Re-Cable Sennheiser HD-555 PLEASE HELP ME!
Sep 8, 2010 at 4:47 PM Thread Starter Post #1 of 13

jschristian44

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I want to recable my HD-555 but don't really know where to start.  Here is my shopping list so far:
 
-New soldering iron with Desoldering wick and pump
-Dual Helping hands with magnifier
-Techflex 1/4" Tubing
-Neutrik 1/8" Plug
-Heat Shrink wraps
-40' Silver Teflon Wire
 
Now, I've done tons of research here on Head-Fi as well as any other place from Google, but either people have pictures with not good instructions, or good instructions with no pictures.  From all the information I've gathered, it really doesn't help me much and I have like 15 pages bookmarked.
 
Here is what I want to do...
-Put new wiring from the speaker drivers themselves to the new wiring for the plug
 
That is basically the only thing I need help with, the neutrik plug seems fairly easy and I got good sites for doing that, but when it comes to wiring up the new wire to the insides, where the 4-pin jumper cable thing is, I have no clue how to wire to that.  As well as, wiring new wires to the speaker drivers.   I can desolder the wires from the speakers that is already there, but then where does that wire go to then?  I'd like to bypass that little PCB board and just have the speaker driver cables run right into the new wiring from the headphones.  I know someone has knowledge on here to do this so can you please help me?  I've done a very nice detailed instruction for the soundstage mod, so someone please help me out!
 
Sep 8, 2010 at 5:12 PM Post #2 of 13
Here to help from the other thread :p
 
The thing about the HD 5X5s is that they have a one-sided cable, so the wire goes directly to the driver on one side, then goes around the headband. The thing is that this wire inside the cups is really thin and crappy... thus, there is only one solution: you must drill a hole in the bottom of your other cup so you can have a wire coming in both sides, soldered directly to the drivers. Then they'd obviously meet at a Y-splitter. You could try feeding a wire through the headband, but I don't know if there are any wires both good and thin enough to do an adequate job. I'm guessing that you haven't decided what cable to go for yet, hence the lack of that from your shopping list. You might want to look into silver cable,as you can actually get it for non-ridiculous prices if you look for it. Other than that I'm not really a cable person, so not much I can help with.
 
Not to be negative, but have you considered how worthwhile a recable is? What source equipment do you have? Keep in mind that the HD 5X5, even modded, is still only really upper-mid-fi.  Recables are the something you should only really put a lot of time and money into if you can't improve other parts of your rig easily. However, it's clear that you really love these cans, and so I can understand you wanting to get the absolute best out of them.
 
Sorry I can't give more advice on the cables. If you decide to go ahead with it, good luck!
 
Sep 8, 2010 at 5:18 PM Post #3 of 13
What Cable are you planning on? If you've got your hands on some good Single Core wire that can be used by taking 4 strands(2 ground, 1 each for signal) into the plug and splitting them towards the drivers, then the process should not be too hard.
 
you might want to open up your headband and inspect the wires that run from the PCB to the right side Driver. Try to measure up how much wire you need in order to get to the right, and add another 3-4 cm for slack at both ends. cut your cable into 2 sets, one longer for the right side and one shorter for the left. thread the wires into the tube and finish your connector, then pass the long set of wires through the band and solder them. Finish with the left driver. Drop some hot-melt glue over the entry point of the cable and you're done.
 
However, if you're new to Soldering work, like Me, I would recommend that you stay away from the drivers. Enthusiastic soldering on the driver contacts usually leads to irreversible damage to the delicate coil inside. This is what I did to my 5 year old HD201's. It would be a safer bet if you kept the PCB and soldered the new cable on it directly, rather than run via a connector. I don't know the reason you are going for the recable, but if it's just a damaged plug, just do the plug...
 
EDIT - the default color coding is White/Black for Ground, Red for right and Blue for left(AFAIK-I MAY be Wrong). The connector makes it a little obscured to see what contact each wire meets but hey, you've got a magnifying glass for that!!
 
Sep 8, 2010 at 5:35 PM Post #4 of 13
i think the wiring is this:
 
Ok, I've taken the cable apart and found that this is the wiring scheme for the HD555:

Right Channel: Red Wire
Left Channel: White Wire
Common Ground: Blue & Black Wires
 
but anyways, yeah i am not sure how i want to do this if i do it.  it seems no one knows exactly what to do and i don't want to ruin my phones being a beginner solderer.  although people said it isn't that hard.  the main thing i am concerned about is the drivers themselves.  they seem very delicate.  originally i want to just make the end a 1/8" plug instead of the huge 1/4" plug and that part seems very easy.  but then i saw this thread on how nice new wiring sounds and it made me want to do it.  if i did it, it would be a dual entry system so i wouldn't have to run through the headband.  and ive updated the wiring from the ebay site i already got the wiring from.  i already purchased the wiring, but it was only 8 dollars.  i havent purchased the rest because i want to see where i stand.  even if i don't do it, i could save the wiring in case it does break or something.  it's what everyone recommended here on head-fi, even the seller navships has some great stuff on audio if you check out his store.  but yeah keep the help coming.  it still seems people are mixed.  some high end audio people say its not worth it on these phones, but then some n00bs like me did it, and are estatic with the results.  probably the same way with the soundstage mod.  and you know first hand now what that mod can do.  if i did the wiring it'd probably make it even better.  thanks again for the help and anyone else is welcome with their help/opinions.  i will take photos once i get my set apart to see what i am talking about.  it doesn't seem that hard at all, just figuring out how to desolder the wiring that is there as well as connect the new wiring inside the earpeice is the hardest part.
 
Sep 8, 2010 at 6:10 PM Post #6 of 13
dxps, i somewhat understand your instructions.  i have a question.  if i just cut off like an inch left of the driver wiring, could i just solder new wire to the existing wire and then to the pcb board?  would this sound just as good or would i have to take out all that old wiring?  same thing with the headphone cord itself.  if i just cut underneath the hole where it goes in the cup and attach my new wiring will it make a difference or do i gotta replace everything completely.  i fear i have to replace everything to make it sound better.  by the way this is mainly going to be attached to my computer and a dvd player maybe.  i dont really have any other source.  do you think i should leave it alone as the gains wont be as impressive if i was attaching to say a home theatre or guitar amp?
 
Sep 8, 2010 at 8:23 PM Post #7 of 13
I'd go ahead and replace the entire thing. I don't know about it making a difference in sound, but you want as few mechanical joints as possible for reliability. Don't introduce an unecessary point of failure.

And since you're buying an iron, why don't you go ahead and build a CMoy, too? You don't have an amp yet, and the CMoy is a gateway to some very cool stuff.
 
Sep 8, 2010 at 8:34 PM Post #8 of 13
well before i try this, i want some good instructions on how to do it.  there is like 32 gauge wiring from each speaker wire connected to a little pcb board which is somehow connected to like 4pin jumpers that is connected to the long cord of 10 feet.  i wanted to know if i desolder those thin wires, then connect new wires to the drivers and connect those wires to the long cord signal/ground wires if that would be the best way.  of course ill make it dual entry.  id still like some detailed pics and information on recabling everything.  i was gonna try a cmoy but backed out, i think it looked too hard or someone said i dont need an amp for these phones.
 
Sep 9, 2010 at 1:48 AM Post #9 of 13
Jchristian, for any improvement to manifest in the SQ, you'll have to replace the wiring end-to end,and leave none of the old wiring. That includes the PCB, the right channel wires and the connector. And as Uncle Erik mentioned, you should have the fewest number of joints in the signal path. All i'm saying is, get a little practice with soldering before you do the phones, and then do the wiring like i explained.
And you don't have to convert to dual entry with the method i described...
 
Sep 9, 2010 at 2:02 AM Post #10 of 13
yes i know i should practice before i do this, but i actually do want dual entry, i dont like the single cord, it makes it feel like its all on that side.  can i just solder the wires right to the drivers and dismiss the pcb and those 4 little pin jumpers?  it seems you know how to do this mod and if you could take pictures and do a step by step for me id really really appreciate it.  ive done a whole days worth of research on it, and im still weary of what to do with the jumpers and signals.  like i said i do want dual entry.  as for the 1/8" connector, that part seems really easy and i can do that.  as for the right/left channel wires, each one has a signal/ground going to the driver, i understand that.  my main thing is, can i run the signal/ground wires that are going to be like 7 feet long attached to the end connector, right into the drivers themselves and dismiss the pcb board and those little jumpers?  if i can do this, all i would have to do is de-solder those joints on the drivers themselves, and then resolder new joints from the wires right to the drivers.  hopefully you can understand what im trying to say.  but of course i will practice before i tackle this project.  thank you!
 
Sep 9, 2010 at 1:25 PM Post #11 of 13
here is what i ordered today
1 [NTP3RC] Neutrik NTP3RC 3.5mm Stereo Right Angle Mini Plug Nickel/Nickel @$2.69/ea = $2.69
14 [TF-NMN025BK] Techflex NMN0.25BK Nylon Multifilament 1/4 Inch Cable Sleeve (Per Foot) @$0.24/ea = $3.36
1 [SHT14BK-4] Heat Shrink Tubing 1/4in. Black- 4ft @$2.32/ea = $2.32
1 [2000-1] Markertek Catalog - Latest Edition @$0.00/ea = $0.00
2 [SHT116BK-4] Heat Shrink Tubing 1/16inch Black 4 Foot @$0.88/ea = $1.76
 
Sep 9, 2010 at 6:23 PM Post #12 of 13


Quote:
yes i know i should practice before i do this, but i actually do want dual entry, i dont like the single cord, it makes it feel like its all on that side.  can i just solder the wires right to the drivers and dismiss the pcb and those 4 little pin jumpers?  it seems you know how to do this mod and if you could take pictures and do a step by step for me id really really appreciate it.  ive done a whole days worth of research on it, and im still weary of what to do with the jumpers and signals.  like i said i do want dual entry.  as for the 1/8" connector, that part seems really easy and i can do that.  as for the right/left channel wires, each one has a signal/ground going to the driver, i understand that.  my main thing is, can i run the signal/ground wires that are going to be like 7 feet long attached to the end connector, right into the drivers themselves and dismiss the pcb board and those little jumpers?  if i can do this, all i would have to do is de-solder those joints on the drivers themselves, and then resolder new joints from the wires right to the drivers.  hopefully you can understand what im trying to say.  but of course i will practice before i tackle this project.  thank you!

 
Yes, you can directly solder the new wire into the driver contacts. you can bypass the PCB, and all of that muck too. just be careful. especially when drilling a new hole into your right driver for the wire.
 
 
Sep 9, 2010 at 6:30 PM Post #13 of 13
yeah i thought that was a given to be careful when drilling, but i know what you mean.  the only problem im having right now is getting the thin wire out from the headband.  i cant get the headband to come apart.  if i just leave that wire in there, will that cause interference with my new wires or not?  thanks!
 

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