Post pics of your builds....
Dec 5, 2008 at 5:37 AM Post #3,872 of 9,811
I just realized I've never posted on this thread. Since it's the only project I've taken pictures of, here's a pic of the Millet Hybrid Starving Student amp I built recently.

20081118-DSC_1178.jpg
 
Dec 5, 2008 at 9:00 AM Post #3,873 of 9,811
I found a thread for a Cmoy2 on SGheadphones it was the subject of a lot of discussion, and had some very favourable comments. Basically a A47 with a buffered ground, I found the schematic, made up a board and gave it a try. I used 2x OPA2132PA for the audio and a NE5534 for the buffered ground, (I only had OPA134 or the NE5534 in single op amps) I may experiment but it sounds superb at the moment. I think I'll keep this one
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Dec 5, 2008 at 10:47 AM Post #3,874 of 9,811
i think the Millett SS that various head-fiers are building look stunning.
 
Dec 5, 2008 at 11:11 AM Post #3,875 of 9,811
my balanced Bijou. took the better part of 3 months to finish. this is the most musically satisfying hi-fi i've ever experienced, and well worth the effort. a really fun and challenging build.

nothing real $$$ re: parts selection. just wanky wire from Oyaide for signal wiring, some Sonicaps here and there, and homebrewed ground-shunt attenuators with: Electroswitch D9 23 pos rotary switches, Kimber wire, Vishay RN60D for ground-shunt resistors, and KOA Speer SPR2 (aka Kiwame) for I/O resistors.

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Dec 6, 2008 at 12:15 AM Post #3,879 of 9,811
Quote:

Originally Posted by nsx_23 /img/forum/go_quote.gif
One quick question: How do I mount LEDs onto the tin?


there used to be things called 'clip-lites' that either fit over the led or around it, like a ring.

alternately, some kind of rubber grommet. those are easy to find and cheap. leds just press-fit inside them if you pick the right led and right 'donut' size
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Dec 6, 2008 at 12:17 AM Post #3,880 of 9,811
Quote:

Originally Posted by Captain Ødegård /img/forum/go_quote.gif
touchcase2.jpg



I'm not sure I'd spend effort copying a corporate logo
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what purpose is that?

you did a nice job; but I'm curious why someone would care about spending actual effort on what corporations use for advertising, ie, logos?

is that apple icon THAT much of an 'art' symbol? boggle...
 
Dec 6, 2008 at 12:23 AM Post #3,881 of 9,811
Quote:

Originally Posted by linuxworks /img/forum/go_quote.gif
there used to be things called 'clip-lites' that either fit over the led or around it, like a ring.

alternately, some kind of rubber grommet. those are easy to find and cheap. leds just press-fit inside them if you pick the right led and right 'donut' size
wink.gif



I like to just drill a 1mm hole through the panel, create a 2.8mm blind hole from the back, and just press-fit the LEDs, and perhaps tack it down with a a small dab of glue or epoxy if it's too loose.

On a thinner panel where you can't drill blind holes, I would just drill a 2mm hole, and just bend the LED leads so they align in place.
 
Dec 6, 2008 at 12:34 AM Post #3,882 of 9,811
I use clips from Jaycars (HP1102) or a blob of hot glue. Well done with the first cases, I find if you leave the washer off the switch they close better.
 
Dec 6, 2008 at 12:44 AM Post #3,883 of 9,811
Yep, I had quiet a few leftover washers and other bits and pieces left over after casing....

I had actually stuffed up the input/output socket holes when trying to case the PCB build, hence a bit of tape with white out over it to hide the mistakes.
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Hmm, looks like I'll need a small drill for the LEDs. I've been using a plier punch so far for the pots and sockets....

Now I need a new project. I've caught the DIY bug quiet badly. As much as I'd love to build a starving student, thats probably a bit off limits for me right now. Fred_fred2004, where did you get the PCB for the CMOY2? I'm reading SGheadphones atm, and can't seem to find anything.

Perhaps mini3 or Pimeta? I'm worried about burning through a million op-amps with the mini3 though............
 
Dec 6, 2008 at 1:08 AM Post #3,884 of 9,811
If you use the jaycar clips the paper punch hole is the perfect size so you won't need a drill.
The Cmoy2 board is home made using the good old toner transfer. I found the schematic and worked from there
 

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