Kiats
Headphoneus Supremus
All this talk about amps does bring up something that I will share here. I do find that the SAEQ Hyperion Ge (which is done by Dragan and team who produce the HSA-1C) to be a great amp for the RAAL HPs. It has a lush rich sound signature due to its use of germanium transistors. If y’all have an opportunity to try it out, perhaps give it a listen with the TI-1b and see what you think. It incidentally doubles up as a speaker amp as well. It is superb. But perhaps not as well know. @Aleksandar R. does use it as well. 
If the opportunity arises, I'd love to try the Raal + TI-1b with the amps being championed here. But I'd be surprised if they beat the speaker taps of the pass labs amp.
I have a CODA #16 amp which is like a PASS Labs amp, some would say better. The first 100 watts in super clean Class A and massive power. The guys at CODA and PASS worked together at Threshold before they started their own companies.
The VM-1a is better than the CODA #16 with the TI-1b amp. The very powerful amps like the CODA and KRELL DUO XD that I used with the SR1a are not that relevant with the new TI-1b interface box. A low watt amp like the First Watt amps from Nelson Pass are more relevant now. Which is why I have been using the very clean Class A Schitt Aegir amp (20 watts) with the TI-1b. I was going to get a FIrst Watt amp but after trying the Aegir I saw no need.
Fwiw, I think it's the best piece of Hi-fi I bought, after the Rossini and clock combo. It everything really does sound the best i've heard it. In class A it sounds slightly cleaner than any other amp, bar the HPA4, which has other issues and is just not enjoyable. In class A+ it's just a level beyond everything. And with the DCA headphones especially it even leaves the HE1 in the dust. Issue I have with the CA-1A is that it sounds a bit too "electrostatic-y" in A+ Servo (no lack of bass, but just too "ethereal" for my tastes, and a bit thin overall). This is the only headphone where I prefer class A, but then there is a bit of tradeoff in resolution, and I feel like I end up getting more from the Expanse with servo overall.
I also preferred the ca-1a to the dca stuff off the Oor, but they were clearly current limited compared to the HM1. The Ca-1a just sounds so different on them, it's hard to draw a conclusion. I will say that the 16ohm input sounds better on the HM1, while the 32ohm sounds better on the Oor.
If I run it off the 32 Ohm input, it's quite fantastic. Certainly much better than your Coda #16.
gghirardi
New Head-Fier
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Dear all,
I hear from someone that the TI-1a and TI-1b would be different and the TI-1b would sound better. I had move from the assumption that the two interfaces were identical other than in their aesthetics. Can anyone comment on this? Thanks
I hear from someone that the TI-1a and TI-1b would be different and the TI-1b would sound better. I had move from the assumption that the two interfaces were identical other than in their aesthetics. Can anyone comment on this? Thanks
My understanding (though I could be wrong) is that the TI-1a and TI-1b are identical internally and sound the same. The TI-1a just used the same case as the old resistor speaker interface, while the TI-1b uses the new purpose-built polycarbonate case. The TI-1c, on the other hand, is internally different and meant for a different class of amps.
Well, my VM-1a stopped working on the second day of use. It won't even turn on 
Is this a fuse issue, or something else?
What fuse do I need to get @Aleksandar R. ?
Is this a fuse issue, or something else?
What fuse do I need to get @Aleksandar R. ?
Last edited:
Aleksandar R.
Sponsor: RAAL 1995
3.15 A, Slow-blow, not a 1/4" body, but 5x20mm body.
What was the point of sale?
What was the point of sale?
Did you buy this one?
https://www.usaudiomart.com/details/650028437-raal-requisite-vm-1a/
Half of me is happy someone else got it so I don't spend $4500, half of me is sad it got snagged.
https://www.usaudiomart.com/details/650028437-raal-requisite-vm-1a/
Half of me is happy someone else got it so I don't spend $4500, half of me is sad it got snagged.
I bought it from my dealer.
I'll look into that fuse. Thanks! It's disappointing that it blew so early on.
That sucks! Sorry, man. Must be just bad luck; mine has been trouble-free since I got it.Well, my VM-1a stopped working on the second day of use. It won't even turn on
Is this a fuse issue, or something else?
What fuse do I need to get @Aleksandar R. ?
Do type of fuses matter? There are so many options. I know Synergistic Energy has fancy fuses you can buy. I just want something that works, I guess
Aleksandar R.
Sponsor: RAAL 1995
There should be a spare fuse inside the fuse-drawer, so take it out and you might be all set.
It could happen that after testing at Solaja Audio, the fuse for EU voltage remained in the fuse socket/drawer, which is 1.6A, not 3.15...
But who knows, check the drawer, shown here in the manual on Page 5, #2:
