388
Hello,

I'm experiencing very loud intermittent clipping ('pop' sound) when turning the volume knob on my upgraded C-2C, both with music playing and without.

I received my C-2C in mid-July and used it then with my HD650 (300 Ohm impedance, 103dB/mW sensitivity). I can't recall if I had this problem then. However, since pairing the amp with my AD2000 (40 Ohm impedance, 102dB/mW), the problem has become more distinct.

I emailed Kingwa, and this was his reply:

Quote:

Dear Low,
C2C upgrade version apply the 23 steps switch for volume control, while turn the switch, it will bread the current switch then close the new switch, that time will has a "click" sound from headphone, but I test by Denon D5K and HD650, these "click" sound not loud , I can clear to hear the "click" but can not let me scare.
If your C2C "click" is loud to scare you, I think maybe either this reason, 1, input signal has high DC offset. 2, or your headphone very high sensitive, 3, or the 23 switch fault, 4, turn the volume too slow at every steps.
If you have any problems, let me know please.
Kingwa


1) I currently have my C-2C paired with the Zero DAC. I tried running the C-2C straight out of my iMac, and while the clicking noise was audible enough (not soft; moderate volume), it was not nearly as loud as when paired with the Zero, which could produce a loud 'pop' noise. However, I'd add that the input signal from the Zero is much higher than that of the iMac (ie. I have to turn the volume knob higher when running out of the iMac to get the same volume).
2) I doubt this is the reason, as the AD2000 has a lower sensitivity than the HD650.
3) Not sure.
4) Doubt so. The clipping occurs regardless of the speed at which the volume knob is turned.

I'm guessing (1) is the most plausible reason, but I thought I'd check if anyone else is experiencing the same issue? Have my headphones been damaged in anyway? They still sound okay to me, for now. If it is my Zero, does it mean it's faulty? What exactly is/causes high DC offset anyway?

Thanks.
 
Oct 1, 2009 at 12:59 PM Post #9,068 of 9,388
I've had my Zero since around page 200 of this thread and have been enjoying it very much with my Denons (2000 model).

I'm in the market for 2.1 stereo speakers solely for music purposes (and some movie/tv use). I only have my laptop currently, which has a very mediocre audio output (quality and amplification). I was wondering whether it would be possible to use the Zero as the DAC and amp for normal computer speakers, or perhaps something even better? I would use a plug splitter to connect both the speakers and my phones at all times or just use a switch for this purpose.

Is this a viable idea? Does anyone have any experience with this?
Any recommendation welcome.
 
Oct 4, 2009 at 8:10 PM Post #9,073 of 9,388
how the heck do i setup the zero for 24bit/192Khz playback?

1. Is it necessary?
2. Is bitperfect even necessary with windows 7/vista?
3. What is the best way to go about bitpefect playback if needed

*edit* It even says in the manual that the USB chip pcm2704 only supports up to 16bit/48khz so 24 bit playback is only possible through optical or coaxial?
 
Oct 4, 2009 at 9:08 PM Post #9,074 of 9,388
Quote:

Originally Posted by junkimchi /img/forum/go_quote.gif
1. Is it necessary?


No, you'll never hear it. Even if you could, it would be with much higher quality gear. Quote:

Originally Posted by junkimchi /img/forum/go_quote.gif
2. Is bitperfect even necessary with windows 7/vista? Vista / 7


The necessity of bit perfect is up to you, again, you'll never hear the difference. That said, I do it. Quote:

Originally Posted by junkimchi /img/forum/go_quote.gif
3. What is the best way to go about bitpefect playback if needed.


The only SURE way I know is with Vista / 7. Use foobar2000 with the WASAPI plug in for playback. Disable all effects, and leave the volume bar alone. (You CAN adjust volume, but only 100% will be bit perfect) Using optical or coaxial, I would use on-board sound if you have it. This seems to be easiest. If you have a dedicated sound-card, you will need to research as to whether it will change the data stream or not. I've not been able to make it happen with any Creative products, for example, even with ASIO. I'm using an E-Mu for recording, but that won't do it either - I use my stock on-board sound to output to my DAC.

The simple and easiest test is to hook up a surround sound receiver to the output, and play a .wav or .flac file of a DTS recording. (That is, a lossless audio recording of the digital code stream. If there is any change to the audio file's 'bits' or signal, the receiver will not be able to decode it to DTS) If it's a bit perfect stream, the receiver will decode it, and you will hear whatever the DTS file is. if it isn't bit perfect, you will hear static, or nothing at all.
 

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