Post pics of your builds....
Feb 15, 2011 at 11:16 PM Post #7,786 of 9,811
The Apocalypse is nigh - I am building (little) speakers. Happened onto a small desktop tube amp, that has crap for speakers... so, building a Martello enclosure with Fountek FR88EX 3" drivers.
 

 
Feb 16, 2011 at 8:16 AM Post #7,787 of 9,811
Hi there,
 
I usually don't post much, but being proud of finishing a project for once got the better of me. 
wink.gif

 
My sort-of-clean looking CTH:

 
Specs:
Alps rk27 pot (I mounted some components on the bottom of the board to make space for it)
Switchcraft rca's
Nichicon caps (Muse ES, FG, KZ, etc.) and Panasonic FM for the heater supply
Sprague Vitamin-Q coupling caps
Vishay RN55 resistors
Gold plated ceramic tube socket
Hammond 1255K1202 enclosure (the smallest one that will fit)
1.5A 24VAC supply
 
Ok, more pics:


 
Runeight/Alex: thank you for designing this little gem.
 
Cheers!
 
Feb 16, 2011 at 9:31 AM Post #7,788 of 9,811
Quote:
I usually don't post much, but being proud of finishing a project for once got the better of me. 
wink.gif

 
Wow.  You really packed the goodies in there, didn't think RK27 was possible in the small/std case (or I would have tried it myself:)   Like the looks too.
 
BTW its known, but if anyone wants black grommets/bushings for their tube holes something like this works (e.g. Mouser, see its datasheet for sizes):
http://www.keyelco.com/pdfs/M55p120.pdf
but not sure it'd fly w/big C4s like those VitQs, and your hexagon cutout is a nice way to go too.
 
Feb 16, 2011 at 4:28 PM Post #7,789 of 9,811
Quote:
Wow.  You really packed the goodies in there, didn't think RK27 was possible in the small/std case (or I would have tried it myself:)   Like the looks too.

 
I'll take that as a compliment from the original CTH builder, it is indeed a little cramped and not-so-clean-looking on the inside. 
wink_face.gif

 
 
Quote:
BTW its known, but if anyone wants black grommets/bushings for their tube holes something like this works (e.g. Mouser, see its datasheet for sizes):
http://www.keyelco.com/pdfs/M55p120.pdf
but not sure it'd fly w/big C4s like those VitQs, and your hexagon cutout is a nice way to go too.

 
The top does need more work. I think a ring around the tube would fit, mounting it on the metal mesh might be a problem. But I like the look of the mesh and it's great for ventilation. (And free from the surplus bin of the local metal store.. 
smile_phones.gif
)
 
One more pic in the dark:
 

 
Cheers!
 
Feb 16, 2011 at 8:36 PM Post #7,790 of 9,811
Here's the "EHHA I" I just finished.
 
MOSFET build, 2-channel. 
160mA quiescent current
S22 power supply
DC heater supply
99 step relay attenuator and 4 input switch.
 
I intend to remove some of the front panel lettering at a later date.
 



 
Feb 17, 2011 at 1:20 AM Post #7,792 of 9,811
Nice build Holland. Did you use Kapton teflon wire for the signals? I've tried it a couple times but it didn't hold up to the stresses from modding.
 
Feb 17, 2011 at 1:38 AM Post #7,793 of 9,811
Thanks Chris & balderon.  Yes, I used Kapton shielded 2 conductor wire.  I find it works well if it's reinforced at joints, so I tend to use it for interior signal wire.  As you can see, I like to go vertically up, away from everything else, for signal.  The stiff Kapton wire helps there, and doesn't need any reinforcing tie downs.  The shielded wire can bend and it will hold.  I put a fair amount of solder on the shield when connecting to the jack, and it's really stiff.  That holds it in place so it won't break the tips off the tinned cable.
 
I did the same on the e12.  I soldered the wire to the pins and tied the shields together with a large bead of solder.  It won't move or bend at all.
 
I used unshielded Kapton from the headphone jack return, to the PSU.  I needed wire, and I don't like that wire too much, so I tend to use it when I need long runs that won't be moved, as it'll break the tinned leads really quick.
 
I probably won't buy anymore once my stash runs out.  I'd stick with regular teflon jacketed SPC with lots of twists to stiffen it.  Unfortunately, I bought about 500 feet of the Kapton wire a few years ago, and I have about 250 feet left.
 
Feb 18, 2011 at 12:02 AM Post #7,794 of 9,811
Finished speakers - still debating a filter and cavity stuffing with poly-fil, but now for some breakin.


 
Feb 18, 2011 at 12:16 PM Post #7,797 of 9,811
@pabbi1.  Nice!  Are you going to veneer the sides and back?
 
@Lil Knight.  Slick!  Where's the yellow...can't be a Ferrari without yellow and red.  Change the LED to yellow? :)  What material is that panel, and where'd you get it?  It looks slick, but curious if it's as easy to work as aluminum/plastic and not tricky like carbon fiber.  Or is it just the powdercoating?  If so, it must have cost a pretty penny for that weave-like pattern.
 
Feb 18, 2011 at 6:54 PM Post #7,798 of 9,811
Nope - 5 coats of tung oil, and I'm done. Now struggling with filter and poly-fil tweaks.
 
Feb 18, 2011 at 8:08 PM Post #7,800 of 9,811


Quote:
@Lil Knight.  Slick!  Where's the yellow...can't be a Ferrari without yellow and red.  Change the LED to yellow? :)  What material is that panel, and where'd you get it?  It looks slick, but curious if it's as easy to work as aluminum/plastic and not tricky like carbon fiber.  Or is it just the powdercoating?  If so, it must have cost a pretty penny for that weave-like pattern.

The panel is just plastic. The case is a standard ABS one that pcx has on sale. Here's what it originally was:
 

 
The carbon-fiber is actually just a transparent sticker. I applied it on the panels after powdercoating them, and then another clear, glossy layer to protect the carbon-fiber. Really simple and doesn't cost anything.
 

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