Kiats
Headphoneus Supremus
All this talk about amps does bring up something that I will share here. I do find that the SAEQ Hyperion Ge (which is done by Dragan and team who produce the HSA-1C) to be a great amp for the RAAL HPs. It has a lush rich sound signature due to its use of germanium transistors. If y’all have an opportunity to try it out, perhaps give it a listen with the TI-1b and see what you think. It incidentally doubles up as a speaker amp as well. It is superb. But perhaps not as well know. @Aleksandar R. does use it as well.
If the opportunity arises, I'd love to try the Raal + TI-1b with the amps being championed here. But I'd be surprised if they beat the speaker taps of the pass labs amp.
I have a CODA #16 amp which is like a PASS Labs amp, some would say better. The first 100 watts in super clean Class A and massive power. The guys at CODA and PASS worked together at Threshold before they started their own companies.If the opportunity arises, I'd love to try the Raal + TI-1b with the amps being championed here. But I'd be surprised if they beat the speaker taps of the pass labs amp.
The VM-1a is better than the CODA #16 with the TI-1b amp. The very powerful amps like the CODA and KRELL DUO XD that I used with the SR1a are not that relevant with the new TI-1b interface box. A low watt amp like the First Watt amps from Nelson Pass are more relevant now. Which is why I have been using the very clean Class A Schitt Aegir amp (20 watts) with the TI-1b. I was going to get a FIrst Watt amp but after trying the Aegir I saw no need.
Fwiw, I think it's the best piece of Hi-fi I bought, after the Rossini and clock combo. It everything really does sound the best i've heard it. In class A it sounds slightly cleaner than any other amp, bar the HPA4, which has other issues and is just not enjoyable. In class A+ it's just a level beyond everything. And with the DCA headphones especially it even leaves the HE1 in the dust. Issue I have with the CA-1A is that it sounds a bit too "electrostatic-y" in A+ Servo (no lack of bass, but just too "ethereal" for my tastes, and a bit thin overall). This is the only headphone where I prefer class A, but then there is a bit of tradeoff in resolution, and I feel like I end up getting more from the Expanse with servo overall.What do you think of the Zahl? I've been very skeptical of it, and I hate the limited number of units a year strategy. What other headphones are you driving it with?
I also preferred the ca-1a to the dca stuff off the Oor, but they were clearly current limited compared to the HM1. The Ca-1a just sounds so different on them, it's hard to draw a conclusion. I will say that the 16ohm input sounds better on the HM1, while the 32ohm sounds better on the Oor.The only HP I don't ever drive off the Zahl is the CA-1a, as it's just a lot better off the VM1a.
If I run it off the 32 Ohm input, it's quite fantastic. Certainly much better than your Coda #16.I have a CODA #16 amp which is like a PASS Labs amp, some would say better. The first 100 watts in super clean Class A and massive power. The guys at CODA and PASS worked together at Threshold before they started their own companies.
The VM-1a is better than the CODA #16 with the TI-1b amp. The very powerful amps like the CODA and KRELL DUO XD that I used with the SR1a are not that relevant with the new TI-1b interface box. A low watt amp like the First Watt amps from Nelson Pass are more relevant now. Which is why I have been using the very clean Class A Schitt Aegir amp (20 watts) with the TI-1b. I was going to get a FIrst Watt amp but after trying the Aegir I saw no need.
gghirardi
Head-Fier
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Dear all,
I hear from someone that the TI-1a and TI-1b would be different and the TI-1b would sound better. I had move from the assumption that the two interfaces were identical other than in their aesthetics. Can anyone comment on this? Thanks
I hear from someone that the TI-1a and TI-1b would be different and the TI-1b would sound better. I had move from the assumption that the two interfaces were identical other than in their aesthetics. Can anyone comment on this? Thanks
My understanding (though I could be wrong) is that the TI-1a and TI-1b are identical internally and sound the same. The TI-1a just used the same case as the old resistor speaker interface, while the TI-1b uses the new purpose-built polycarbonate case. The TI-1c, on the other hand, is internally different and meant for a different class of amps.Dear all,
I hear from someone that the TI-1a and TI-1b would be different and the TI-1b would sound better. I had move from the assumption that the two interfaces were identical other than in their aesthetics. Can anyone comment on this? Thanks
Aleksandar R.
Sponsor: RAAL 1995
All correct!My understanding (though I could be wrong) is that the TI-1a and TI-1b are identical internally and sound the same. The TI-1a just used the same case as the old resistor speaker interface, while the TI-1b uses the new purpose-built polycarbonate case. The TI-1c, on the other hand, is internally different and meant for a different class of amps.
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Well, my VM-1a stopped working on the second day of use. It won't even turn on
Is this a fuse issue, or something else?
What fuse do I need to get @Aleksandar R. ?
Is this a fuse issue, or something else?
What fuse do I need to get @Aleksandar R. ?
Last edited:
Aleksandar R.
Sponsor: RAAL 1995
3.15 A, Slow-blow, not a 1/4" body, but 5x20mm body.
What was the point of sale?
What was the point of sale?
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Did you buy this one?
https://www.usaudiomart.com/details/650028437-raal-requisite-vm-1a/
Half of me is happy someone else got it so I don't spend $4500, half of me is sad it got snagged.
https://www.usaudiomart.com/details/650028437-raal-requisite-vm-1a/
Half of me is happy someone else got it so I don't spend $4500, half of me is sad it got snagged.
I bought it from my dealer.3.15 A, Slow-blow, not a 1/4" body, but 5x20mm body.
What was the point of sale?
I'll look into that fuse. Thanks! It's disappointing that it blew so early on.
That sucks! Sorry, man. Must be just bad luck; mine has been trouble-free since I got it.Well, my VM-1a stopped working on the second day of use. It won't even turn on
Is this a fuse issue, or something else?
What fuse do I need to get @Aleksandar R. ?
Do type of fuses matter? There are so many options. I know Synergistic Energy has fancy fuses you can buy. I just want something that works, I guess
Aleksandar R.
Sponsor: RAAL 1995
There should be a spare fuse inside the fuse-drawer, so take it out and you might be all set.I bought it from my dealer.
I'll look into that fuse. Thanks! It's disappointing that it blew so early on.
It could happen that after testing at Solaja Audio, the fuse for EU voltage remained in the fuse socket/drawer, which is 1.6A, not 3.15...
But who knows, check the drawer, shown here in the manual on Page 5, #2:
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