Sparky191
Headphoneus Supremus
- Joined
- Apr 17, 2005
- Posts
- 2,540
- Likes
- 18
... from a design standpoint this is actually pretty good, except in reality it doesn't work ...
I see a flaw in your logic.
... from a design standpoint this is actually pretty good, except in reality it doesn't work ...
Yes, absolutely. I don't even mind the flat cable if you wear it properly. I even wear it behind the ears. However, the controls hanging are annoying to say the least. That is the failing of the cable to me. You could buy the ue900 cable and solder it to the mh1 cable near the housing. That would give you a nice control cable that is designed a bit better. Otherwise, for an alternative you want the Sony MH750.
The same engineer, Sead, worked on them and compares them as being very similar to the mh1. Although, not as good they should sound similar with the changes he described being a bit darker and slightly less treble extension and details. But the controls are in the middle of the cable lower...
post #211
http://www.amazon.com/Sony-MH750-Stereo-Headset-Microphone/dp/B008MN8X7Y
... from a design standpoint this is actually pretty good, except in reality it doesn't work ...
I see a flaw in your logic.
Yes, absolutely. I don't even mind the flat cable if you wear it properly. I even wear it behind the ears. However, the controls hanging are annoying to say the least. That is the failing of the cable to me. You could buy the ue900 cable and solder it to the mh1 cable near the housing. That would give you a nice control cable that is designed a bit better. Otherwise, for an alternative you want the Sony MH750.
The same engineer, Sead, worked on them and compares them as being very similar to the mh1. Although, not as good they should sound similar with the changes he described being a bit darker and slightly less treble extension and details. But the controls are in the middle of the cable lower...
post #211
http://www.amazon.com/Sony-MH750-Stereo-Headset-Microphone/dp/B008MN8X7Y
Yes, absolutely. I don't even mind the flat cable if you wear it properly. I even wear it behind the ears. However, the controls hanging are annoying to say the least. That is the failing of the cable to me. You could buy the ue900 cable and solder it to the mh1 cable near the housing. That would give you a nice control cable that is designed a bit better. Otherwise, for an alternative you want the Sony MH750.
The same engineer, Sead, worked on them and compares them as being very similar to the mh1. Although, not as good they should sound similar with the changes he described being a bit darker and slightly less treble extension and details. But the controls are in the middle of the cable lower...
post #211
http://www.amazon.com/Sony-MH750-Stereo-Headset-Microphone/dp/B008MN8X7Y
Thanks for the tip but the reviews on http://www.amazon.co.uk/Sony-Ericsson-MH750-Headset-Stereo/dp/B007M0IXLY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1386539981&sr=8-1&keywords=sony+mh750 mention that it has an annoying cable that transmits vibrations and doesn't hang down properly, so despite being cheap enough I don't think I'd get on with these either I'm afraid.
I don't really want to double the cost of the MH1's by buying a replacement cable and I'd only make a bodge of replacing it anyway, once I found the time and motivation to try that is, so I'll have to keep looking.
Got my cable ready to go. Waiting for my neutrik connector in the mail. Should be here tomorrow. Then I'll probably grab some heatshrink locally, unless someone can (please) link some cheap heatshrink online somewhere. I hope to recable these puppies in the next week or so.
I did some measurements and test braiding/twisting to determine and cut my lengths. I'm going for something between most earphone cables (4ft) and the er4s (5ft) in length. About 4.5' total length I think. This ended up taking 4 wires of about 6 feet each. 4.5 (total length) + .5 to compensate for braiding/twisting (shouldn't even be that much) + 1 foot left for stripping, soldering, mistakes, etc.
Got my cable ready to go. Waiting for my neutrik connector in the mail. Should be here tomorrow. Then I'll probably grab some heatshrink locally, unless someone can (please) link some cheap heatshrink online somewhere. I hope to recable these puppies in the next week or so.
I did some measurements and test braiding/twisting to determine and cut my lengths. I'm going for something between most earphone cables (4ft) and the er4s (5ft) in length. About 4.5' total length I think. This ended up taking 4 wires of about 6 feet each. 4.5 (total length) + .5 to compensate for braiding/twisting (shouldn't even be that much) + 1 foot left for stripping, soldering, mistakes, etc.
I'm excited to see your work mate! I wish I have the skill to re-cable my MH1's...
Hey, i am new here i would like to know if there is somewhere a recabling tutorial or instructions i am not used at soldering but i wanna try recabling my mh1.
I saw an offer here where i live(greece) they had bulk mh1 for 8 euros or 11 $~~ so i buyed 2 pieces.
I am willing to try to recable one of them but i have some questions,like what happens to the mic & buttons can i remove them entirely and still converting it to ctia and recabling them?
I am a newbie,so sorry for my dumb questions.
Hey, i am new here i would like to know if there is somewhere a recabling tutorial or instructions i am not used at soldering but i wanna try recabling my mh1.
I saw an offer here where i live(greece) they had bulk mh1 for 8 euros or 11 $~~ so i buyed 2 pieces.
I am willing to try to recable one of them but i have some questions,like what happens to the mic & buttons can i remove them entirely and still converting it to ctia and recabling them?
I am a newbie,so sorry for my dumb questions.
I'll be making a tutorial when i fo mine shortly...
For CTIA versus OMTP, the difference is the MIC pin and the GND pin are swapped.
CTIA goes GND - MIC - R - L
OMTP goes MIC - GND - R - L
If you're removing the mic and buttons, you only have one single GND pin so you don't have to worry about it at all.
You would use a 3-pin TRS plug which goes:
GND - R - L
Which should work on any device.
Here is a diagram: http://www.simplecom.com.au/ebay/omtpvsctia.jpg
is there any way to make the remote work on an Apple device?